As you would expect, Mercury also produces high-end transformers for hi-fi. Whether you are building, restoring or repairing you’ll want to talk to us about obtaining the best possible sound-quality and performance from your system. In addition to ToneClone and Axiom brand variations, Mercury’s M.A.G.I.C. series represent the epitome of transformer technology for hi-fi amps. For the consummate audiophile M.A.G.I.C. are the ultimate in high fidelity transformer designs. Mercury also OEMs transformers for many of the most award-winning hi-fi amps available.

MILPITAS, CA, UNITED STATES, October 27, 2025 — Quality Transformer & Electronics (QT&E), a family-owned leader in precision transformer manufacturing, today announced its acquisition of Mercury Magnetics, a renowned maker of high-performance audio transformers for tube amplifiers used by top artists, studios, and builders around the world.

The acquisition brings together two long-standing American manufacturers celebrated for quality craftsmanship, innovation, and integrity. Since 1954, Mercury Magnetics has been hand-building audio transformers that elevate the role of transformers in shaping sound and tone for both boutique and large-scale amplifier makers.

“From the beginning, our goal has been to preserve Mercury’s heritage and the incredible audio expertise that Sergio Hamernik and his team have built over decades,” said Adam Clouse, CEO of Quality Transformer & Electronics. “Both QT&E and Mercury are family-owned, USA-based companies that share the same philosophy—craftsmanship first. This partnership allows us to expand capacity and capability while keeping the spirit and quality that musicians and manufacturers trust.”

Under the new structure, Sergio Hamernik, CEO of Mercury Magnetics, will continue to serve as Engineering and Technical Advisor, ensuring continuity and quality in Mercury’s audio product line.

“I couldn’t have imagined a better home for Mercury,” said Sergio Hamernik, CEO of Mercury Magnetics. “For more than 70 years, our mission has been to make transformers that inspire sound—helping tube amplifiers reach their peak tone and performance. Quality Transformer & Electronics shares our values and our commitment to American manufacturing. I hand-picked them to carry Mercury’s torch forward, and I know our legacy is in good hands.”

Mercury Magnetics will continue to operate and manufacture under the Mercury Magnetics name as its own division within Quality Transformer & Electronics. The company will remain at its Canoga Park, California facility, with no disruption to production or service. Its dedicated team, equipment, and operations remain in place—ensuring that customers, artists, and audio professionals won’t miss a beat during the transition.

Founded in 1964, Quality Transformer & Electronics has over six decades of experience designing and manufacturing precision magnetic components for industrial, aerospace, medical, and power applications. The integration of Mercury Magnetics strengthens QT&E’s presence in the pro audio and musical instrument markets while ensuring Mercury’s tone-shaping expertise continues to reach global artists and builders.

Both companies will remain proudly Made in the USA, continuing their shared commitment to excellence in design, engineering, and manufacturing.

About Mercury Magnetics
Founded in 1954, Mercury Magnetics has earned a global reputation for building high-performance audio transformers that define the tone of legendary amplifiers. The company’s products are used by leading amplifier brands and artists worldwide, delivering the precise sound, feel, and dynamics that define true tube tone.

About Quality Transformer & Electronics (QT&E)

Founded in 1964, Quality Transformer & Electronics is a family-owned manufacturer of custom transformers and magnetic components serving the industrial, aerospace, medical, and energy markets. Based in the United States, QT&E combines engineering excellence with a deep commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and customer service.

Bryan Wiens
Mercury Magnetics
+1 818-998-7791
office@mercurymagnetics.com
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One of the common questions we receive here is, “How can I get my (fill in the blank with your favorite brand name) reissue amplifier to sound like the original?” Often times the question will contain additional information of what had been done already. “I’ve replaced the preamp and power tubes and gotten it biased, but it still sounds cold and brittle….”

My usual answer involves examining the guitarist’s rig by taking a “system” approach when looking for a particular tone. Often too much weight (i.e. blame!) is put on the amplifier, perhaps because it is the most electronically complex item in a typical signal chain. Countless times I’ve personally played with changes to an amplifier, whether modifying it, changing the tubes, etc. and still had poor results in overall tone! Now if you’ve got the wrong pickup or speakers for your needs, then obviously no change to an amp is going to help all that much….

But presuming all other areas of your guitar rig/system are covered, then let’s go back to the amp itself and talk about a particular upgrade that hasn’t gotten the attention it has deserved: the output transformer. In fact, dare I say that in many cases — for example a reissue amplifier — a change to a higher-quality output transformer will have a greater impact on improving the overall tone than playing with different brands of tubes. Essentially, if you’ve got the best tubes, or the worst tubes, but if your output transformer is a low-grade model, your tone will suffer no matter what you do.

“What the heck is the output transformer?,” you may ask. Well in layman’s terms, it’s the final connection in your tube amplifier that takes the signal from the tubes and transforms them into impedances and power suitable for your speakers. In further layman’s terms, it’s one of the big “metal blocks” that is attached to a typical tube amplifier’s chassis and is the connection link between your tubes and speakers. Most commonly, there are two large transformers in an amp — The other besides the output transformer is called the power transformer — that is the one that is responsible for taking the wall current and transforming it into the DC power used by your amplifier. While the power transformer is directly responsible for areas like supplying exactly how much voltage goes to your tubes and therefore can affect the response or “feel” of the amplifier, it is the output transformer that can dramatically affect the tone of your amplifier since audio signal is actually passing through it.

Like tubes, transformers can distort and color the sound, but in part because they are wired to an amplifier rather than just being “plug-in” devices, I feel they receive very little of the attention as to how much they can affect the tone. In fact, output transformers used to be thought of as simply items to be replaced when they failed. However, I can attest personally that in many instances a change in the output transformer to a quality unit as an upgrade can make a huge difference in tone — especially with those popular reissue Fender, Marshall, and Vox amps currently being made.

I recently was fortunate enough to try some units out made by Mercury Magnetics™ (www.MercuryMagnetics.com) with the idea being to install and listen to the various tones of some of their models of output transformers. The test-dummy amp used in the first case was a stock 1974 Marshall JMP 50 watt model 1987 Lead model — it had recently blown its output transformer after a tube had shorted a connection between two pins of the tube socket so it was the perfect candidate. The stock transformer still actually “worked” somewhat – but the power output was very low, probably about 1/5 of what the amp should have been producing.

Mercury Magnetics™ offers three choices for replacement 50 watt output transformers and I had the opportunity to try two of them. The units are part of the Axiom® or ToneClone™ series which are hand-built replicas of the original transformers used in the Marshalls of various eras. In addition to the Marshall replacement transformers, Mercury Magnetics™ also makes various other Axiom® models for classic Vox and Fender amplifiers in addition to other toneful amps such as Ampeg, Gibson, Hiwatt, and many others.

The models I tested were the Axiom® 050JM, a 50 watt output transformer model based on the earliest “plexi” Marshalls, and the Axiom® 050JM-SL, a similar model with the “Self-Leads” option. Both are priced at $150. The SL model differs from the standard 050JM in that it is made just like the earliest original plexi transformers were, where the solid copper core wire that is wrapped around inside the transformer continues outside of the transformer and is also the same wire used to connect to the tubes and impedance plug, etc. The solid-core copper SL wires outside of the transformer are covered by glass-cloth fabric material, just like that used on the original ‘60s models. Conventional transformers (including the non-SL version 050JM) use a different type of wire, often Teflon, that is spliced at the end of the solid-core wire that is then wrapped around the transformer inside. So what’s the big deal about the wire type? Oddly enough, it seems to really affect the tone of the output transformer — more on this in a moment.

Mercury Magnetics™ makes another model as well, the 050JM-M ($175), that is designed to be used in conjunction with modified Marshalls that require a beefier output transformer to better match up to the higher B+ plate voltages and other modifications or changes that run the amps harder. Since the ’74 JMP Marshall guinea pig was a stock model, I focused on the two plexi model variations, the 050JM and 050JM-SL.

The 050JM-SL was installed first. Since Marshalls sound best when run hard into power tube distortion, that’s exactly the listening environment I used. The head was run through a ’71 basketweave Marshall cabinet with G12M-25 greenbacks. The guitar was my trusty Les Paul Classic with a custom-specified Seymour Duncan Seth Lover PAF-type pickup. The tone of the amplifier with the 050JM-SL installed was brighter in the upper mids as well as the highs. The gain was a bit lower than with the stock Marshall’s output transformer (when it was properly functioning), but the clarity of notes and chords was definitely improved. The 050JM-SL is a good fit for players that like classic-rock and blues tones and perhaps need a bit more high-end cut through the mix. Usually additional highs are the last things that are needed with Marshalls, especially the amps and cabs made from about the mid ‘70s onwards. However, if you play through an earlier model Marshall loaded into a basketweave cab with G12-25s, “over brightness” really is not an issue and the O50JM-SL is the right match for this earliest type plexi tone. If you’re running a later checkerboard cab and a ‘70s JMP Marshall like our test model, the O50JM-SL may prove to have a bit more top end than what you’d want.

Moving over to the O50JM, I was amazed at how different this transformer sounded, even though other than the lead wires that exited the transformer, it has the same specifications and parts as used in the O50JM-SL! After installing it, I knew that the O50JM was the choice for the hard-rockers, whether using a plexi or metal panel-front Marshall. The O50JM had more distortion dirt and grind in the tone. Both transformers contributed to a very smooth response from the Marshall, but the O50JM traded off the upper frequency and some of the clarity content found in the SL model for what sonically resulted to its increased distortion and compression.

I also had the opportunity to hear the difference in a 100 watt reissue Marshall SLP after a Mercury Magnetics™ O100JM ($250: their 100 watt “plexi” output model) was installed and the results were even more staggering than the difference between the stock and upgraded 1974 Marshall 50 watts. I attributed this directly to the obviously low-grade output transformer used in the reissue Marshall. Crank up a stock Marshall SLP reissue and the transformer really does mask the tone — bright, grainy and cold are the words that come to mind as well as a pure lack of fidelity. The O100JM brought back the low-end warmth, made the top end smooth and the famous Marshall midrange crunch was back in the equation just like the original models. This is tone, pure and simple — and the reissue SLP held its own against my original ’68 100 watt Plexi Marshall.

One area worth mentioning is that Mercury Magnetics™ can also rewind original vintage transformers if you don’t want to replace your burnt out original vintage transformer. Mercury Magnetics™ replaces the internal windings and necessary parts but uses the original core and covers and then puts the transformer back to original specifications. This is ideal for the person who is looking to maintain their amp in a form that is as original as possible. This service is more costly than simply replacing the output transformer outright, but it will also help maintain an amp’s value so it makes a viable choice.

When looking into swapping out an output transformer, while it’s not extremely complex to do, it’s best to have a qualified professional technician do the job as tube amps contain lethal voltages that are stored inside the amp even when it is not plugged in. It can be a bit of a time-consuming job as you have to get underneath the amplifier’s layout/circuit board so the average charge by a technician to remove and replace the old transformer with a new one will typically run about $100 or so.

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Boy have I got a treat for you guys!!! As you know I am a big fan of Mercury Magnetics transformers and have been a dealer for many years now. Their products are excellent as well as their customer service. The Mercury Magnetics line is quite extensive and they will do custom pieces as well.
I have been working with Sergio Hamernik for almost a year now on an exclusive interview all about guitar amp transformers. In this interview Sergio talks about how transformers affect your amp’s sound and feel, if transformer size matters and how it affects tone, what a choke is and much more information.

Mercury Magnetics is the leader in guitar amplifier transformer manufacturing. I have personally used their iron in many repairs, restorations and custom builds over the years. It never ceases to amaze me when I use a set and listen to the amp after the project is complete. It’s almost like a blanket was taken off of the sound and you are listening with “3D glasses.” The feel of the amplifier becomes much more dynamic as well. In my opinion “your amp’s transformers truly are the heart and soul of your amp.”
In this exclusive interview with Sergio Hamernik (the man behind the scenes at Mercury) some basic questions that all relate to the tone and feel of a guitar amplifier. His answers are forward, straight to the point and insightful.

300guitars: Why should guitar players care so much about the transformers in their amps?

Sergio Hamernik: When a player has to struggle with his amp then there’s really not much of a reason to play it. The tonal quality and performance of a tube-type guitar amp is largely determined by its transformers. Where there is great “tube tone,” you’ll always find “great sounding transformers” making it all happen!

Once you get past the player’s talent/ability, it’s all about the tone. If an amp doesn’t produce desirable tone, the window of inspiration closes and gets replaced with fatigue for both the player and the listener.

These days musicians who choose to play an electric guitar are only as good as their technical awareness and development allows them to be.

Transformers are the most important and most expensive components of guitar amp’s parts list. Also, they are the only components designed and built specifically for that amp, unlike the rest of the components — the resistors, capacitors and even vacuum tubes. These other components are considered to be “universal application” parts — meaning not just for making guitar amp tone. The electronics industry commonly uses these same components for medical, industrial, radio and many other applications. You certainly couldn’t fit or use guitar amp transformers for any of these other applications without offending someone.

Transformers are the key to providing that unique signature tone. It’s the transformers that differentiate one amp brand or sound from another. Here’s another way to look at it — all amp builders have to deal with the same limited choices from a small pool of vacuum tube manufacturers and other off-the-shelf component requirements (resistors, capacitors, etc.). This is NOT so with the transformers. Although there are plenty of generic transformer designs available that service the “power requirements” of an amp, you wouldn’t want to use these awful-sounding devices in your guitar amps. Likewise it’s not a coincidence that most of the best-sounding amp builders, modifiers, and repair techs begin their craft and finish it with enviable distinction, relying on their choice of transformers.

300guitars: Would you explain, in guitar player terms, what power and output transformers are?

Sergio Hamernik: Well, I really don’t like to lump all guitar players into one category. Making assumptions here (be it charitable or not) just doesn’t seem fair to me. Each player has their own level of interest and technical understanding on this subject. So I’ll split my answer into three different groups of definitions and let the player choose the one that suits them best.

In basic guitar player terms: It’s magic!!

In technician terms: A device applying mutual inductance in an efficient manner, so that circuits with different voltage/current requirements can correspond to each other.

In engineering terms: Transformers are electrical devices consisting of a magnetic-core and two or more coils (commonly referred to as windings) inductively coupled as circuits for the transmission of alternating-current energy from one closely coupled coil to another usually at a different voltage and current value. Transformers are also used for matching impedances between the signal generating source and the load.

300guitars: How does the power transformer affect the sound of your guitar? The sound comes from the output transformer right?

Sergio Hamernik: Yes the amplifier’s sound does come out of the output transformer, but where does it all begin? While an output transformer is vital to an amp’s ultimate tone, it simply can’t do it alone. The power transformer is the first step in building tone and in setting the standard of performance that the tubes and output transformer utilizes.

The output transformer depends on the power transformer for determining the maximum amount of power the amp can put out. The power transformer is also a major contributor for the overall feel of the amp. Such as punch through (the oomph factor), note attack, a perceived larger/wider soundstage presence and most importantly, the speed or reaction time of the amp’s audible response to the player’s sense of touch and playing technique. Tamper with that in any way by using cheap “dumbed down” power transformers and your audience may confuse your amp’s tone with the sound that is made by farting into a pillow!

A puny power transformer will deliver puny tone no matter how good the output transformer is. A good output transformer is also not intended to be a problem fixer or a turd-polisher. Garbage in is always garbage out. So please don’t shoot the messenger because the power tranny just ain’t cutting it.

Output and power transformers are actually close cousins. Doing similar tasks, one matches and isolates the speaker from the amp and the other one matches and isolates the amp from the power company. Peace keepers of a sort, preventing tubes from frying the speakers and preventing the power company’s energy from frying the amp and people connected to it.

300guitars: How does the output transformer affect the amps sound and feel?

Sergio Hamernik: An output transformer is the last component of the audio chain. The amplifier’s voice. The final word that reaches the speaker. Because all vacuum tubes were never really designed to distort intentionally, the weight of producing desirable amplified guitar tone falls heavily on the transformers. The output transformer’s job is to coax, extract and even irritate the power tubes into tone-friendly distortion. Ever wonder why solid-state amps have always played second fiddle to tube amp tone? Is that simply because of not employing tubes or of not having an output transformer? At the very least, it’s something to think about.

The output transformer determines how the amp sounds like from fully clean (sweet with a touch of sparkle) to fully over-driven (chainsaw) distortion, and everything in-between.

By the way, the term “clean” as used in guitar amp speak is a bit of a misnomer. There is no such thing as a distortion-free guitar amp. “Clean” simply refers to less distortion. There is an intimate inductive/reactive relationship between the output transformer (coils) and the speaker voice (coils) that also back-washes into the power tubes and influences that “clean to dirty” range of distortion. The quality of the output transformer determines how well the production of tone is executed by the amp — those notes that float between the strings which are created by overtones, chimes, bell tones, sustain, etc. Poorly made output transformers tend to gargle out, squash and mask those overtones.

The output transformer is also responsible for how efficiently the audio power of the amp transfers to the speaker (load). Ultimately, the player issues the final report card for the performance of the amp and the output transformer with comments like “clarity,” “articulation,” “loudness,” “break-up,” “grit,” “glassy,” “grind,” “dirty,” “woody,” “mushy,” “mashed,” “fuzzy,” “dark,” “cloudy,” and so on. There are hundreds of guitar amp speak descriptions and euphemisms out there which capture their emotional response (players and listeners alike) to what is coming out the amplifier’s window.

The mighty output transformer. Loved and hated by so many. Still one of the most misunderstood components of a guitar amp. 80 years and going strong. Go figure….

300guitars: When it comes to transformers does size matter? How?

Sergio Hamernik: I can almost hear my wife saying “now that sounds like a guy question.” Actually, in most situations, transformers and chokes make a good case for “bigger is better.”

A power transformer that is undersized for the job will run hotter than a bitch kitty. The amp is unable to be pushed — collapsing under weak, sagging voltages. It’s unable to keep up with the demands a player puts to an amp. The amp slows and has a tendency to cough out notes when played clean, and honk or bark out the notes when overdriven.

Another symptom of undersized and/or poorly designed power transformers is the phenomenon of “tone drift.” You know this is happening when the amp (common with some early Fenders and half of today’s 100 watt amps) starts off with decent tone for the first hour or so, then somewhere around two hours later the tone begins to change and not for the better. The internal temperatures of the transformer reach their peak and begin detuning the voltages and power the amp sees. This is caused by the changes to the resistance of copper. As the temperatures become excessive, the amp’s tone drifts. Remember rich amplifier tone needs to be well fed.

An undersized output transformer will act more like a suppository to amplified guitar tone than a big open window, which is its main purpose. Contrary to popular myth, there is no tone magic that occurs when you force feed an output transformer into alleged saturation or intentionally under power it with a dinky power transformer.

The term “output transformer saturation distortion” comes out of poor guessing by people who really don’t understand how tubes and transformers work together to produce music friendly harmonic distortion. If an output transformer reaches true saturation, all bass frequencies will disappear, the mid-range will sound dark and fuzzy with lower volume — leaving the treble frequencies tinny and brittle sounding. Does that sound desirable to you?

So it’s not the transformer itself generating that saturation effect on overdriven guitar tone. Good output transformers are designed to operate at low flux densities (loads of inductance). That low flux makes it difficult to saturate an output transformer. So the output transformer doesn’t get the credit or blame for that “saturated” sound. The actual source is in the push-pull power tube plate circuit reacting/saturating to the changing impedance it sees in the primary coil of the output transformer as its flux density changes with the changing frequencies and fluctuating power coming into it. The saturation phenomena (when it appears) is mostly happening in the tube.

If one wants to intentionally use a dinky power transformer to achieve tone magic (yes some have tried it, believe it or not). They could save themselves a bunch of money and buy that pillow I mentioned earlier for similar results.

Bigger is better for chokes if you have the room for it on the chassis. Assuming the same value of inductance, more iron and copper will let more power through and it will run cooler as well. This is because of lower DC voltage resistance with the extra copper involved. More voltage being available to the tubes means more power out of the amp.

300guitars: What is the choke for and why do you offer so many models?

Sergio Hamernik: Originally chokes were used in guitar amps to extend the life of vacuum tube rectifiers nearly tripling their life expectancy. They behave as a quasi current spike shock absorber. Chokes help capacitors smooth out any ripple that may be present on the DC voltage. The goal here is to always try to get the cleanest voltage to the tube circuits. Caps by themselves do a pretty job of it. But the choke is a multi-tasker. Along with doing a nifty job of smoothing out ripple, the choke does something else that makes it a significant contributor to the amp’s final tonal character. Because its connected in series with the rectifier and not tethered to ground like a cap, the choke (being an inductor) works nicely as a current regulator. And it keeps the current from decreasing as much as it would if there were only caps involved.

This nearly constant current available from the power supply, courtesy of the choke, makes for an ideal platform to make the best possible tone. Simply put, changing the value of the choke changes the tone and behavior of your amp.

Why so many varieties of chokes? Since chokes are a significant link in the audio chain, a one size fits all approach would be a great injustice to all guitar amp owners. Choke values are a finesse point, a fine tuning that helps to extract the most favorable tonal characteristics from an amp. We even offer a “shift on the fly” option with our multiple-value Multi-Chokes. One choke with several choices of inductance to help the amp builder find that sweet spot.

There is one last benefit to using chokes and it’s the most overlooked attribute. When a choke is connected between a couple of caps, a form of a low pass filter is created. What this means is the choke blocks high frequency garbage on the AC line from mixing with the guitar signal and causing all sorts of sonic collisions during the process of amplification. Let us not forget that we live in an electronic age far more complicated than the 1950s or 1960s. There are all sorts of things contaminating our power before it hits our amps. Computers, TVs, BTL cable services superimposed on our power lines, you name it, are all sources of noise we don’t want in our amps.

You’d be surprised to find out how many amp builders substitute a resistor for a choke just to save a few bucks and lose out on the choke’s very cool advantages. Almost all of the great vintage amps had chokes (Marshall 50 & 100 watt, Vox AC30, Fender Twin, Showman, Super Reverb, Vibroverb, Pro Reverb, Deluxe Reverb, etc.). The builders back then were taught tube theory and understood the relevance of the choke in their designs.

300guitars: Would a Mercury replacement reverb transformer make the reverb in an amp sound better?

Sergio Hamernik: That depends on how lousy the original one was. Reverb transformers are wound similar to guitar pickups. Lots of turns with very thin wire. Which adds to the expense of building them. Many companies skimp on materials to keep their costs down as a result.

We believe that the low level signal (barely a whisper) going into the reverb transformer is quite fragile in nature and anything less than using the best materials and winding techniques would cause it and its tone harm. According to our customers that have upgraded their reverb transformers with ours, they report better performance, higher def, a more lush-sounding reverb, etc. Based on that, my answer is yes — or your money back.

300guitars: Is it easy to upgrade an amplifier to a set of Mercury transformers?

Sergio Hamernik: Heck no! It’s not at all easy. Therein lies the rub. This is why we have the great divide between disappointing “corporate” tone and a thriving (yet inconsistent) boutique amp market.

How much hassle and expense are you willing to put up with to get your ideal tone? If merely swapping out tubes will improve tone, then why are we still missing so much of it today? If simply plugging things in or out made for better tone, then all the big amp companies would have nailed it decades ago and we wouldn’t have the need for this interview. But no, it’s not that easy. Quick, cheap and dirty (non-transformer) amp fixes are not worthwhile timesavers. They tend to act more like tinsel and don’t do much for real tone problems. My wise old grand dad once said, “Putting powdered sugar on a turd, doesn’t make it a doughnut.”

Upgrading to Mercury transformers requires technical expertise and a morbid fear of being electrocuted. There are potentially lethal voltages present, a ship load of wires coming out of these things to further complicate matters and requiring a good share of installation elbow grease to boot. A person should be schooled in electronics and not sexually frustrated. A steady hand goes a long way in doing a good install. It shouldn’t be a D.I.Y. project no matter how simple it may look to the casual observer. We have techs all over the planet that are willing to help and do a good job with safety first. Transformers are expensive and labor intensive to install.

Those who are ready to make such a commitment/sacrifice (who needs kids anyhow?) will be rewarded for their efforts. Don’t take my word for it, just read our testimonials. We have a bunch of them all unsolicited from players, amp builders and amp techs, who were impressed enough to write to us telling everyone that it was well worth it.

300guitars: It seems that tubes and big hunks of iron (transformers) are very old school technology. Is there anything new on the horizon at Mercury?

Sergio Hamernik: Playing a guitar is even older school. There isn’t anything modern about an electric guitar. But, what makes an electric guitar “electric” is the fact that it depends on the rules of magnetism. The pickups on an electric guitar are made of coils of wire responding/reacting to a changing magnetic field, so are the voice coils in speakers. And let us not forget the power transformer, choke and output transformer in an amplifier are doing their jobs through magnetic fields — literally completing the link between a player’s finger tips to the player’s and listener’s ears.

My point being that if you replace your amp’s transformers for something else, you might as well replace the electric guitar with something else. So happily, we’ll stay stuck with big hunks of iron and hang on to our electromagnetic guitars! This means that tubes, which are not magnetic devices, could eventually be replaced by other devices such as high-voltage Field Effect Transistors as long as they’re mated to right kind of transformers. This is stuff that you don’t really need to know, but it’s a point of interest. There are a lot of motivated people out there that are fed up with the poor quality of tubes today and might be able to make tube substitution a reality someday soon I hope.

What’s new on the horizon at Mercury? A bunch of stuff. A cool new line of transformers that will give the next generation of players a unique voice of their own. Vintage is great, but we also want to encourage a new generation of inspired song writers and players to continue guitar based music. It’s all about the tone that will help seed this.

We are in the process of designing, developing new Upgrade Kits, pre-packaged transformer sets for those who are not satisfied with the tone of their present day amps. It’s our passion.

And, possible amp tone clinics. If that is what players want. We are also working on things that are a bit beyond the horizon which I’ll talk about sometime later.

300guitars: Thanks Sergio for taking the time for this most informative interview!!!

Sergio Hamernik: Thanks Billy for this interview and for giving a damn about all this stuff we call tone. Your passion clearly shines through on your website. It’s people like you that keep it all going and compel us to continually raise the bar for the guitar playing community.

I also want to apologize in advance if I offended anyone’s sensibilities with any comments I may have made. I will learn to live with the guilt….

Source:  https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/300guitars/300g-02.htm

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In late 2009 I had the opportunity to talk with Sergio Hamernik about the history of the Mercury Magnetics, how he became involved in making transformers for guitar amplifiers, and the difference a high quality transformer can make on your tone.

How did Mercury get its start?

The company’s roots date back to the early ’50s. Mercury was started by an old General Electrics transformer engineer who was working there pre-World War II. He then went on to do a bunch of design work for the war effort. And in the early ’50s, hung a shingle and became self-employed.

The name “Mercury” came out of his passion for Mercury cars, he always drove a Mercury since the late ’40s — he loved those cars — and eventually moved from the East Coast to the West Coast where he found that there was a lot of military and aerospace work. A booming economy in the early ’50s gave him a lot of business.

I met him in the 1970s when I was an engineering student and an audio enthusiast. Back then the electronics world was well into its solid-state “evolution,” and interest in tube gear was quickly disappearing. Not for me, however. I found myself in demand as a guy who knew about those “old things”; not only the math, formulas and specifications but I also had the “ears.” I could fix and keep the old gear running. So, I worked as a hired gun for a bunch of studio heads and pro musicians.

Typically when an amp’s output transformer blew. No one seemed to know any better so it was just swapped by whatever “factory” replacement or an off-the-shelf “equivalent” catalog transformer was handy. The invariable result was that the amp’s characteristic sound was gone. And no matter what resistors, caps or tubes were used, it could not be rescued or returned to its original sound. It was the transformers, it turned out, that were the key. The problem was coming up with a way to remedy the blown transformer replacement or repair that wouldn’t alter its tone.

To further complicate things, most transformer people I dealt with just didn’t want to bother with the music industry. For the most part the established electronics industry considered the needs and opinions of the audio and MI (Music Industry) communities as subjective, run by kooks, and occupied by people who didn’t know what they are doing. Audio and MI had always been considered the illegitimate stepchildren to the rest of the industry.

Out of pure necessity I had to got involved with transformer design and manufacture. As a customer of Mercury, they had built many custom transformers to my specifications — although we had many heated, on-going debates on the subject because the company owner hated audio! He never did understand what made guitar amp transformers tick, or how musicians thought and reacted to them.

That aside, he pestered me for almost a decade to take over the company because he felt I was the only one qualified. Eventually I did, and that was when Mercury got serious about the guitar amp connection. Sometimes you end up becoming an expert at something when no one else wants to do the job.

By the time I took the helm we were developing a really good and workable understanding of the relationship of transformer design to decent tone and how amps should behave. And around 1980 we began the long and arduous task of collecting and cataloging transformer specifications for every vintage amp, from all over the world. The deeper we dug, the more apparent it became that there were all kinds of factors that no one had previously suspected that affected guitar tone. And likewise, no one seemed to be paying attention to such things.

In turn, we invented proprietary technologies to aid this work. Even after three decades, we’re still innovating and discovering new things. From that fundamental research came our now famous ToneClone series, and later the Axiom line, which is probably the most significant advancement in toneful guitar amp transformer designs since the ’50s. Both product lines, we’re proud to say, have distinctly different niches in the annals of guitar amp tone.

We’ve not only cured the old transformer tone issues, but made it possible for musicians to upgrade their existing amps. And we’ve also made it possible for amp builders to reproduce amps of the same or better grade than even the most outstanding vintage amps of the past.

When did you become involved with making transformers for guitar amplifiers?

Back in the ’70s I worked for people on a one-to-one basis, usually under confidential arrangements, with certain rock stars that just didn’t want to be bothered by their names being flaunted around. What they want was their amps running right for recording, projects, touring, etc.

The problem was that when technicians would fix the amps they’d often loose their tone. It turned out that the culprit was the replaced output transformers. A changed output transformer would completely alter the character of the amplifier. So as I was the guy doing most of the work to resolve this issue, this expertise was brought to Mercury where we began a special division to cater to the guitar heroes.

Word got around rather quickly that Mercury was able to repair, rewind, and restore the original transformers and it just grew from there. The whole “Tone Clone” thing came from artists who had these amazing irreplaceable amps, amps that often made recording history. They didn’t want to take these amps on tour. So we came up with the innovative idea of cloning their original transformers that they’d fallen in love with. With the clones we could now easily make, for the first time ever, several identical amps for them. Or they would assign their techs to drop-in the cloned transformers so they would have, for example, six amps that would all sound the same as that first perfect amp.

These artists could now go on tour and not worry about breakdowns or theft, and keep their prized-originals back at home.

I worked with Ken Fisher, the whole Trainwreck thing, and a lot of the early boutique guys — and still do with Alexander Dumble. They preferred to keep things confidential and not let too many people know who their sources were because there were so few transformer designers that catered to the guitar amp market.

There was also a slow-but-steady dumbing-down occurring in audio and all that had been the post World War II momentum. Many of the ex-military components we’d been using were high tolerance parts, with mil-spec formulations of iron and copper and so on, that had been used to win the war effort. During the ’50s and ’60s we enjoyed the benefits of those high quality components at surplus prices. But by the late ’70s, and definitely in the ’80s, steel manufacturers started to change recipes to make the iron and other materials much more affordable.

You can hear the differences between a late ’60s Marshall, a late ’80s Marshall, and a Marshall today. A good listen will really help you to understand what changes took place. Unfortunately they made so many of those changes more out of economic considerations than anything else. The amps were loud but they seemed to be losing sight of the fact that their tone was disappearing — the “recipes” had been changed.

In addition to many other factors, the iron that Mercury uses is custom-formulated specifically for us. We buy enough of it to be able to dictate the exact recipe from the foundries. And all of our iron is literally from American ore processed right here in the USA. 100% American made to the original specs. Are there drawbacks? Well, some of the iron rusts more easily, but that’s actually a good thing because rust is a natural insulator. But the opposite is also true. When you see a modern transformer with a silvery or a shiny core just know that they aren’t worth a damn when it comes to tone.

Can you tell us more about guitar amp transformer history?

Here’s an amusing anecdote that may help explain our case for guitar amp transformers: There’s a great deal of documentation, from back in the mid-’50s, where engineers, and other technical people, were writing really scathing reports on how awful the transformers were in the audio industry. Those darn transformers! When tubes were plugged into them there was a tendency to distort! And they couldn’t have any of that! Likewise with harmonic distortion — especially even-order harmonic distortion.

Many amp builders, techs and players, today, don’t understand that tubes were originally designed to run dead clean, linear, and be efficient voltage amplifiers. That the tone we’ve all come to know and love is caused by the transformers literally “irritating” the tubes into distortion.

Which is, of course, the whole point of what we are looking for in guitar amps. Back in the ’50s, they were fighting to get rid of those nasty distortion tonal characteristics. Now we embrace them. But that was audio – guitar amps were still in they’re infancy and yet to be realized. It took a generation or two of innovative musicians to take those “undesirable” tonal characteristics and create music; to work with distortion and make it into something musical.

Ironically, it was that no-distortion engineering mindset that ushered in solid-state, and why it was so openly embraced in the ’60s. It was solid-state electronics that eliminated the output transformer.

In the late ’60s, Vox went to Thomas Organ to have solid-state amps built. They were very proud of this state-of-the-art amplifier. Curiously, I met a few of the musicians from the late ’60s that were sponsored by, and using, those amps. The tone was so awful and unbearable that they used the enclosures but hid their old tube gear inside! As you may already be aware, the vacuum tube industry is alive and well, and we’re still waiting for the solid-state industry to catch up.

Part of the confusion is that musicians assume it’s the tubes that give them their tone. There’s a lot of synergy going on in an amp, and the tubes certainly contribute, but let me illustrate this another way. Did you know that there is what we call “output transformer-less” amplifiers in the HiFi world?

These amps basically parallel a bunch of power tubes together until they get down to 16, 8, or 4 ohms. There is no output transformer, so you literally connect the speaker directly to the tubes. If you ever get the opportunity to do an audio demo with this style of amp, you will find that while it works, it sounds nearly solid-state. The output transformer is what provokes a tube into giving the characteristics that we find desirable as far as tone. Audio engineers didn’t want the tubes to distort, as tubes are basically nothing more than very clean voltage amplifiers. But when you have a reactive element like a transformer, you irritate the tubes into harmonic distortion.

Therefore, the difference between a good and mediocre transformer is based on how it works and syncs with these tubes to produce the kind of tone or distortion we are looking for. It is not as easy as winding some wire around a steel core, if it was then we would not be having this conversation.

How does a Mercury transformer made today compare to the transformers made in the golden age of amps (the ’50s and early ’60s)?

One of the biggest mistakes existing in today’s amplifier community, especially amongst hobbyists and do-it-yourselfers, is to blindly copy every aspect of a vintage amplifier hoping to get a piece of that golden tone. At best, this method still produces very random results. One of the key reasons for this is the often-overlooked missing transformer formula. A builder will fuss around with the tiniest of other details but completely miss how the transformers fit into the equation. In short, get the transformers right, then the rest is much easier. Here’s another look at theses deceptively simple devices:

For vintage-style transformers, Mercury starts by duplicating the transformer design, build errors and all. We use the best grade components like they did in the ’50s and ’60s. We wind every layer and every turn as if it were a circuit in itself. In fact, the diagram on the left shows an output transformer circuit equivalent. Most people would think it is an audio circuit. These things are fairly complex, and all the numbers have to be right in order to get the tone we want as musicians.

We really do follow the recipe to a point. Although we don’t repeat any of the mistakes or inconsistencies that were prevalent, but didn’t affect tone. For example, if you were into Fender tweeds or late-’60s Marshalls. To do this we would literally put the word out to rent or borrow dozens of amplifiers to find the one or two that had the sound, and dismiss the rest. There were typically many inconsistencies as well as “happy accidents” in the best-sounding examples we’ve auditioned. A lot of this has to do with the sloppy tolerances of the original transformers.

For our transformers we extract the best parts and virtues of the original best-of-breed transformers and remove all of the obstacles to tone. Perhaps just as important is that we adopted a “cost is no object” approach, making our transformers equal or better than the originals — and then add consistency. We now have this so finely tuned that if you bought a transformer from us five years ago, and then the same one today, it would sound exactly the same. You don’t want good batches and bad batches, which is precisely what made the original production runs vary so much.

Another issue is the so-called controversy between paper tubes and nylon bobbins. In the vintage years they used both. Some people think that somehow, some magical quality comes from using a paper tube winding form over a nylon bobbin. Tonally it made no difference at all. Paper tubes were widely out of tolerance most of the time because of how they were made. They would wind multiple coils on long sticks then use a saw or blade to cut off the various coils. In order for these long tubes or coils to come off of their winding forms they had to be conical. So this invariably meant that the first coil would be larger in diameter and the last coils smaller. As you can see, it’s easy to see why each of these inconsistently-made bobbins had a greater difference than the material they were made from. And there are other issues that occur over time, like paper has a tendency to disintegrate, collect moisture, etc.

When we switched to using nylon bobbins the tolerances were within 3,000’s of an inch of each other, as opposed to the wildly varying amounts found in paper tubes. If you were ever to take apart a really old transformer (pre-’70s) sometimes you’ll find wood wedges that are jammed between the paper tube and the core because that piece of paper was too wide and too sloppy to fit into the core correctly! They would force a wedge in there so the darn things wouldn’t rattle!

Which method, paper or nylon, made for the best tone? It’s the luck of the draw. We’re fortunate in that we have all these stars as clients who have these amazing-sounding amps. They went through the hassle of culling and choosing and picking the special amps that inspired them. The amps they recorded with. When we analyzed their transformers we sometimes found happy accidents or other little anomalies that would set a transformer apart from already sloppy tolerances of the standard production run.

There are little subtleties and changes from one transformer to another that make a heck of a difference tonally. So when you look online at our list of ToneClones, just know that they are from the hand-picked, best-of-the-best amps of their model and era. We continue this “weeding” process every day — and there’s apparently no end in sight. And that’s why, with some amps, we have several versions — each with its own tonal qualities — and others only a single set to choose from.

We use this process to establish new benchmarks. And you never know, tomorrow a new variant may arrive that totally blows away what we already thought was as good as it could ever get.

It is interesting that you take that approach to upgrading — the never-ending search for better-sounding benchmarks.

There is no real money or glamour in what we do, it is really all born of a passion for music. I come from a musical family, my Mom taught me as a little kid that music was a form of “food.” And that hasn’t changed. Everyone who works at Mercury is just in love with playing and listening to music, and we all believe that there is always some room for improvement or a way to raise the bar somehow.

Back in the ’70s and ’80s there wasn’t really a need for a company that designed and sold transformers to the public, so I stayed away from the general public for as long as I could and really only worked with professionals.

But at some point I realized that it was the average player who was getting ripped-off. Things were getting dumbed-down, the tone is slowly and steadily being vacuumed out of the amps. They were becoming duller-sounding, less interesting and more noisy. So, we decided to formally launch this product line so the average guy could have access to our technology. It takes an extreme amount of labor and effort it takes to build them to this standard. You know, even if someone wanted to buy 1000 transformers we would have to no-bid them because we really don’t have any way of doing things quickly.

Automation isn’t a practical solution. Everything we do is wound by hand, one at a time; it is the only way it can be done. Say you have 100 turns and 10 layers, well that would mean 10 turns per layer — that is how a machine would think of it. But what if a rock legend’s best transformer was 9 turns on one layer, 11 turns on the next, 7 on the next, 3 after that and so on, but the sum total ended up being 100 turns. Sometimes one layer can have a different winding style than the other; sometimes it is non-symmetrical meaning, if it is a push-pull, that one side of the primary doesn’t have the same turns as the other side. If that was the recipe that created the magic, we’d have to duplicate it. It’s just not practical to build machines to do that, so we end up having to do it by hand. It’s the proud old-school craftsmanship way of doing things. Something I think we could see a lot more these days.

We have a reputation for nailing tone. Our Fender transformers don’t sound like Marshalls, they sound like Fenders — and vice versa. In fact, we’ve become the industry’s new standard. If you were going to design or create a tube-based amp, it’s clear that we’re the folks to talk to.

Can you explain how a Mercury transformer can improve an amplifier’s tone and how they outperform the stock transformers found in most amplifiers?

In designing toneful transformers specifically for guitars (and that’s all we’re talking about here, not necessarily transformers for HiFi or any other purpose), the trick is in the magnetic field and how it behaves. The nature and the speed with which the iron reacts to the changing of an alternating current, in an alternating magnetic field, is what makes tone happen.

If you have “slow” iron, you’ll have a dull, non-sparkly sound with no bell tones — no matter what you do with the amp it will always be kind of noisy and fuzzy.

Where others have tried and failed they’ve blindly followed generic transformer formulas without understanding that guitar amps are different animals. They’ve somehow missed that point despite all the evidence to the contrary. The fact is that transformers for guitar amps do not necessarily follow textbook rules.

Indeed, it should probably be noted that we’ve developed a whole new technology around transformer design specifically, and only for the guitar industry. And that these designs are essentially irrelevant to any other use. But Mercury is also in a highly unusual position. Our decades of transformer “vivisection” have revealed all manner of unconventional tips ‘n tricks to us. And we’re now the keepers of this new, but proprietary, technology.

I seriously doubt that we could have done it without the, let’s call it “archeological benefits,” of our observations. Decades of studying the good, the bad and the ugly of guitar amp transformers have revealed a great deal.

Nothing that I have found in the reissue market, transformer-wise, even resembles anything that was made during the “the golden age of tone.” They are unrelated. The inductance, magnetic fields — all of that is just completely different and far removed from the original designs and recipes. So there is no way that a reissue amp is ever going to sound vintage unless they bother putting in the right ingredients.

With our Upgrade Kits, for example we’re trying to show people that we can move forward into new sonic territory from where vintage designs and tone left off. And our Axiom series transformers are the definitive showcase for this technology. Their tone is just amazing.

To push the point even further, we don’t include any “voodoo” parts in our Upgrade Kits. With the exception of the transformers, the Kits use only common, everyday, and off-the-shelf components. And most of our Kits also include a Mini-Choke. When the circuitry is correctly designed a Mini-Choke will make a huge improvement in an amp’s tone because, in terms of its power supply, it changes the way the amp works.

A good guitar amp is only as good as its power supply. If you have a dynamic and moving power supply that reacts to the demands of the audio end you’ll get get great note separation and good bass dynamics. You start to hear chimes and other phenomenon, and even the harmonics between the strings like a “5th note.” What the heck is the “5th note”? In barbershop quartets, if they get their harmonies right, they hear the “5th note” which is basically a harmonic of all four singers. We are doing that with our guitars thanks to distorted amplifiers.

Where did the idea for offering an Upgrade Kit for amplifiers like the Champ “600” and Valve Jr. come from and who designed the Upgrade?

I designed all of the magnetics (the transformers and Mini-Choke) and the general concept behind the Upgrade in league with Allen Cyr from the Amp Exchange. He is one of the most competent, finest amp designers I know of; there are only about five in the world that are true masters of the art — those who really know the math, how to read tone, how to listen to the subtleties of clean and overdriven sounds and tones, design circuits, and understand tube behaviors. As a bonus to those who appreciate this kind of thing, we always try to throw in some interesting tweaks and tricks that are unorthodox.

The idea is to spark some interest and perhaps get more people involved in tube-based amp tone and evolution. We expect some folks to study our Upgrade Kits, learn from what we’ve done, and take off into new territory from there. No one is offended by that.

But our initial concept was to take an inexpensive stock amplifier, one that cost no more than $100 or so, and modify it into a professional- or recording-quality amp for very few bucks. The Valve Jr. was the amp that gave us the inspiration for this project. Epiphone broke the mold with their little Valve Jr. amp. Out of the box it’s a remarkable value. So, although it was a bit of a challenge I thought it was interesting because we were not stepping on anyone’s toes — we were just taking something that already existed and designing an Upgrade Kit around it. A simple proof of concept that made the case of transformers and guitar tone. It just seemed like a cool thing to do. The project was validated when pro players began demo’ing our prototype amps — they couldn’t believe how amazingly great such a tiny amp could sound, it freaked them out, and they all wanted one of their own!

Our intention was to give the kid who was practicing guitar in his bedroom, whose parents are on a limited budget, REAL guitar tone. In a typical scenario, the parents buy a cheap little amp and guitar combo because they want to see if their kid will stick with it. But the kid doesn’t understand that the sound of the amp is fatiguing. He doesn’t understand why the amp doesn’t sound good. And he doesn’t realize that the amp is fighting him, tiring him out. I know that happened to me and so many of my friends when we were kids. Struggling with hard-to-play guitars and poor-sounding amps is probably the single-most reason so many budding young (and old) guitarists give up the pursuit of their dream. But some are rescued. One day they visit a guy, or hear someone play, who has the amp with the tone and with just the sweep a few chords they experience the “My gawd!!! I want to sound like this!” phenomenon.

That is what we’re trying to offer with these Upgrade Kits — where the tone is accessible to just about anyone. So they could have an amp that wasn’t dull or desensitized. An amp that allows them to make that real connection to the tone. Tone is not just about noise and volume, it is rather complex, and undeniably emotional.

At the LA Amp Show we had our Upgraded Fender Champion “600” running into a full Marshall stack. Here we had this little amp powering eight 12″ speakers and it sounded great. People kept asking to see the back of the amp thinking that we had somehow rigged up something, but it was just the little Champ “600” with our Upgrade Kit.

When you have a nice open tone it is not about counting watts because the window is so big and wide and the soundstage is so deep that it gives you the impression of more power. We are not putting out more power with the Upgraded “600” — but it sure sounds like it! It’s about opening up that tone window and giving you more.

It’s kind of like taking a radio whose volume is set to half way and having it placed about 20 feet away from you then bring it right next to your ear — the volume has not changed but you hear a lot more of its content.

One of the things we do when modifying a circuit is to lower the noise floor, which a lot of people overlook. Many amps, like the Valve Jr., have a nasty hum in standby. We had one that would just start to howl if you left it alone for a while! So whatever high noise floor it had would eventually feedback on itself and cause that noise.

Our focus is on inspiring people. We are trying to show people that they really can get great tone today, that there is no age that has come and gone. There is still a lot of fun things left to do with your amplifier when you are on the search for great tone.

Hearing how much these Kits improve upon the tone of the amplifiers, and how well thought-out they are, will a Mercury amplifier that is designed and built by you ever make an appearance?

No. We are a supplier of key components to the boutique industry and to several of the large amplifier companies, and that is a comfortable spot to be in.

There is no shortage of amplifier companies out there and it really is a conflict of interest if we were to start selling amps and transformers. I would rather stay out of it.

The whole point of the Upgrade Kits was an area where I didn’t see any conflict with the people who were in the amplifier business. In the end the Kits really represent a transformer demonstration. If you were to just show someone a picture of a transformer or even had one in your hand and tried to explain how much better their tone would be, no one would care — it’s a yawner. But when you build one of these inexpensive Upgrade Kits and you actually hear the difference that the transformers make, it really drives home our point that transformers are important, that they are the building blocks of guitar amp tone.

And in the end we do this because we love it, we really love what we do. We get to create all of these products that help people find their tone, and who wouldn’t what to do that?

By Billy Penn

Talking Amps with Sergio Hamernik

Why does it hurt when I play my guitar amp? Recent statistics have confirmed a steady decline in the annual sales of electric guitars since 2005 and it is no surprise guitar amplifiers have also suffered a similar fate. What is the root cause of this negative trend and can it be fixed? The demand is certainly still there as evidenced by the increasing prices for vintage gear and the growth of live music with often sold-out venues and tours. There is also a steady demand for recorded music and a concerted effort to improve the listening experience of consumers. Yet, the market for entry level guitars and amps remains uninspired. Potential customers are bored to the point of disinterest, feeling disconnected from the rich history of amplified guitar tone. Out-sourcing and off-shoring of operations has also taken a toll on the boutique guitar amplifier market with quality taking a back seat. If you take a look behind any of these imported guitar amplifiers, you’ll find disposal instructions validating the future of their purchase as inevitable E- Waste. How is that for a vote of confidence?

It is not a coincidence that this industry began its nosedive when this country’s preoccupation with cheap and dirty imported products took off full speed with the mega music store mentality trending to reduce musical instruments to a commodity driven by the lowest bidder. Has craft become an unnecessary expense? These statistics reveal that the average consumer is not happy going down that road.

It seems that not enough people understand the cosmic importance of transformers when it comes to delivering amplified guitar tone because all too often transformers in amplifiers are relegated to the typical bean-counter’s chopping block. Music and how it sounds to us is very much like food, the ingredients and how they are prepared really matter. The recipe for great sounding tone hasn’t been lost, just abandoned by short-sighted, penny-pinching profiteering. Perhaps the current bankruptcy hearings and bailout talks of larger corporations are a good indicator of things to come. This could usher in a revival of mom and pop music stores re-opening and hopefully working symbiotically with internet-based businesses. We need a new working environment to encourage and inspire the next generation of musicians with better sounding equipment. Choosing better transformers is a good start and will open the door to better tone since it has become obvious that ignoring this rule only leads to poor audio performance. Give the people what they want, and they will pay a little extra to get it without compromise. Not all food has to be cheap and fast, a discerning palate for tone goes a long way to maintain the dignity and essence of music.

Having amassed the largest data base of vintage audio replacement transformers, which even the average bedroom player can have equal access to, the history of Mercury Magnetics dates back to the early 1950s as being a resource for professional musicians, guitar amplifier collectors and as an OEM for some of the finest amplifiers being built today. Stay tuned for follow up articles detailing products and services available to any player needing more information about our various transformer brands, such as ToneClones, Amp-Savers and custom applications. Our efforts are primarily to dispel myths and junk science to help players and listeners get a clear understanding of what it takes to improve their experience.

Mercury continues the tradition of the company that pioneered audio transformers in the U.K. Perhaps best known for their role in vintage Hiwatt amps, Partridge remains amongst the most preferred transformers from British amps of that era. Their design and build quality was a rarity, even for back then. And, like all well-made transformers from great designs, the original Partridges have their own outstanding tonal and other sonic qualities.

Our Partridge line are clones of the original Partridge transformers used mostly in the first Hiwatt amps. All Partridge transformers come with both our 10-year Workmanship Warranty and Tonal Guarantee.

Partridge transformers may be used for upgrades, replacements or custom tube-based guitar amp applications.

To find out more, or discuss to discuss the characteristics of the different tranny sets available for your amps, give us a call or email.

Did you know that tube-based guitar amplifier transformers are unusual and very different from industrial as well as audio transformers? And did you also know that it is impossible to engineer the “perfect” guitar amplifier power transformer from strictly “by the book” specifications? Interestingly, almost all of the great-sounding amp transformers contain either flaws, “happy accidents,” or have other issues in their construction that were not part of their original specifications.

Your quest for truly inspirational and superior tone has led you to the final link in the chain – Mercury Magnetics. Premium guitar amplifier power transformers, output transformers and chokes.

Transformer sets are often misunderstood, yet vital musical components. They’re integral to the nuances of your guitar amp’s sound. Far more than tubes, speakers or other amp components, the transformers establish the platform for shaping your amp’s unique sound.

Today’s players are more informed and demanding than ever. They hear the differences and know that both transformer design and build-quality have a dramatic effect on their tone. Indeed, if your tube-based amp is suffering from bland and unexciting tone then it’s probably related to low-end or poorly designed transformers. As amp designers, techs and manufacturers have discovered, the practice of dumping generic, low-bidder transformers into their amps doesn’t cut it any more. And now you know why.

Within the player community no other company commands as much respect as Mercury Magnetics. You can depend on our uncompromising, fanatical build quality, consistency and reliability.

Mercury Magnetics

As I mentioned earlier in the article, I had not originally intended to use a Mercury Magnetics power transformer (PT), electing instead to save a little money and use the stock DRRI PT. I’ve since changed my mind. How this came to be makes for an interesting story.

About 10 days before I was scheduled to pick up my amp at Mikey’s shop, I sent out emails to all the companies that I linked in this article. This included Mercury Magnetics since Mikey was putting their output transformer, reverb transformer and choke in my amp. Shortly after sending out an email to Mercury, I heard back from Paul Patronete who graciously gave the OK to link to their site. He also took a moment to let me know in addition to the other Mercury iron I was using, their power transformer would make an improvement in the tone of my amp. Paul invited Mikey and me to give Sergio Hamernik (an owner of Mercury Magnetics) a call to discuss the benefits of the power transformer.

I really appreciated the helpful suggestion but I hadn’t ever heard of a PT making a difference in tone, thinking the other pieces of Mercury iron would make 90% of the improvement. I did let Paul know I’d add a comment in this article saying I’d heard from Mercury and the PT would make a big improvement in the tone. He wrote me back with an interesting bit of information I had never considered. Here’s a paraphrase from the email he sent me:

The stock reissue PT does an OK job of supplying the required voltages to the circuit however the overall PT’s behavior under working conditions is not the same as the original vintage Deluxe Reverb PT. Characteristics that make the reissue PT different than the original PT involve flux density, AC regulation and primary inductance. These characteristics are a very important factor for the player that wants to nail the tonality of the vintage Blackface Deluxe Reverb amp.

Paul once again encouraged me to talk to Sergio. This certainly piqued my interest so I got in touch with Mikey and discussed Paul’s comments. We decided to get Paul on a conference call and to also see if we could speak to Sergio. We called Mercury in the late afternoon, four days before I was due to pick up my amp. Although Sergio wasn’t in, Paul spent almost 1.5 hours talking with Mikey and me about their power transformer and the rest of their iron.

Paul is a guitar player first and foremost and his enthusiasm for great tone is infectious. In addition to talking about all the good things Mercury Magnetics has brought to the industry and guitar players, he talked about what some of the cutting edge builders are doing. Mikey and Paul had very similar opinions on what makes great tone and why. It was a very informative and fun conversation. At the end of it, I certainly wanted to speak to Sergio so Paul invited Mikey and I to call again in the morning.

The next day, Mikey and I called Paul and after a brief chat, he brought Sergio to the phone. It was truly a treat to talk with Sergio and I learned a LOT about tube amps, the importance of an amp’s magnetics (the iron) and primarily, the benefits of using a Mercury Magnetics power transformer engineered for a Deluxe Reverb. As we talked, I jotted down as many notes as I could manage. I’ll share them with you now, although please keep in mind I may not have captured everything Sergio was conveying. He did a fine job though of keeping his information geared to my level of understanding.

Sergio started by asking me if I knew what modulation is. Of course I’ve heard the word but I wasn’t sure what it meant in relation to tube amps. He explained that an amplifier is a modulated power supply whereby the guitar signal is used to modulate the amp and so the quality of the power transformer affects tonality. He said the power transformer (along with the rectifier tube, a 5AR4 type) is responsible for taking the AC wall current and transforming it into the DC current used in certain parts of the amplifier. He said the power supply sets everything else up and everything depends on the character of the power supply. For example, since it helps determine the AC and DC voltages going to each section of the amp and tubes, it has a big impact on the feel of the amp.

I learned that although the stock DRRI power transformer provides the right amount of volts and amps (current) to the amplifier, the DRRI power transformer is nothing like one of the original PT’s used in Deluxe Reverbs. Sergio said among other things, the flux density and primary inductance all have to be right. As a comparison, the DRRI stock power transformer has 1/2 or less inductance on the primary than a Mercury Axiom PT. (You may recall from a previous section; inductance is the opposition to changes in current.)

He said capacitance and leakage reactance are critically important and Mercury Magnetics power transformers have lower flux density and heavier iron with better permeability. Capacitance and leakage reactance between the windings, and where the filaments are in relation to the B+ supply, really matters. Now that’s a mouthful! I think I’ll need to spend some time researching the concepts mentioned in just the last two paragraphs so I can better understand the electrical theory behind his designs. One of the best things about this project and writing this article is being exposed to new concepts. This is my idea of fun!

Sergio did break this theory down into practical examples for me. He explained the Mercury Magnetics method starts with finding the very best sounding amps and examining their iron. For example, if there is a great tone on a recording, Sergio can try to find the exact amp used on the recording and use it as the model for new iron.

Mercury Magnetics’ Axiom power transformer for a Deluxe Reverb (not for a DRRI)

The DRRI power transformer has different physical dimensions than the one in a Blackface Deluxe Reverb. Mikey has an electronic caliper that does very precise measurements so he sent these dimensions to Paul so Mercury can provide the perfect power transformer for this amp. They have the know-how to build power transformers that will sound just like one in a Blackface Deluxe Reverb. They do this by using the very best example of an original 1965 Deluxe Reverb transformer, unwinding it and laboriously documenting every nuance of how it is constructed. Then a combination of old and new technologies is used to create the very best transformer possible.

There’s a reason why guitar players seek out older amps, and this obviously is because of better tone, which I’ve come to understand is largely due to quality magnetics. I learned the magnetics available to amp builders in the 50s and 60s were made from materials optimized for the military for WWII and the Korean War. There was a tremendous overstock from the military build-up and amp builders had ready access to very high quality materials.

Modern materials are designed to be cheaper to hit price points. Sergio told us he specs custom steel to make Mercury transformers. They do enough volume of business that he can insist his steel manufacturer hand crank the steel through a gas oven, just like it was done in the 50s and 60s. Steel and copper behave differently at different milliamps so the properties of the metal must be designed and manufactured to this end. For the guitar player, this level of quality shows up in things like the ramp rate of note attack, the feel of the pick attack and better bass note response. He also used the choke as an example, where the Q-Factor (the measure of quality in a resonance system) is quite a bit different between the stock DRRI choke and the Mercury choke, so much so that it makes for an audible difference.

Sergio explained the power transformer is rated for a lot more watts than the amp produces. For example, the Mercury Magnetics Axiom power transformer for my amp will be rated at 120 watts and is capable of supporting an audio output of up to 60 watts. The general rule-of-thumb is the power transformer needs to be rated at twice as much as the maximum audio output.

Since this power transformer has specs well in excess of what the two 6V6 tubes are capable of creating, it can safely run 6L6 tubes. 6V6 tubes require only 60% of the power of 6L6 tubes. The output transformer is also capable of handling 6L6 tubes so by getting the Mercury Magnetics power transformer, I can get more power and a different tonality out of my amp than with the 6V6’s. This is a nice bonus and one I hadn’t considered when Paul first emailed me, suggesting their PT. I prefer 6V6’s in the amp but it’s nice to have another option.

Mikey asked Sergio to describe the sonic differences we might expect with the use of the Mercury Axiom reverb transformer. Sergio said the sound differences are subtle because it is such low power but if you have good ears, you’ll hear differences in “evident detail” and a “perceived wider bandwidth.”

Mikey and Sergio talked a bit about the dramatic effects of using the Mercury output transformer. Sergio likened his output transformers to a window with no glass and no screen, allowing all of the tonality of previous sections of the amp to pass through with great clarity. He explained the excellent “phase relationship tonality” (perceived as a 3 dimensional swirl) is dependent on the quality of the construction of the transformer. By comparison, the DRRI output transformer acts as dirty glass covered by a dirty screen. I couldn’t help but be reminded of the scene from the movie “My Cousin Vinny” where Vincent Gambini (Joe Pesci) disproved the testimony of a witness by pointing out with pictures how the witness was looking through dirty glass, a bug covered screen, and through trees and bushes at a fleeing car.

As a tube amp enthusiast, I’ve been reading and learning about tube amp electronics for quite some time. In this conversation with Sergio I learned a lot of things I had never considered. Of course, by now I was completely convinced their power transformer should go in my amp! You can understand why the top amp builders call upon Sergio for his expertise, designs and remarkable archive of information.

If you take a look at the Mercury Magnetics site you will find a large selection of iron to fit just about every need (www.MercuryMagnetics.com).

Sergio and Paul both told us there were very significant differences in iron on the same models of amps from the same era. Sergio spoke of a conversation he’d had with Leo Fender about amp components. Leo told him the Fender Company experienced a swelling of demand for amps when young people became enamored of guitar. Fender was just trying to meet the enormous demand so they put out specs for things like power transformers to various suppliers. The suppliers had a lot of latitude in how they meet the specs, creating a lot of variation in the parts.

Here’s another new bit of tube amp knowledge I learned from Sergio. He told me all magnetics (iron) in an amp need to be broken in over a 20 to 40 hour period of playing time. He said initially, there’s a slight harshness in the tone, which can also be characterized as a lack of sweetness. The magnetics have to be thermally and magnetically cycled. Apparently, it is similar to breaking in a speaker. Paul later told us he’s had guitar players call him up after a month to describe the new subtleties and complexities emerging from the amp: a wonderful and unexpected surprise.

After spending about 45 minutes on the phone with Mikey and me, Sergio turned us back over to Paul. I must say it was a pleasure and an honor to speak with Sergio and he couldn’t have been more gracious in taking his time to explain all of the information I’ve relayed above.

Paul and Mikey made arrangements to take the exact measurements of the bolt placement and chassis openings in the DRRI for a new power transformer. I sat back for a bit as Paul and Mikey continued where they’d left off the night before, talking about new amp ideas Mikey has been considering, which will involve creating an amp using a wide variety of power tube options. It’s too early to go into details about that though. I’ll have to save that for another article :>)

By the way, we got to know a bit more about Paul Patronete. He is a key associate of Sergio who talks with guitar players and amp builders all the time, helping people decide which Mercury Magnetics iron is right for them. You can tell he really gets off on helping players attain tonal nirvana.

Of interest, before coming to Mercury Magnetics, Paul was the General Manager for Groove Tubes for many years. I dug out my copy of Aspen Pittman’s “The Tube Amp Book – 4th Edition” and sure enough, there is a picture of Paul on the inside of the back cover. He’s also listed in the very front of the book in the “Strokes for My Folks” page and a color photograph of his Orange amps is also in the book.

Well, I’ve gone through all of my notes from my discussions with Paul, Sergio and Mikey so I guess it is time to close this chapter. I’ll be picking up my amp tomorrow although it will have the stock DRRI power transformer in it until a new one is manufactured. I sure am glad Paul took the time to talk to me, educate me, and with Sergio’s help, convince me to get a Mercury Magnetics power transformer to go along with the rest of the Mercury iron in my amp. I’ll make another trip to Mikey’s shop in Baltimore next month and I’ll be sure to let you know how it sounds, so stay tuned.

Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/misc/WayneReno.htm

New Amps on the Block: The Sound of History and Innovation

Byers Amplifiers is a new company with the unique outlook and values of its founder. Trevor Byers worked at the Fender Custom Shop and has seen it all, from carefully reproducing old vintage gear to building new guitars to exacting specification. Trevor founded Byers Amplifiers because he saw a need for amps that no one else is building. One of his amps is an original product, the Byers Model 10, while the other is a faithful re-creation of one of Leo’s earliest K&F amps — an amp so old and rare that the only way to see one is to make a pilgrimage to the Fullerton Museum in California. Byers has unique values regarding the way things should sound, feel and look. We interviewed Trevor at his shop in Corona, California to talk about Leo, the history of these old amps, and the new amps that bear his name.

Where did you get the idea to start an amp company?

It was the K&F that got me started. Working at Fender and knowing the entire lineage, including the K&F era, which is kind of separate, it was really intriguing to see what kind of things he came up with. Because it was so rare, the K&F was really appealing to me.

How did you discover this cool original gear while at Fender?

People would come in with things that were not in regular production and would want to have things done and have items reproduced, and people would come in for repairs too. It was a nice influx of cool equipment coming in, and we would turn around and reproduce it to the best of our ability. One of the first pieces we did while I was there was the “snake-head” Tele set, the first regular Fender-style guitar that Leo built.

Doesn’t that predate the Nocaster?

Yes, in fact I think that guitar was a ’47 or ’48. It had a four-piece pine Telecaster-style body, two inches thick with a small, black Bakelite pickguard, volume and tone control, and one bridge pickup. The snake-head headstock was the style he was using on his K&F lap steels, so it had three-on-aside tuners, with a solid, fat, maple neck with no truss rod — he hadn’t thought about a truss rod yet! They only made a few of them, and they were made as a set with the woody Pro amp.

So, did you put truss rods in the reproductions?

No, but they are big, round, C-shaped necks, and they’re quarter sawn, so they don’t move around too much.

There are actually guys who believe that necks without truss rods sound better.

This guitar is really neat-sounding because we used antique pine. One of my first jobs there was to rough-cut these old pine boards, glue them up, and plug and fill nail holes. Looking at these old-style guitars and amplifiers in comparison to what was being manufactured at the time, I saw a night and day difference. These have a style to them that nobody does any more.

This got me started thinking about K&F. If the circuit for the woody Pro was primitive, then the K&F amp circuit was even more so. The Pro had 6L6s and a push-pull output, and a 15″ speaker — a field coil speaker, which we had a lot of problems with. The K&F amps didn’t use field-coils and were permanent-magnet.

Give us a little background on K&F.

It was Doc Kauffman and Leo Fender. The information on K&F varies, so I can’t give a perfect history. They started around late 1944, and ran probably to the end of ’45 or early ’46, then they stopped making these in mid-1946. Leo had done some really interesting things — he had designed an automatic jukebox and little P.A. systems, and he was working with his radio company. Then, he had an idea for these guitars. He started making them and it became popular enough that he needed a larger investment; Doc didn’t think he could invest in something that looked like a hillbilly guitar, and at that time, that was the type of music played on them.

I remember even up until the 1960s, many jazz guitarists looked down their noses at these and told us, “When you grow up, you’ll get a real guitar,” meaning something more traditional, like a Gibson archtop.

Yeah, so Doc left and the K&F company was dissolved. Finding pieces from that time period is hard because there’s no record of how many were made and there were no advertisements for them. I do have some pictures from George Fullerton that Doc’s son gave him of the first piece that they put together, which is nothing like the ones that went into production. It’s very beautiful.

Did you get to play that original Tele that was copied for this run of instruments?

Oh, no. The story behind that guitar was that Leo was a huge stickler for not keeping prototypes around. There were two of those — the first one was cut up and the second was thrown in the trash. George pulled it out of the trash. He was young and had just started working with the company; he was a guitar player and this was his creation too! He and Leo went to little bars and shows and listened to players. Without telling them what they were up to, they asked the players what they would want in a guitar, which became the basis for their business and designs: being able to change small parts out easily and being able to easily change the neck on a guitar. There was a bit of a stigma attached to their early instruments because they weren’t craftsman pieces — they were functional instruments.

Yes, they were outside the instrument crafting tradition. This was a modernist piece of design, rather than following classical instrument-building traditions.

Exactly. So when I started researching all the K&Fs, I talked to George who was there just after Doc left, and I got as much information as I could from the closest source. Strangely, though they made guitars and amps in sets, many of the guitars still exist while most of the amps do not. I figure that the guitar is a functional piece and all you have to do is change the strings, but if you have an amp go out, it might have been easier to just go buy another amp.

Was it through the process of reproducing old gear, and speaking with George Fullerton, that you became interested in the 1940s K&F amp?

Yes, that amplifier in particular because it was so simple and because the circuit was kind of the predecessor to the Princeton, but instead of having an 8″ speaker like a Princeton, it had a big, large-magnet, alnico 20-30 watt 10″ speaker. This was late ’44 or early ’45, and these amplifiers were made from military surplus parts, so they were all different and had this unique industrial look about them. Design-wise, it wasn’t made to be the prettiest thing out there — it was made to be functional.

So it was just “The K&F Amplifier” and they only made the one model?

No, see that’s the thing, they made one, and we know the record shows from Doc’s writing on the pictures I have, that the first one they made was beautiful! It had wooden sides, a grille cloth that was embroidered with K&F on the front, and a 15″ speaker. The photo says, This is the first K&F [lap] steel, and this is the first amplifier in the U.S. with a hanging chassis and hanging tubes.” Before that, everything was put on the bottom of the amplifier and the tubes all sat up.

And that amp is gone now?

Yeah, in John Sprung’s book, Fender Amps: The First Fifty Years, he wrote that this amp was made as a custom, one-off piece, and it is likely gone now, since the only pictures we have ever seen of it were the from the 1940s.

That would be a fun one to reproduce, wouldn’t it?

Oh, it would be amazing. There was an article in the October 1998 issue of Guitar Player with a 15″ K&F — the style of the K&F that I am reproducing. It was the same cabinet shape, just larger, and it is the only time I have seen a 15 other than that one custom one-off piece.

So what you had was three or four amps, all without names or model numbers which were essentially prototypes

Yes, they were “if this works we will make another just like it” sort of deals. There were two basic models that you see in published pictures. One is the 8″model that looked like a little lunch box. It had one volume knob and one or two inputs, no pilot light, no fuse, and the cord coming straight out — that was it.

The other is the 10″ model, which is the one I’m reproducing. It had two inputs, no fuse, no pilot light, one tone control, and either one or two volume controls, and two channels — which was something completely new. Each channel ran on one half of the input tube, which is what Fender did until the Blackface era in the ’60s.

It’s not a large amp at only 5-6 watts. The speaker was an unknown Jensen model that had a large, plug-style alnico magnet instead of the horseshoe magnet. I am sure every example varied because the parts all varied — the knobs, transformers, everything. The transformer on the one I am reproducing was a replacement transformer right out of an Allied catalogue made by some unknown manufacturer.

How did you originally come in contact with the amp you decided to reproduce?

I worked with Geoff Fullerton at Fender, who became a good friend of mine. Geoff is George’s son, and was Leo’s personal assistant at G&L for several years. He was a builder and engineer there as well. George’s father used to work at Fender in the wood mill where he ran this huge ripsaw, which George, Geoff and I also ran, so I had become good friends with the family.

George is a wealth of information and a really interesting man to talk to. He has great ideas about how things were done, the reason things were done, and craftsmanship. Even though his guitars were not traditional, the craftsmanship that went into them was impressive. They case-hardened every single one of the screws that went into a guitar, so if you had to repair it, you wouldn’t strip out the threads. Nobody does that kind of thing anymore because it is not cost-effective.

When I talked to George about the amp, he told me about one at the Fullerton Museum owned by Phyllis Fender, Leo’s widow. As he described the amp to me, I decided I wanted to take a look at it. Phyllis said sure, so they pulled it out of the museum for a day. I looked at it, taking every picture and measurement I possibly could. I worked with what I had, but it wasn’t enough to do a reproduction. Later on I was able to go back, and they let me take the chassis down and measure every single component. One thing I couldn’t do was turn it on.

You were able to disassemble this old amp down to the component level?

I was. I took my meters down there and measured everything. Not only did I measure it, but I cross-referenced it to the color code because those resistors and capacitors are 63 years old now and have drifted a lot. One of the things I noticed is that he used many of the components because they were the only things he could get. They weren’t exactly the right value for the position they were in, but he put them in there because they were close enough and that’s what he had.

So, I’m looking at it, and George leans over and says, “You know, you’re the first person who touched the inside of that amp since Leo; you’d better be careful!” Because no one had touched it in all those years, the chassis, being made of steel and zinc plated, was pretty much pure white and powdery — I wasn’t about to leave my fingerprints in it!

Are you going to reproduce the zinc plating and everything?

Oh yeah, but I’m not going to relic it or try to make it look old.

Are there any ground issues getting through the zinc?

Yes, you have to grind away the zinc to get to the steel. And that was one of the things; there’s no circuit board, it’s all point to point, and whatever had to be grounded was run straight to the chassis right there. It was function over form.

What year was the original produced?

I don’t really know if it is one of the earlier or later ones, although I think it is earlier. There is a kind of complex cutaway on the top of the amplifier and a relief on the cord panel that is pretty much decorative. Those two things are also on the 15″ amps that we know were the first ones made. Later examples don’t have either of those features on them, so it is likely an early piece.

Did your experiences at Fender and taking apart the old K&F amp lead to your decision to start an amplifier company?

The K&F thing led directly to my own amplifiers. That amp was amazing and cool, but it was so rudimentary. Boutique amplifiers are becoming a bigger business now and I though it would be interesting to see if I could do my own interpretation of the design.

I was looking at all these beautiful Fender guitars that we were making, the amazing Custom Shop guitars with custom finishes that people wait years for. There are some really nice-looking amplifiers out there, but most of them look like big Tolex suitcases.

It all started me thinking about something that was small enough that you wouldn’t worry about it getting banged around, with the form plus the function, and replicating some of the beauty of the guitar finishes. That really appealed to me – no one was doing that. Finishing it like a guitar, the correct way, is such an art. I wanted to make them so they would match people’s prized instruments.

Over the years, guitars and their finishes have gotten more elaborate, but you aren’t doing that with the new Model 10; it is using simple shape, texture and color for the amplifier, rather than the busy style of many expensive guitars.

I started out spending hours designing cabinets, and the right one just hits you. This one was simple; it effectively gave room for my logo, but with some different elements. I have 1″ radiuses on the corners instead of ¾”, which makes the amp look more spherical, instead of looking like a big square

It gives it a softer, more attractive appearance.

I started the design of the amp with the cabinet, and I got that nice angled swoop to the front, which was simple, not complex — you see some of the amps from the 1940s that had great grilles on them, and some were so complex. Once I got the design for the cabinet down, and I knew that I could physically produce it from a woodworking standpoint, I knew how much space I had, so I could work on the chassis and circuit layout.

Tell me about the Model 10’s circuit and electronic design, and the sounds you were going for.

Well, George introduced me to Bill Sterle who started working at Fender around 1960. Bill is an audio engineer who designed a lot of the original Blackface amps.

Having someone who was there and who designed amps telling me why they made certain decisions is so much different than starting with copies of what Fender, Gibson, or Marshall did. I learned distinction between the amps Bill made and the Fender amps of the 1950s, which were the easiest and simplest designs. The Blackface-era amps were much more complex designs and they were really trying to do different things with the preamps to keep them cleaner.

When Bill was designing things, he stressed that distortion is your enemy — that’s the school of amp design he came from. You have to have the cleanest representation possible. I went to Bill’s house for hours and he would describe everything from tube heater circuit design to what you want to get accomplished in the preamp section, the phase inverter section, and the power section. He told me once you get going on the tone controls, you can go crazy because there are so many variations in tone circuits — not only what you use, but where they are placed.

I wanted to have a 10″ speaker in there. A 10 just has a clarity that you cannot get from an 8″ speaker, and I didn’t want to go as big as a 12. 10s have a really neat sound to them if you find the right one. I knew it was going to be either a small, single-ended design or a cramped, push-pull design. I ended up starting off with a small single-ended design.

So, design wise, you met some of the original guys who developed modern guitar amps, and took it from there, as if you were in that era.

Oh yeah, and every single element that was put in the amp was based on what I was trying to accomplish in the circuit, not based on something I was trying to copy. My initial intention was to make it really straight and clean, without a ton of bells and whistles. It is a single-ended design with a 6V6 power section and a 12AX7 preamp tube.

I looked at a lot of Internet message boards for guys who are building amps, and for players in general, to find out what kind of modifications they were making and what they wanted out of an amp. I tried to keep it really simple and clean, but I did put in a few things that I thought would expand the tone a little more.

Is there a tube rectifier?

No tube rectifier in this. In such a small, single-ended amp that putting one in would be more of a novelty than anything functional. Not putting one in allowed me to use a smaller power transformer and to clean up the power and make it more stable, along with giving me more space to do other things in the chassis. Also, when I went back and talked to Bill Sterle, he threw his hands up and said, “Tube rectifiers are absolutely worthless!” [Laughs]

My impression is that stout, well-built power supplies produce robust tones, especially at high levels. When you are pushing the amp, and you’re not clobbering the power supply, the amp doesn’t freak out as much. If I want a little sag and compression, I use a compressor!

Well, yeah. It’s all relative though, because there is a ratio between the voltage and the current that the plates see. You push harder, sand the plates, and try to draw more current. If the current isn’t there, then there is going to be a difference in the tone.

I started with a solid-state rectifier and that is the only solid-state piece in the amp. In the preamp, I used more of a Blackface preamp design, where I split the 12AX7 in the middle because the amp only has one channel. I do have two inputs on the amp, but one is just hotter than the other.

So there are only two tubes in the amp?

Only two! It’s simple — there is just a treble and a bass control. With all passive tone controls, if you use the control, there is a certain amount of insertion loss, so on bass control I put a switch so you could remove the tone controls from the circuit completely.

The Model 10 has the standard volume, bass and treble controls; then there is the switch. What does it do?

It takes out the negative feedback loop. You turn that off and bypass the tone controls and it will crunch just like an early tweed Champ. Even with only two tubes and three knobs I wanted to be able to have a range so it isn’t just for one style of play; it is an amp that you can play around with and get a cool tone out of.

It has an amazing array of tones for having so few controls.

I have designs of every shape and size, but this is where I wanted to start. In the larger models, I am going to do a 15-20 watt amp, and I may do as much as a 30-35 watt one as well, though I don’t want to come out with a 100 watt monster.

I think people are starting to re-evaluate how much wattage is really needed.

You know, one of the many helpful things I learned from Bill Sterle was how to test everything correctly. Lots of amp makers out there will say, “This is a 5-watt amp,” and that’s what they assume because a similar one was made by Fender, but Fender tested where the wattage comes up just before distortion, on every one, and that’s how we test as well.

The Model 10 puts out almost exactly 5 watts. It has a cathode bias power section and I go through and measure every single one of those tubes and every single output section of each amp to make sure it is right for this design. I don’t want to run these as hot as I possibly can to get every last watt out of them, because it is hard on tubes. I offer NOS tubes as an upgrade, and they are not making any more of them! I run them right in the middle where you get great tone and good longevity.

What tubes have you been using?

Right now I am using Electro-Harmonix preamp tubes and JJ power tubes. I think the JJ 6V6 is a really neat tube. They can handle a lot of plate current, and they sound good.

If somebody wants a Model 10, how long would it take?

I have all of the parts ready to go, but I have a six to eight week lead time on the custom-colored cabinets, including shipping. It takes about four weeks for the paint to be completely finished, because it has to be perfect. It is a guitar finish on the Model 10 and it’s done just like any expensive guitar finish. The amps are built to order, though I may stock certain colors here and there.

It’s exciting to see the founding of a company with such an amazing product. Do you have a price set for the Model 10?

It looks like the Model 10 will be $1050, at least as an initial release price.

You spoke earlier of having several color choices and perhaps some clear finishes on nice wood available.

The cabinets right now are poplar for the solid colors, and ash or alder depending on whether the finish is a blonde or sunburst one, just like a guitar.

If someone asked you what your amp sounds like, what would you say?

Well, what I was trying to achieve was a combination of the tweed Champ and Princeton, combined with a Blackface Champ and Princeton. I wanted to be able to combine all four of those amps together so you could get a really grungy, overdriven, tweed tone or a really clean, clear tone with or without tone controls.

Tell me about the K&F reproduction amp, is that currently in the pipeline?

That amp is 99% done. Because this amp has never been done before, and because the parts are not off-the-shelf parts, everything is different from what is currently available. Everything had to be done from scratch; transformers had to be custom wound, and chassis had to be custom made — and the chassis are not normal dimensions by any means. The tubes are all NOS tubes, because there is no current equivalent to them.

It’s an octal socket preamp tube isn’t it — a large base and pins like a power tube? What tube is that?

It’s a 6SC7 medium mu triode and a 6J5 triode in the preamp section. Each channel gets half of that triode. It’s a pretty low-gain tube actually; it’s not overdriving the preamp circuit a lot like the later 12AX7s often do. There is also a 5Y3 rectifier and a 6V6 output tube. Both input signals merge into a 6J5. Instead of putting one channel with one preamp tube, he made two channels that merged into one preamp tube. There’s one volume control for both channels. The circuit is a lot different than a modern amplifier. Leo was doing it to see if it would be functional, and it was very rudimentary and basic.

The octal preamp tubes give a really unique sound to the amp. They don’t drive it very hard, but it does put out a pretty thunderous crunch when you want. I am keeping it as historically correct as I can, with carbon comp resistors, Mallory 150s as the tone caps, and all cloth-covered wiring, which I don’t do in the Model 10. I am not trying to reproduce a look in the Model 10, but am going for the best possible sound, so I’m using all the best components and wiring by today’s standards.

You selected the components for the Model 10 by listening to them, didn’t you?

Yes, but the K&F is a little different. It’s not wired like you would wire something today; it has series heaters, so you get that hum in there that makes for a unique sound. The only changes I made were necessary for safety. Of course, there is a fuse in this one, along with a 3-prong AC plug. Other than that, it is rudimentary in every way. The tube sockets are spot-welded to the chassis.

Did you actually replicate the spot welds?

Oh yeah! Lots of guys would have riveted the sockets in place, but that was an extra expense, so they spot welded them.

It probably had a terrific ground connection.

It does. I found an original output transformer and power transformer and had Mercury Magnetics reproduce them for me. The speaker was a 10″ Alnico plug-style speaker rated at 40 watts for a 5-watt amp, so it was way over-engineered for the circuit. Most Alnico speakers have a horseshoe shaped magnet, but this one has 2½” donut-shaped magnet. It was also used for higher-end audio and larger-wattage amps. It makes for a really heavy speaker, but it’s really neat. This Weber is the closest to the original speaker that is available.

How much is the K&F reproduction amp going to cost, and when will it be available?

I’m trying so hard to get it finished! I am talking to a paint manufacturer about the wrinkle paint we need, and if that works out we’re in business with getting the K&F out. We should be ready in October at the latest, and the cost will be about $1000.

Playing the Amps

I brought my 1987 hardtail Tom Anderson to Byers‘ shop where I got to play through the first Model 10 off the line and a K&F reproduction prototype. Here is a sample of what I heard:

Model 10

The Model 10 is a beautiful amplifier. If your favorite custom guitar builder built an amp, it would look just like this.

The Model 10 is clear and detailed in the way that only minimal circuit paths can be. Set clean, with the tone controls engaged and the feedback loop in, the highs and lows are well-balanced, the tone circuits do what you wish they would, and the result is a sound that makes you want to play more. Turn off the feedback loop and things get woollier and more tweed-like. Switch off the tone controls and the amp gets a more aggressive, throaty attitude going.

K&F Reproduction

The K&F reproduction amp is totally different from the Model 10 and totally different from almost anything I have ever heard. I can almost hear Charlie Christian playing one and I suspect that today’s players will find musical uses for this tone. The K&F reproduction is very big and a bit wooly-sounding, yet not muffled or dull at all. It gets pretty powerful sounding when you push it hard.

Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/PremierGuitar/PremierG-10.htm

Tim digs into a stock Orange AD200 Bass MK3. He details stripping the amp to its chassis and turning it into a point-to-point handwired amp with high-quality components.

For the past couple of months, I’ve found myself acting as bass player for a new band. It’s been a bit of a change of gears for me as I’m usually playing guitar or lap steel. In playing bass, I found myself with a need for feeding my desire for headroom — a need that can only be satiated with lots of big power tubes and stacks of speakers. I purchased an Orange AD200 bass head with their matching 4×10 and 1×15 bottoms.

In its stock configuration it’s a formidable rig to be sure. I was very impressed with the power, tone and range that it had to offer, even when trying to keep up with a very loud drummer. I played it joyfully for a few months and didn’t have a single complaint. What a happy and content fellow I was… yet… I always have this little nagging voice in the back in my head saying, “what if I changed some components? Sure I’m happy now, but couldn’t I be happier?” And so it always seems to begin with the little nagging voice that I keep listening to against my better judgment. The same voice that often leaves me sitting at my bench, head in hands thinking, why did I start this project? I was so content! WHY?

The concept of changing only a few key components was quickly forgotten once I committed to this project (and had a screwdriver in hand). I gutted the amp to the bare chassis. Out came the printed circuit board (Figure 1) with its board-mounted tube sockets, pots, transformers — everything.

Figure 1: Before gutting.

With the chassis completely stripped, it was time to lay out, measure and drill new holes for the upgraded chassis mounted tube sockets. As the new power tube sockets needed a bit more room than the PCB mounted ones, a Dremel Tool with a coarse sanding drum bit was used to enlarge the holes. Care was taken to make sure that the pin alignment made sense with the lay of the future wires before drilling the mounting holes used to bolt the sockets to the chassis. While I had the drill in hand, I also enlarged the front panel’s pot holes to accommodate the larger upgraded pots that were going to be installed. The placement for the circuit board mounting holes were also located/drilled, as was the location of the ground lugs that were going to be used in the star grounding scheme.

Figure 2: Removing the guts.

One of the most time consuming things for me when building a “one off” amp is the chassis layout. If done properly, it makes the rest of the assembly more of a connect-the-dots type of process. If done in a haphazard and incomplete way, one finds themselves drilling extra holes and routing wires in a way that may not be as professional looking or functional. In high gain designs, a poor layout can lead to excess noise and frustration.

Trying to work within a pre-existing framework is even more of a challenge. It would have been easier to start from scratch with a blank chassis, but I wanted to retain the “Orangeness” of the amp. After all, I am using the original schematic for the project, as it is a fantastic design. I just wanted to upgrade the components and make it a bit more serviceable and rugged.

After mounting the tube sockets (I prefer the Micalex sockets made by Belton) it was now time to select the components to be loaded onto the circuit boards. Unfortunately, this will have to wait for the next installment.

Selection of the parts to be used in a design with a given purpose is an important task. Almost every part in an amplifier makes a difference in the tone — starting with the quality of the AC coming out of the wall, to the power cord, all the way through to the speaker and into the room where the natural acoustics can make or break all of your hard work and tone. Some are pronounced differences, some a bit more subtle. If you add a dozen subtle nuances together, you get a pretty big nuance.

So, how does one wade through the endless amounts of caps, resistors, transformers and other “magical components” available on the market these days? Well, if you’re lucky enough to have the time and financial windfall that we all dream of having, then you can spend your life experimenting, buying and selling great gear without a care in the world. Hopefully, you’re able to develop a relationship with an artist or shop that you can trust and use them as a sounding board. Ultimately, you need to learn to trust your ears. Some of the best sounding amps that I’ve heard have been made with the cheapest, crummiest components. If it sounds right to you, than it is right!

A word of caution: Experimenting can be very fun and rewarding, but it’s easy to get too caught up in the bells and whistles. Don’t forget about the music. I found that when testing some different capacitors in one of my favorite amps that one of the caps sounded much “better” then the other. When I put the “better” sounding cap in and played, I found myself analyzing the sound in every way, from the bass response to the singing highs and, of course, how it felt. When I put the “inferior” cap in, I would start to play, get lost, look at the clock and realize that a half hour had blown by and I didn’t even listen to the cap because I was lost in the music! The “inferior” cap has lived in my amp ever since.

Figure 3: New sockets.

Figure 4: F&T electrolytics power supply caps.

My goal for this project was to “open up” the tone and feel of this already great amp. I wanted tight, slamming bass and open and airy highs with a bit more harmonic interaction. For the power supply caps, I used F&T electrolytics (Figure 4). I like them because of their reasonable size, cost, sound and feel. They are quiet and powerful enough to get good, solid bass without making the amp too fast and therefore not as musical or sweet.

For the coupling caps, I decided on Sprague Orange Drops. I use type 716 as they have a higher quality lead and are a bit more accurate they their 715 brethren. The Orange Drops, while perhaps not as sweet sounding as other choices, have a nice tight bass response with a slightly pinched top end that seems to help with harmonic content and punch. A client described their feel as “walking on packed sand instead of dry loose sand” — perfect for this bass amp.

For resistors, I use different types depending on where they are in the circuit. I don’t like to use carbon comps anywhere that the resistor may be tormented by excessive heat or where it may be prone to inject thermal noise into the signal. I will use them with regularity on the input, for example, but don’t like to use them as plate loads. Of course the brand of resistor has as large an impact as the overall construction. In places where matching and stability are important, I’ll use high-quality metal films.

The pots for this project were a mix of Clarostat Mil Spec. and CTS (CTS because I didn’t have all the values in the Clarostat). I use different types of wire throughout the amps that I build depending on the wire’s purpose. As signal wire, I use certain types of hook-up wire made for the audiophile market. For the B+ and power supply, along with the grounds on the star, I used a high-quality copper multi-strand.

Figure 5: Components installed.

Once all of the parts are selected, they’re laid out and mounted to thick glass component boards (Figure 5) with very sturdy standoffs for ease of mounting. Silicone is applied between caps to create a cushion and help to dampen any unwanted smearing of the signal or microphonics due to rogue vibrations. Paul from Mercury Magnetics sent me a set of beefy transformers that looked quite handsome dressed in their orange end bells.

With the boards made and everything in its place and wired, it was time to fire this creature up and check the voltages at key locations. Using a Variac, voltages are brought up to full power slowly. This is done for a couple of reasons. The first reason is so the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply can form their dielectrics. The second, and perhaps more important, reason is so I can keep an eye on the voltage ratios to make certain that everything is hooked correctly before I install the tubes and risk their lives (and my wallet).

One thing that I appreciate about this design is that Orange took the time (and expense) to design a power transformer and power supply that would deliver 600+ volts to the plates of the power tubes with roughly half of that on the screens. This allows you to get the benefits of high plate voltage (headroom and power) while maintaining a safe operating environment for the power tubes. Now that we’re certain everything is safe and sound, the power tubes (Svetlana “winged c” KT88s) and preamp tubes (mix of NOS RCA and Sylvania) are installed and biased.

Though I’ve been building and modding amps daily for a few decades now, every so often I’m surprised by an end result. With the first strum of the strings, I was floored by the increased headroom, clarity and bell like tones coming out of this powerful amplifier. The change and added versatility in preamp/overdrive section was a pleasant surprise as well. While originally designed as a bass amp, it is fantastic for guitar and pedal steel as well. In retrospect, I’m very glad that I went through the trouble and expense to rebuild this amplifier. It has become my “go to” for almost every application. Long live headroom and power!

Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/PremierGuitar/PremierG-22.htm

I am often asked how upgrading an amplifier’s transformers will improve tone. It’s a simple enough question, but the answer is a little complex. First off, let’s examine what an output transformer is and why someone would inquire about replacing it. Then we’ll get to some things to consider when replacing your amp’s transformer.

The output transformer in a push-pull guitar amplifier is the last stage of the audio path before getting to a speaker—it’s one of the large blocks of metal mounted to the amp chassis (or speaker, as is sometimes seen in older amps). The transformer’s function is to convert the high-voltage/low-current signal from the amplifier’s power tubes into a low-voltage/high-current signal to power the speakers at a low impedance. It is responsible for how efficiently the audio power of an amp will transfer to the load of the speakers, and it prevents hundreds of volts (DC) from passing to the speakers.

There are different reasons why a person would want to change their output transformer—the most obvious being a blown or damaged unit. This can happen when an amp is operated without a proper load, such as not having a speaker plugged into the amp or driving a different speaker impedance than the one the output transformer is looking for. Another reason to replace a transformer is to upgrade quality and tone. Because transformers are the most expensive component of an amplifier, it is common for amp manufacturers to cut costs on the size and quality of them. A large transformer simply has more iron, so not only are the material costs higher, the weight of heavier transformer will affect a manufacturer’s shipping costs.

In regards to tone and how an output transformer affects it, it’s my opinion that an output transformer does not change an amp’s character. A new transformer will not change an amp’s DNA or make a Marshall sound like a Vox. After all, an amplifier’s tone is the sum of all of its parts—tubes, capacitors, wiring, speakers, etc. If you were to run clean water through an old, dirty water filter, you would ruin what the water had to offer before being filtered. It would still be water, but changed in a way that detracted from what it could have been. The output transformer plays a very large role, but is not everything in shaping an amp’s tone. Upgrading it takes what the amp already is, and then enhances it. Physically larger output transformers generally sound larger, since they have a larger window for tone to flow through. Tone is usually clearer, fuller and truer.

If upgrading or replacing your amp’s output transformer is in your plans, there are a few things to consider. First, and most importantly, the amp should be unplugged, all tubes should be removed, and all voltages in the amp should be fully discharged. There are lethal voltages inside an amplifier, so do not service your amp if you don’t know how to properly discharge all voltage.

Secondly, be aware of the different mounting styles of transformers. There are three basic mounting styles: vertical, horizontal, and flat. Vertically mounted transformers sit taller than they are wide, with the laminates in a vertical position and the end bells positioned perpendicular to the chassis. Horizontally-mounted transformers are still a vertical mount, but are tipped on their sides and are wider than they are tall. Transformers that are mounted flat have the laminates facing horizontal, and the bell ends are stacked vertically. One should also note if the transformer is a two-hole or four-hole mount, and that the mounting holes will not line up exactly if the transformer you are replacing is not an exact replica. In such cases, it will be necessary to carefully mark and drill new mounting holes into the amp’s chassis.

Finally, make sure the replacement transformer will physically fit on the chassis and in the cabinet it’s going into. It is easy to forget the size of the speaker and its affect on the space left in the cabinet. Measure twice to avoid disappointment!

It is very important to note the wiring of the old output transformer. I often clip the old transformer leads and leave a little bit of the old wire so I can see the color and location of the original. Keep in mind that green or black is not always ground, and that manufacturers often use different colors for the ground. A new replacement transformer should come with a schematic, so pay careful attention to it and note the proper wiring.

With the new transformer installed and all wiring and solder joints double-checked, it’s time to turn on the amp. Before doing so, be sure to turn all pots all the way down. If the primary leads on the transformer are reversed—a simple mistake to make—the amp will produce a loud squeal. And if the volume were to be up with this squeal, it would scare the life out of anyone. A simple swapping of the leads going to the power tube plates will take care of this issue. It is a good idea to use a variac to ramp the amp’s voltage up gradually, going easy on the new output transformer’s maiden voyage. When the amp is running at full-voltage, you should then turn the amp off, reinstall the tubes, turn it back on, and double-check the power tube bias. The new output transformer will need to break-in over time, but all that’s left now is enjoying your amplifier’s improved tone!

Remember that an amplifier’s tone is the sum of all of its parts. The output transformer is one very important part that easily gets overlooked and often suffers from cost-cutting-minded amp builders. So experiment! After all, your amp is your voice, so why not make it the best voice it can be?

Source: https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/Why_and_How_to_Replace_Your_Amplifiers_Output_Transformer

Amp Transformers, Output Transformers & Chokes

We always maintain a steady flow of gear arriving for review, but sometimes we also employ a fascinating if time-consuming research strategy that involves logging onto eBay, picking a broad category such as “guitar amplifiers,” and settling in for as long as it takes to patiently scroll through every page of listings. Yeah, that’s often 50 pages or more, but since we can’t possibly think of all the items that might interest us and search for them by name, it’s far more revealing and productive to just hunker down and scroll. Rarely do we fail to find something intriguing that would have otherwise been missed, and such was the case on a morning in August when we stumbled on a listing for a 1959 tweed Deluxe. Were we looking for a tweed Deluxe? Nope. Wouldn’t have crossed our mind at the time…. We had already reviewed 5E3 reproductions from Fender, Clark and Louis Electric within the past 3 years, and we have frequently referenced our 1958 Tremolux as being our desert island #1. Isn’t a Tremolux just a tweed Deluxe with tremolo in a bigger box? No… not even close. That would be like saying you wanted to date a blonde – any blonde. For the record, our fixed bias Tremolux possesses a cleaner tone with a bigger, booming voice created by the taller Pro cabinet. The Two Fifty Nine is a completely different animal….

Sporting a February 1959 date code on the tube chart, the ’59 had been listed by a seller in Arkansas who turned out to be Tut Campbell, formerly a well-known guitar dealer in Atlanta. Still buying and selling gear, Campbell had described the Deluxe as being in original condition with the exception of a replace output transformer – a big old mono block Stancor dating to 1957. Given the otherwise original condition of the Deluxe, which included the Jensen P12R, we made Campbell a “best off” below his asking price and scored the amp for $1,850 shipped. We wouldn’t say we stole the Deluxe, but it seemed a fair price of admission for the opportunity to experience and explore still another rare classic and supremely worthy piece of Fender history on your behalf.

The Deluxe arrived with the big Stancor dangling from the chassis despite Campbell’s careful packaging. Wasn’t his fault, really – in a feeble effort to avoid any additional holes being drilled in the chassis, the fellow who installed the Stancor in the ’60s had merely tightened set screws over the small tabs at the base of the heavy tranny, which was designed to be mounted upright – not hanging upside down in a guitar amplifier. Of more concern was the fact that while the amp was lighting up, there was no sound…. Well, we’ve been here before, so we made a call to God’s Country and the Columbus, Indiana domicile of Terry Dobbs – Mr. Valco to you. We had already set aside a spare output transformer (Lenco, McHenry, IL) that had been the original replacement installed in our ’58 Tremolux when we first received it, replaced with a Mercury Magneticsfor our June ’07 review article. Mr. Valco cheerfully answered his phone and as we explained the situation with the Deluxe he agreed to walk us through the installation of the new replacement – a simple process involving four lead wires being connected to the rectifier and output tube sockets, and the speaker jack. As long as you put the correct wires in the right place, a piece of cake, and we had the new tranny in within 10 minutes. Pilot lamp and all tubes glowing, still no sound…. Valco patiently guided us through a series of diagnostics with the multi-meter and the Deluxe was running on all cylinders, pumping 380 volts. Stumped, and with the hour growing late, we called it a day. Leaving the mysteriously neutered Deluxe chassis on the bench until tomorrow.

Morning came with a whining voice delivering a plaintive wake up call – “It’s got to be something stupid and simple….” Inspired by a huge steaming mug of Jamaican High Mountain meth, we sat back down at the bench, tilted the innards of the Deluxe chassis forward beneath a bright halogen desk lamp and peered in for answers. We began slowly examining the chassis in sections, looking for broken or dull solder joints, loose or broken wires, while gently pushing and prodding wires and connections with the eraser tip of a #2 pencil as we had seen Jeff Bakos do so often at his bench. After ten minutes or so we were about to give up, when we turned our attention to several places where the circuit was grounded to the chassis adjacent to the volume and tone pots, and damned if a solder joint for one of the uninsulated ground wires hadn’t separated from the chassis. No ground, no sound, and as soon as we had restored the solder joint the Two Fifty Nine arose from the dead with a mighty A major roar.

The amp was indeed remarkably well-preserved in all respects, with the typical amber patina of old tweed. The burnished chrome control panel remained bright and clean with no corrosion, the original handle remained intact, and a couple of small ciggie burns on the edge of the cabinet added a stamp of historic legitimacy to the Deluxe’s pedigree. The top half of the Jensen’s frame was coated in a fine film of red clay dust from the Delta, and while the cone was in remarkably good shape with no tears, an audible voice coil rub called for a recone. We would send the speaker to Tom Colvin’s Speaker Workshop in Ft. Wayne, Indiana, requesting that he leave the original unbroken solder joints for the speaker wires intact if possible.

Meanwhile the first order of business was to listen to an assortment of NOS tubes from our stash, and audition no less than a half dozen speakers. Different sets of power tubes and individual preamp tubes will sound surprisingly different, so we started out with a matched pair of NOS RCA 6V6s, a GE 5Y3 rectifier, and an RCA 12AX7 and 12AY7. From there we subbed in a dozen different RCA, Amperex, Tesla and GE 12AX7s, noting varying levels of brightness, warmth and intensity among them all. For an edgier, more aggressive voice, the GEs and Amperex typically deliver the goods, while RCAs produce a slightly warmer, richer, fuller tone. We also experimented with a 12AT7 and 12AX7 in place of the lower gain 12AY7, and while those tubes ramp up gain and distortion faster and with more intensity than the 12AY7, they seemed like overkill for us. Our Deluxe possesses a tone of gain using the stock 12AY7.

Rather than repeatedly reloading the Deluxe with different speakers, we used a Bob Burt 1×12 cabinet built from 100-year-old pine for our speaker tests. The original Jensen had never been pulled from our amp, but multiple speaker replacements in an old Fender inevitably cause the speaker mounting screws to loosen in the baffleboard, making speaker swaps unnecessarily clumsy and complicated. When we do run into loose mounting screws, we simply run a few small drops of Super Glue around the base of the screw and surrounding wood. Allow to dry and your screws will stay put provided that you don’t torque the nuts on the mounting screws like an idiot with a socket wrench. Don’t be that guy,

We tested a range of speakers that included a Celestion G12H 70thAnniversary, Colvin-reconed ’64 Jensen C12N, Eminence Wizard, Private Jack, Alnico Red Fang, Teas Heat, Screaming Eagle, Red, White & Blues, and Warehouse Green Beret, Veteran 30, Alnico Blackhawk and Alnico Black & Blue. The Alnico speakers generally produce a tighter, smoother, slightly more compressed tone, with a variable emphasis on upper mid-range and treble frequencies, while the speakers with ceramic magnets possess a wider, more open sound. Higher power ratings of 75W-100W offered by the Red, White & Blues, Screaming Eagle and Warehouse Blackhawk typically translate into more graceful handling of bass frequencies, and in a 20 watt Deluxe, zero speaker distortion, for a clean, powerful voice.

Let’s cut to the chase with speaker evaluations, shall we? It has become clear to us that even after reviewing a dozen speakers in as much detail as mere words allow in a single article, many of you remain uncertain about which speaker to choose. No kidding. We would absolutely love to hand you a single magic bullet when it comes to speaker swaps, but here’s the dirty little secret about choosing speakers…. The overall character of the amp you will be installing your new speaker in is critical, and to some extent, the type of guitars and pickups you play most often are important, too. Tailoring your sound with the unique gear you play is not a one-size fits-all proposition – you have to invest some thought into the process. Are you going for a classic “scooped” American Fendery tone, or something more British, with a bit of an aggressive edge and upper midrange voice? Are you playing guitars with single coil pickups or humbuckers? Is there a specific, signature tone you are searching for, or are you playing a wide variety of musical styles that requires a broader range of tones? Do you like the more open sound of speakers with ceramic magnets, or the smoother compression of Alnico? What are you not hearing from your amp and the speaker that’s in it now? Do you want a brighter tone, darker, better bass response, or fuller, more prominent mids? Do you want to really drive the speaker and hear it contributing to the overdriven sound of your amp, or do you want a big, clean tone with no speaker distortion in the mix? The truth is, if you don’t know what you want, you are far less likely to get it. On the other hand, nothing is accomplished with paralysis by analysis. To be perfectly honest, there are lots of speakers made by Celestion, Eminence, Warehouse and, if you can wait long enough for them to break in, Jensen, that we could and would be perfectly happy with, but we would also choose them carefully, taking into account all the factors mentioned above. After a couple of days spent swapping speakers, we ultimately concluded that we preferred the ’64 C12N for a classic tweed Deluxe tone, and a broken-in Celestion G12H 70th Anniversary for the most mind-altering 18 watt Marshall tone we have ever heard. Seriously. More on that in a minute….

Having split more than a few hairs with our speaker swaps, it was time to start picking nits off of gnats with some output transformer evaluations. We first contacted Dave Allen of Allen Amplification, who also stocks Heyboer transformers built to his specs. We found a variety of appropriate output transformers on Allen’s site that offered subtle variations on a stock original Deluxe OT, and we asked Dave to describe the TO26 model we wished to try in the Deluxe:

“The TO26 was intended as a hot rodding upgrade to a stock Deluxe Reverb OT. While maintaining the stock 3-1/8” mounting centers, its fat stack of hotter core steel and multi-tap secondary make it a good choice for builders wanting to maximize the performance of a pair of 6V6s and who may also want to push the envelope with 6L6/5881s while still being able to clear the speaker in a stock cabinet. There are physical limitations in small amps, so its short low profile is welcome. The orientation of the laminations is also good for low hum pick up from the power transformer. I found that an OT mounted the tall way (like my TO30D) picks up considerably more hum simply due to its orientation to the power transformer, so, shoe-horning a ‘tallish’ OT into your amp may cause it to pick up hum from the power transformer – not much of an upgrade. “The TO26’s 7K to 8 or 16 ohm rating makes it ideal for a pair of 6V6s as well as 3,500 ohm to 4 or 8 rating for 6L6/5881s. Notice you always have an 8 ohm option with both types of power tubes. An impedance switch could be wired (I use a blackface grounding switch) as a power tube type selector for an 8 ohm speaker to go between 6V6s and 6L6s. The TO26 will typically give slightly more output with 6V6s due to its more efficient low-loss core steel and will keep the bass clean longer for more perceived clean headroom. As it takes the most watts to reproduce the bass, you notice distortion there first, and since Fender-type amps are so bass heavy, you can quickly hit the wall with headroom, so a noticeable increase in clean bass response certainly feels like a more powerful amp with the TO26. It is kind of like you installed a new speaker with a larger ceramic magnet that is more efficient than the old speaker. The amp is a little louder and the bass a little tighter or cleaner.

“There seem to be a lot of 6L6-based 5E3 amps out there now to get a little clean headroom from a circuit normally not known for much of that. The TO26 is a good choice for that type of amp as it will fit typical available chassis and cabinets. It has extra long 12” topcoat leads ready to strip and solder. I would reckon it would handle up to about 30 watts before starting to saturate and compress – plenty of cathode-biased 6L6s. I find that the Heyboer paper stick-wound and interleaved output transformers with premium core steel and heavy core stacks have typically better clarity or definition than ‘stock’ OTs. Call it fidelity or whatever you want – just clearer distorted and complex tones and better separation of notes in chords, etc. I use the TO26 in the Allen Sweet Spot, Accomplice Jr. and Hot Fudge with Nuts amps with excellent results. All of these amps can use either 6V6 or 6L6 power tubes. You know how a 5F6-A or Super Reverb has that huge 4 bolt OT for a pair of 6L6s to get the maximum clean bottom end? That is sort of what the TO26’s OT is to a pair of 6V6s. It just doesn’t even come close to saturating.

When we informed Dave that we planned to run the Deluxe with 6L6/5881 power tubes as well as 6V6s, he recommended that we try the TO26 since it had been specifically designed for such applications. He also sent a smaller TO20 transformer, described as being designed with a wider 1-1/4′′ lamination “fat stack” that provides 60% additional core mass than typical ¾′′ stack units for improved performance. The TO20 is a direct replacement for Blues Jr. and Princeton Reverb amps, and also suitable for dual EL-84 amps with an 8 ohm load.

Mr. Valco also sent us a replacement 5E3 output transformer he had bought on sale from Clark Amplification a few years ago made for Mike Clark by Magnetics Components in Schiller Park, IL – a company that has been producing transformers since 1943, having been the primary supplier for Valco and various Gibson amps in the ’50s and ’60s. A call to the company revealed that ToneQuest ReportV12. N1. Nov. 20104the transformer Valco sent was essentially their replacement for a Deluxe Reverb, model #40-18002 without bell ends per Clark’s request. We also learned that the company offers a complete range of Classic Tone vintage power and output transformers, including a reverse-engineered clone of a ’55 Triad 5E3 output tranny, model #18022.

We also contacted Paul Patronete at Mercury and requested a ToneClone “brown Deluxe” output transformer, since Larry Cragg had provided them with specific measurements from original OT in Neil’s ’61 tweed Deluxe, confirming that it was indeed a ’61–’62 brown Deluxe tranny. With a total of 6 output transformers to listen to, we took the Deluxe to Jeff Bakos, who set up a rig on his bench that enabled us to clip in each transformer and very quickly switch back and forth between them as we played a guitar through the amp. Are we having fun yet? Here’s what we heard:

Lenco – An excellent authentic “vintage” vibe for those that prefer the classic, if somewhat murkier sound of a tweed amp being pushed, lots of sag in the low end and a jangly pop in the top. And “old,” rather “lo-fi” sound indicative of the ’50s era amps.

Magnetics Components Clark Deluxe 18002 – Similar to the Lenco, but stronger and more robust, with a prominent growling character and voice. Thick, wooly and willin’ with better treble presence and clear string definition then the Lenco, yet an entirely “vintage” character. This tranny is comparable to those found in Deluxe amps from the brown era through silverface. Excellent power, punchy and fat with exceptional clarity and tone.

Magnetic Components 5E3 Clone – Percussive and dynamic with a faster attack response than the Clark/Deluxe Reverb version, this transformer was reverse-engineered from an original ’55 Deluxe OT. IT imparts an intense, throaty tweed character with enhanced mid and treble presence, remarkable clarity, and an authentic vintage ’50s vocal tone with softer bass response and slightly less volume and power than the Deluxe 18002.

Allen/Heyboer TO20 – An interesting variation with a much more modern, percussive dynamic character. The sound was not as heavy and imposing in the vintage style, and with this transformer the Deluxe reminded us of the more refined sound of a Fender Princeton, with excellent dynamic punch for slide and Allen/Heyboer TO26 – As advertised, the low end held up loud and proud with very little sag and an audibly higher threshold of clean headroom, although beyond 6 on the volume control the Deluxe was still holding nothing back. Overall, this transformer imparts a cleaner, high fidelity tone with more clarity and stout bass response than a typical stock 5E3 transformer. An excellent choice for enhanced low-end and maximum volume.

Mercury Magnetics brown Deluxe – Immediately recognizable, the Mercury displayed a trademark sound that is smooth, exceptionally musical, warm and balanced. Sounding more “high fidelity” than the Lemco or Magnetic Components transformers, but still seductively unruly enough to get yer ya-ya’s out. Sweet, rich, detailed and sticky.

Now, you may be wondering why we would bother to audition so many output transformers…. How much difference can it make? Well, forty-odd years ago when someone rigged that old Stancor tranny in the Deluxe, the only choice available to most repair shops was whatever was on hand in the scrap pile. Today we can shape the tone and dynamic response of an amp with a variety of “vintage” or more modern, custom transformers that allow us to recapture the original sound and feel of the amp, or improve upon the original design. Why did Cesar Diaz install output transformers for a Twin Reverb in Stevie’s Super Reverb amps, and Bassman transformers in his Vibroverbs? Because the first thing that chokes and overwhelms a smaller output transformer are the bass frequencies, and Cesar wanted Stevie’s amps to produce a rock-solid, thundering low end that could handle his massive wound strings. The tone we’re celebrating with our ’59 Deluxe is quite the opposite…. The raucous sound of the amp teetering on the edge is the key to it’s exploding tone, but if you wanted to go in the opposite direction with more headroom and a tighter low end, transformers like the TO26 have been specifically designed for that purpose. We once replaced the output transformer in our Pro reverb with a bigger MercuryToneClone Bassman, and the Pro grained a tone of clean headroom and unyielding bottom. Wanna make it even harder still? Use a plug-in diode rectifier in place of the 5AR4 rectifier tube. No saggy britches now. As with so many choices we make in the Quest for tone, the final decision comes down to your mission and individual taste, and Jeff agreed that between the Heyboer TO26, both Magnetic Components trannies and the Mercury brown Deluxe, the question wasn’t which one was “best” – all four were exceptional, but different. Some players would prefer one over another for different reasons described here, but all of them represent stellar examples of just how far we’ve come since the day that old Stancor tranny was used to put the Two Fifty Nine back into service.

One last detail needed to be addressed…. Could we safely run the Deluxe with 5881s or 6L6s if we preferred that sound over 6V6s? Once again, we asked the prescient Mr. Valco for some Hoosier insight:

“The impedance mismatch in this particular amp using the 6L6s is really not a big concern, it won’t hurt the amp and will either sound good or it won’t. The 6L6s draw 1.8 amps and two 6V6s draw 0.9 amp, so using the 6L6s will add about 1 amp more current draw that the power transformer needs to supply from the 6.3 volt heater windings. On some small 6V6 amps, using 6L6s can and does cause the power transformer to run hotter because more current equates to more heat. The concern is that the power transformer in the Deluxe, not being a large one to start with, has the extra 1 amp of heater current capacity to safely use the 6L6s. One way to determine if the power transformer is really stressed out with the 6L6s is to measure the AC heater voltage on pins 2 and 7 on the power tube sockets (or on the pilot lamp) and see if the AC voltage drops significantly from the reading using 6V6s versus 6L6s. It should be a bit over 6.3 volts AC with the 6V6 anyway (since the wall voltage is higher these days than in the early ’60s) and with the 6L6s you sure don’t want to see a large drop in voltage below 6.3 volts AC. If there is a large drop it means the transformer is having trouble supplying enough current for the 6L6 heaters if given enough time with the 6L6s could damage the power transformer. If the drop is only a few 10th of a volt, and doesn’t go below 6.3 AC, then it would indicate that the transformer is supplying the demand for the heater current and should be OK. Most Fender amps used power transformers that could handle some extra current demand.

And now we arrive at the moment of truth. We’ve been steadily reeling in a parade of new and classic amps for review in these pages for 12 years now this month – Marshall, Fender, Magnatone, Hiwatt, Vox, Valco, Silvertone, Ampeg, Gibson, Gretsch, Mesa Boogie, Park, Supro, Dickerson, Traynor, Budda, Western Auto, Standel, Dumble, Cornell, Clark, Crate, Divided by 132, Reeves, Bad Cat, Gabriel, Fuchs, Koch, Star, Category 5, 65 Amps, Balls, Bakos, Callaham, Blankenship, Reinhardt, Grammatico, Siegmund, Chicago Blues Box, Roccaforte, Headstrong, Rivera, Mad Professor, Talos, Maven Peal, Reverend, BC Audio, Savage, Goodsell, Fargen, Carol-Ann, DST, Two Rock, Germino, Matchless, Louis Electric, Swart, Demeter, Juke, Aiken, Bluetron, DeArmond, Carr, Victoria, and Dr. Z, with more coming. Lots of amplifiers, multiple models from the same builders, and among the foremost classics – Fender, Marshall, Vox, Hiwatt, Gibson, Ampeg and the entire Valco catalog, we have acquired, optimized and restored dozens of amps considered to be among the most desirable vintage models ever built. In the 20 watt wheelhouse occupied by the Two Fifty Nine, it has no equal by a mile. Game over.

After a lot of back and forth testing with different sets of output tubes, we became hooked on the thundering sound produced by a pair of Philips small-bottle 6L6WGBs. Thanks to Larry Pogreba’s talent for scavenging rare tubes (in Montana, no less), we are flush with several outstanding and stout pairs of RCA 6L6s, but the brighter Philips really lit up the Deluxe with a fresh and lively attitude that mirrors the bounce of a newer amp. With the ’64 Jensen C12N loaded, the Deluxe spookily nails the tones of Neil Young’s rig on Ragged Glory – a “studio” recording cut live with the Deluxe and Old Black in a barn on Young’s ranch with Crazy Horse. With the volume backed off to 4-5 a bluesy jangle emerges anchored by solid low end, rich midrange, the sweetest treble tones imaginable, and variable levels of sustain and edgy distortion that can be controlled both by the volume on the guitar and pick attack. The Deluxe does not discriminate between single coils or humbuckers, ravaging both with equal fervor, and the responsive dynamic character of this amp simply is not of this world. Rotating the single tone control sharpens treble without dumping lows or mids, while also subtlety increasing gain, as if you were using a boost pedal. A “Y” cord plugged into the Instrument and Microphone inputs enables the two channels to be mixed with great effect. As Neil Young described, bringing the mic input volume up with the instrument volume set between 6-8 gradually deepens the tone while slowly igniting an intense explosion of thicker second order harmonics and distortion as the dynamic character of the amp softens. Pushing the Instrument volume level up into the 8-12 range brings the volume up to a perceived level that exceeds 20 watts, while provoking an angry, pissed-off cascade of astonishingly rich musical distortion as the notes swerve into controlled harmonic feedback.

Switching from the Jensen to the Celestion transforms the Deluxe into the most stunningly toneful 20 watt Marshall you could possibly imagine. To be honest, you probably can’t imagine it, because we have never heard anything like this ourselves, even after owning a couple of vintage Marshall PA20s, a rare Lead & Bass head and 1×12 cabinet, and a Balls 2×12 18 watt. We could easily live with either speaker, and the Deluxe also just kills pushing our 8 ohm 4×12 pinstripe cabinet.

For those of you who appreciate a somewhat tamer vibe, we can assure you that the Deluxe loaded with a fine pair of 6V6s is equally mind-altering. The overall sound is a wee bit smaller in girth and less imposing, yet abundantly overflowing with vivid harmonic depth, a supremely touch-sensitive response, and brilliant combination of fidelity, clarity and bloom. Compared to a black or silverface Deluxe Reverb, the ’59 presents a more musically complex soundstage, less harsh, stiff and linear, and it lacks both the sharper treble of a blackface amp, and the scooped midrange character. The tone is rounder and meatier, the treble sweeter and less dominant, with an enhanced 3-D image.

Now, if you’re the type that skeptically requires a qualifier to add a stamp of legitimacy to such an over-the-top review, here it is, Mr. Been There-Done That…. The Deluxe doesn’t and won’t spew big clean tones at stage volume. Our ’58 Tremolux produces a cleaner tone with a higher threshold of clean headroom by far at comparable volume levels, and the taller tweed cabinet encourages a stronger, cleaner resonant bass and low mid response. The Tremolux is also equipped with a Mercury ToneClone Tremolux output transformer, which creates a tone that is less wooly, raucous and indistinct.

The busted-up sound of the Tremolux above 5–6 is gloriously righteous indeed, but with more clarity and less provocative intensity than the Deluxe. Taken in context, what we’re suggesting here is that in our experience, the Deluxe has no equal as both a Fender and Marshall style 20 watt rocker (depending on speaker selection), and we’ll add “blues” to that description equipped with 6V6s and the Jensen C12N. During our 2-month test period, we also routinely used our Lee Jackson Mr. Springgy reverb, Analogman-modded Boss DD3 digital delay, and a very cool, versatile (and cheap) Flip tube tremolo pedal reviewed here. Can a modern replica of the 5E3 Deluxe deliver the same inspiring tones as the Two Fifty Nine? The closest thing we’ve heard is the Louis Electric “Buster,” but no, magical happy accidents like this Deluxe can’t be reproduced today – and that is as it should and shall always be. Quest forth…

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Many people, including more than a few amp techs, have the mistaken belief that when it comes to a power transformer, “volts-is-volts,” and upgrading a PT won’t have much of an effect on a guitar amplifier’s overall tone. Not so! My tone transmogrifying tweakers!

The audio circuitry of your amp is completely dependent on the quality of its power supply. The very first component in this food-chain-of-tone is the power transformer. It makes the necessary connection between your amp and the power company. How it behaves sets the standard for your amp’s performance. The PT has a profound affect on your amp’s sonic characteristics especially its ability to handle musical dynamics. What this means to you is crisper note attack, better note separation, and added sparkle in the upper mids and treble frequencies. And keep in mind that with a properly-designed power transformer you’ll hear all-around higher definition with the amp’s clean and dirty tones.

Do not assume that all amp manufacturers know this, or that they have provided your amp with the best possible transformers (unless they are already equipped with Mercurys!). Instead you might just be stuck with low-cost, short-cut transformers. Remember, there are dozens of ways of building cheap transformers to meet certain voltage values but they all fall short of giving your amp the best musical qualities—that’s the magic of Mercury Magnetics!

Which turns you on more? A tranny built only to please a volt meter — or one that maximizes the sonic potential of your amp? You no longer need to be a victim of the sonically-challenged. It’s time to liberate your amp with the only guitar amp transformers actually designed for better sound—Mercury Magnetics.

Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/_misc/FAQ.htm#The_Power_Transformer

For decades, unquantifiable numbers of discussions have wrangled over the main ingredient of amplifier magic. Some amp gurus say it’s the vacuum tubes. Others swear by the capacitors. One question has always remained: Does the transformer have anything to do with an amp’s tone?

At Mercury Magnetics, founder Sergio Hamernik readily acknowledges transformers are a bit of anenigma. Nonetheless, he very firmly believes they are the true foundation of tone.

“They remain the biggest and most misunderstood black hole on the subject of amplifiers and tone,” he said. “But it’s really not all that mysterious. Get an amp’s magnetics right, and everything else falls into place.”

But what does a transformer really do? We recently spoke with Hamernik, posing that question along with a slough of others about the design, purpose, and effect on output “trannies” in guitar amps.

VG: How does a transformer affect the sound of an amp?

SH:A power transformer that’s underbuilt is much the same as an automobile with an under sized engine. Take two cars; one has a five-horsepower engine, the other has 500horsepower. Run them both to 70miles per hour. How long does it take the five-horse to get there?

In an amp, energy has to be converted into sound – and the quality of the transformer determines the quality of the rest of the amplifier. The better the power supply, the faster it will respond to the sonic demands of the player. It’s the amount of energy available; you don’t want to be waiting for the transformer to play catch-up with every note you pluck.

VG: A lot of players believe the main contributor to an amp’s tone are its vacuum tubes.

SH:Tubes are greatly influenced by the reactance of an output transformer and how it’s built. That’s why a Marshall amp sounds different than a Voxor a Fender. It’s the main reason why a Marshall has a distinct output transformer design. When you swap power tubes, the differences in tone are actually quite subtle. But if you replace the output transformer, you have a completely different-sounding amp.

VG: Does that mean some players put a little too much stake in“matched” output tubes?

SH:It’s partly true that you don’t need exactly matched tubes to get great tone. Often, you can get great tone with mismatched tubes if they’re at least operational. An old studio and touring trick was to swap power-tube positions, which often provoked the best tone. The trick was simply taking advantage of the differences in unmatched tubes!

So, while it’s important that tubes be tested for defects, they do not necessarily need to match. Tubes used for pre amp and phase splitters should, as a rule, be matched for balanced operation. The“imbalanced” concept is actually a fundamental design philosophy, noting differences between transformers built for hi-fi audio versus guitar tone.

VG: How’s that?

SH:Output transformers in amplifiers are highly reactive components. Not only are they reactive, they tend to be reactive in a lopsided way,which disturbs the tube into distorting in a manner we find pleasing for its musical qualities.

This introduces a key point; there’s a huge difference in design and execution between hi-fi and guitar amp transformer designs. In order for a guitar amp transformer to sound its best, certain imbalances must be built into its design. With hi-fi, you’re trying to get as clean and undoctored an output signal as you can, without distortion. The opposite characteristics –distortion, overdrive, “grind,” and“crunch” – are the cornerstone of what makes a guitar amp toneful. The term “clean” in a guitar amp actually means “less distorted,” but it’s still a distorted signal.

This reactive element of transformers running imbalanced is key to creating a complex soup we call ampli-fied guitar “tone.” When you’re making good soup, how thick or thin you cut the vegetables, the other ingredients you put in, all affect the flavor. The ingredients are often subjective, but in the end, the effort and attention to detail make all the difference.

Musicians were on the verge of losing the quality of their tone until some-body stepped in to utilize these fundamental principles. At Mercury, we made it out mission to gain the knowledge and craft of how to make guitar amp transformers.

VG: Do they still make transformers like they used to?

SH:No, with Mercury being one of the few exceptions. Consider the quality of the wonderful transformers of the 1950sand early ’60s, when manufacturers were still building to military specifications.

How could this happen. Well, transformers have always been the most expensive parts of an amp, somewhere around 50 percent of the costs. Not to mention they’re often heavy, which affects ship-ping costs. The folks responsible for purchasing face a lot of pressure to get costs down, thus maintaining the trend toward low-budget transformers. So it was inevitable that the “baby” – in this case, tone – got tossed out with the bath water.

Older transformers were designed to meet a power ratio of 6:1, 7:1, or even 8:1, the ratio meaning the power supply rating versus audio output rating. It wasn’t unusual to find 600 watts of power supply on a 100-watt amp. Talk about headroom!By the ’70s, though, price points started having more influence on product than did design, and power ratios started to slim down. Case in point; a popular line of amplifiers that made their mark in the ’60swere built requiring power ratios of 6:1 or8:1. By the ’80s they were dropped to 4:1,3:1, or even 2:1. Today a lot of transformers coming out of Asia are as low as 1.5:1!

Why is this important? Two main reasons; the first is that note separation and the amp’s punch-through characteristics depend on these ratios. The lower the ratio, the less dynamic and more dull-sounding the amp becomes. The second reason has to do with the operating temperature of the transformer. Many reissue amps have undersized transformers with low power-to-audio ratios. With as little as a half hour of play, many of these amps are running hotter than a bitch kitty.

Weak power supplies equate to weak sounding amplifiers. Understanding the relationship of magnetics to tone is the foundation of getting the tone thing right.

VG: Do transformers made with paper tube bobbins sound better than those with nylon?

SH:Paper bobbins will not rescue dull tone. Does wearing the right ball cap make you a better baseball player? Perhaps this myth started when someone compared a great-sounding vintage transformer that happened to have a paper bob-bin with a modern-day generic transformer with a nylon bobbin.

Paper tubes were a cost-cutting measure,first and foremost. They allowed a transformer manufacturer to easily wind more than one coil at a time. Back then, nylon bobbins were a high-priced alternative,but were recognized even then for superior performance.

Another problem plaguing paper bobbins are their sloppy tolerances, which make it difficult for any two transformers to sound the same. And paper tubes tend to collect moisture, which varies the reactive properties of transformer design, and thus,tone. We’ve proven this by taking transformers from highly humid environments and driving the moisture out of them. This procedure noticeably improved tone,brings back detail, and makes an amp sound less dull.

We have no bias one way or the other.Certainly, it would be less expensive to use paper. But we had some of the best studio players help us make the determination, and the choice was clear.

VG: How do you devise specs for transformers?

SH: We’ve been documenting designs for decades. Many include “happy accidents” and hidden treasure among the thousands of mediocre-sounding specimens. Our transformers are duplicates of those from the best-sounding amps in the world,many of which were literally one-of-a-kind designs donated by collectors and artists.

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Founded in the mid-1940s in Fullerton, California by Leo Fender, the legendary amps produced by this company have been heard on countless recordings and are influential on countless other amp makers. In the beginning Fender paired small combo amps with lap steels and electric guitars aimed at student players, but word of the superior tone and build quality quickly spread among professional musicians. In over seventy years of existence, Fender has consistently evolved and innovated its sound from the Tweed era through the Brown and Blackface eras and beyond.

Mercury Magnetics has built a massive collection of ToneClone® Transformers and Chokes for Fender Amps available from all eras of production. Answering the needs of players and amp-builders alike, our extensive catalog of audio transformers is the ultimate resource whether you’re looking to replace a worn-out transformer in a vintage Fender amp or looking to nail a vintage tone in a new amp or amp build. The engineers at Mercury have painstakingly documented every detail and nuance of the best-of-breed vintage transformers and can faithfully produce perfect clones using the same materials and methods used on the originals.

The ToneClone+ Series from Mercury Magnetics adds more utility and options without altering the original tone. Love your amp but want to change your speaker configuration? Mercury’s ToneClone+ Output Transformers give players more impedance options like alternate and multi-tapped secondaries. Power Transformers can benefit from the “Plus” treatment as well with alternate primary voltage, Higher or Lower B+ Voltages, added current capability, and more.

Fender Woodie Amp Transformers: The earliest production amps to come out of Fullerton, Fender ‘Woodie’ amps can be identified by their hardwood cabinets and fixed handles. We are proud to offer ToneClone® transformers from this short-lived and rare Woodie era including the Woodie Deluxe (aka Model 26) and Woodie Pro.

Fender Tweed Amp Transformers: The Fender Tweed era lasted from the late forties to early sixties and a vast amount of artists from all generations have crafted their distinct tone using these amps through all genres. Notable artists include: Scotty Moore (Elvis Presley), Neil Young, Larry Carlton, Eric Clapton and Keith Richards. Mercury Magnetics has the largest catalog of vintage-correct Fender ToneClone® replacements transformers for the following models: Tweed Bandmaster, Tweed Bassman, Tweed Champ, Tweed Harvard, Tweed Princeton, Tweed Pro/Dual Professional, Tweed Super, Tweed Tremolux, Tweed Deluxe, Tweed Twin, and Tweed Vibrolux.

Fender Blonde and Brown (Brownface) Amp Transformers: Sitting on the timeline between the Tweed and Blackface Fender amps, the Blonde/Brown amps of the early sixties were most noticeably embraced by surf groups like the Beach Boys and Dick Dale. Our catalog of ToneClone® amp transformers for this era includes Brown/Blonde Bandmaster, Blonde Bassman, Blonde Showman, Blonde Tremolux, Blonde Twin, Brown Concert, Brown Deluxe, Brown Princeton, Brown Pro, Brown Super, Brown Vibrasonic, Brown Vibrolux, and Brown Vibroverb. Also see our transformers and choke for the 6G15 Reverb Unit.

Fender Blackface Amp Transformers: Easily distinguishable by their black control plates and white lettering, Fender Blackface amps began showing up on stages and recordings in the early-mid 1960s. Extremely popular among musicians then, the impressive build quality and versatile tones have kept these classic amps popular even 50 years later. Mercury Magnetics has hundreds of ToneClone® and ToneClone+ transformers and chokes for Fender Blackface Amps including: Blackface Bandmaster/Bandmaster Reverb, Blackface Bassman, Blackface Champ, Blackface Concert, Blackface Deluxe/Deluxe Reverb, Blackface Princeton/Princeton Reverb, Blackface Pro/Pro Reverb, Blackface Showman, Blackface Tremolux, Blackface Twin Reverb, Blackface Vibrochamp, Blackface Vibrolux, and Blackface Vibroverb. Also see our transformers and choke for the 6G15 Reverb Unit.

Your quest for truly inspirational and superior tone has led you to the final link in the chain – Mercury Magnetics. Premium guitar amplifier power transformers, output transformers and chokes.

Transformer sets are often misunderstood, yet vital musical components. They’re integral to the nuances of your guitar amp’s sound. Far more than tubes, speakers or other amp components, the transformers establish the platform for shaping your amp’s unique sound.

Today’s players are more informed and demanding than ever. They hear the differences and know that both transformer design and build-quality have a dramatic effect on their tone. Indeed, if your tube-based amp is suffering from bland and unexciting tone then it’s probably related to low-end or poorly designed transformers. As amp designers, techs and manufacturers have discovered, the practice of dumping generic, low-bidder transformers into their amps doesn’t cut it any more. And now you know why.

Who uses transformers by Mercury Magnetics?

• The Who’s-Who of top guitar players.
• The majority of top boutique amp makers, world-wide.
• Amp manufacturers who produce high-end and signature gear.
• .. and players like you who are crave the best possible tone from their amps.

Within the player community no other company commands as much respect as Mercury Magnetics. You can depend on our uncompromising, fanatical build quality, consistency and reliability.

All of our transformers are 100% handmade by us here in California, USA. They come with an unheard of 5-Year Workmanship Warranty as well as a money-back Tonal Satisfaction Guarantee.

Who is Mercury Magnetics and why  is our guitar amp project so important to you?

Did you know that tube-based guitar amp transformers are unusual and very different from industrial as well as audio transformers? And did you also know that it is impossible to engineer the “perfect” guitar amplifier transformer from strictly “by the book” specifications? Interestingly, almost all of the great-sounding amp transformers contain either flaws, “happy accidents,” or have other issues in their construction that were not part of their original specifications.

Decades ago, when Mercury’s engineers first discovered these curious phenomena, the music industry was already in the process of losing its references to tone. In the throws of converting to solid state, tube and transformer platforms were mistakenly being relegated to relics of the past. Those who knew the original technology were either retiring, dying off, or jumping ship for the “new improved” way of doing things. By the time we collectively began to realize what was happening to guitar tone, it was almost too late. “Old school” manufacturing had been all but shut down and as quality dwindled N.O.S. (new old stock) components became the last bastion of our tone.

It was during those Dark Ages that the transformer connection to tone was almost lost completely. However, Mercury was there as a hold out — and even when it wasn’t fashionable, never compromised. But as often happens, when an older era fades, the remnants of what made it great were readily available to study. And like archeologists, Mercury’s engineers began sifting through the bones of the most coveted old amps in an attempt to discover what made them better, and often times so different than others.

The resulting products of those studies were the earliest ToneClone and Axiom designs. Mercury quite literally evolved a new science of guitar amp transformer design for tube-based guitar amps from there, and has continued to innovate and revolutionize it since. Perhaps few people realize the significance of these discoveries and the resultant developments. But without Mercury’s catalog of transformer designs, guitar tone as we knew it would have been lost.

We build transformers exclusively for guitar amplifiers. And we’re unique in a number of related ways:

• 100% American made — no hidden imports — we really do make ’em from scratch, right here in California!
• 100% handmade and hand-tuned using only handwound components. We never compromise or play bean-counter games by short-cutting, attrition or using cheaper materials. Each and every transformer is consistent. If you ever need to replace one of our transformers, your amp won’t lose its tone — your replacement will sound exactly the same as the original.
• American-made steel — we’re the only transformer manufacturer who custom orders, from an American steel mill, the unique alloys used in our transformers. These alloys are not only made here in the USA to military specifications, they are not available anywhere else in the world. They’re the same alloys used in the all-time best-sounding transformers during the “sweet spot” era (pre-1965) of guitar amplification history.
• Things are never stagnant around here. Mercury maintains active and ongoing R&D (research & development). All kinds of new and exciting-sounding transformer designs (Axiom series), as well as our ongoing cloning of outstanding transformers mined from the great old amps (ToneClone series). For vintage British amp freaks, check out our Radiospares, Hiwatt and Partridge series. And many modern amps can be upgraded with our APS series — our newest line of guitar amp-specific transformers.
• For any popular amp design we’re likely to have not just one but several transformers for different purposes and different tonal characteristics. It’s always a smart idea to discuss replacement, restoration or upgrading with your Mercury rep. — you’ll find his input invaluable.
• Our transformers are found in the amps of virtually every major player in the world. Many specify Mercury and won’t play an amp without them.
• Mercury transformers are standard components or factory upgrades available in virtually all high-end boutique amps, including Fender’s boutique and custom shop lines.
• Mercury transformers are so highly rated that they typically increase the value of any amplifier they’re installed in.

Protect Your Investment

Mercury’s Amp-Saver™ technology controls the power flowing into your amp – so you can power up confidence every time. The patented microprocessor controlled Amp-Saver automatically works with your amp’s on/off switch – simply plug in, turn on and play.

$169.00Buy Now

Why do I need it?

By controlling the power flow from your outlet, Mercury’s Amp-Saver prevents destructive hard-starting so your amp doesn’t inhale anything harmful. Gentle start-ups are key to prolonging your amp’s life.

How does it work?

The microprocessor controlled Amp-Saver automatically works with your amp’s on/off switch – simply plug in, turn on, and play!  The Amp-Saver and included Copper-Tone Power cord are designed to work seamlessly with your existing setup and You’ll sleep better knowing your transformers, tubes, and especially TONE are being actively protected.

How is it different from other devices?

• Unlike any other product on the market, Mercury’s Amp-Saver incorporates ‘smart’ circuitry to actively monitor the voltage and current at start-up. If something doesn’t look right, the Amp-Saver will go into ‘protect’ mode and save your amp from anything destructive. If no issues are detected, the power to your amp is slowly raised to diminish inrush currents in the mains transformer, filter caps, and tube filaments. The Amp-Saver also offers user-programmable ramp speed (how slow or fast the power is applied), and current sensitivity (offering the ability to fine-tune for your particular amp — more info below).
• Other circuits use passive devices (resistors/thermistors) to blindly slow the inrush current at turn-on. Unfortunately this method adds heat and robs audio amplifiers of the power they need to work their best. Even more sophisticated relay/solid state switchers do not offer active protection if too much current is being pulled.

What is Ramp Time?

This controls how quickly or slowly the Amp-Saver ramps up the voltage and current to your amp. The Amp-Saver is designed to minimize the inrush current at any setting. From the factory, the ‘RAMP ADJ.’ is set to maximum (fully clockwise) which goes from zero to full power in about 5 seconds. This control can be adjusted to your application using a small flathead screwdriver- the minimum setting is 1 second (fully counter-clockwise).

As it ramps, the Amp-Saver status LED will flash a few times and then stay lit green, indicating your amp has been safely started without any detected issues.

What is Current Sense and how do I set it up for my Amp? (Advanced users)

When you switch your tube amp on, the Amp-Saver monitors the power flowing from the outlet into your amp. If the tube amp is in trouble and is drawing more power than it should, Mercury’s Amp-Saver will go into protect mode and shut off the power (indicated by a flashing red status LED).

From the factory, the Amp-Saver ships with ‘SENSE’ set to maximum (fully clockwise). This setting will work for tube amps up to 300 Watts RMS. For advanced users who want to customize the protection for their particular amp, the Amp-Saver Sense control can be adjusted to customize the current protection for your particular amp.  The process outlined below requires you to start with a properly working tube amp – Mercury is happy to recommend an Amp Technician in your area if you require assistance.

As a rough guide, use the table below to match the wattage of your amp to the Amp-Saver ‘SENSE’ setting with a small flathead screwdriver. Using this starting point, switch your amp on and and verify that the Amp-Saver status LED stays lit green after ramping up the power. Some trial and error may be necessary to fine-tune this sensitivity as it needs to be set to a point just above the ‘protect’ mode. If the LED does not settle on green but instead flashes red, the Amp-Saver will need to be reset by unplugging it from your power outlet and the Current Sensitivity control will need to be increased (turned clockwise).

Approximate settings by Amp Wattage:

Next, with your amp turned off, lower the ‘SENSE’ control slightly (counter clockwise), switch your amp on, and watch for the solid green Amp-Saver status LED. Repeat this process until the Amp-Saver LED flashes red – at this point, with your amp turned off, and after resetting the Amp-Saver by unplugging it from your power outlet, raise the Current Sense back up slightly, and watch for the solid green Amp-Saver status LED. At this point, the Amp-Saver offers maximum protection for your tube amp and can give you advance notice if components start to fail.

My tube amp won’t turn on using the Amp-Saver. What happened?

• If the Amp-Saver light won’t turn on at all it is likely not getting power – try a different 120VAC outlet. If the Amp-Saver doesn’t light up using known working outlet, check the fuse (inside the Amp-Saver’s IEC power inlet). Note: fuses don’t usually blow for no reason – this is a good time to double check your setup for faults . Replace only with a 5A Slo-Blo 5 x 20mm fuse – there is an extra fuse held in the fuse tray.
• If the Amp-Saver light is blinking red, it has gone into ‘protect’ mode and something may be wrong with your amp. Double check your setup and see the ‘Current Sense’ section above for more information. Mercury is happy to recommend an Amp Technician in your area if you require assistance.

AMP-SAVER Consultation Services

If you are a large Manufacturer or Boutique Amp Builder with a custom AMP-SAVER application in mind, let Mercury’s Engineering team bring your idea to reality. Our experienced team is the right choice to meet your precise power flow control needs.

Andy Fuchs, a tube audio product builder from Bloomfield, New Jersey, recently sent us one of his Overdrive Supreme amp heads.

Cased in a finger-jointed pine cabinet with Tolex covering, the Overdrive Supreme definitely looks cool. The question is, “Does it live up to its name?”

But before we get into how it sounded, let’s roll through the particulars.

The all-tube 100-watt OD Supreme features four Sovtek 6L6s and four Sovtek 12 AX7s with Mercury Magnetics custom transformers and a combination of point-to-point wiring and printed circuit (PC) boards. Controls on the front panel include gain, deep and brite switches, a rock/jazz switch, high, mid and low passive tone controls, overdrive input and output knobs, master volume, accent (presence) and a reverb knob.

The back panel has effects loop jacks with send and return controls, a side chain switch, speaker output jacks and power/standby switches. And finally, the amp has a twin foot switch to remotely switch the overdrive circuit and the reverb on and off.

We plugged the Fuchs into a Marshall 1960A cab, then grabbed a Fender ’62 Reissue Strat and a Hamer Studio.

With the Strat plugged in and the amp’s overdrive circuit turned off, the first thing we noticed was a great clean sound, which was somewhat surprising for a 4×12 cab and a head. It delivered all the fat, lively tone you’d expect from a combo amp. The push/pull mid boost was perfectly voiced for the guitar’s single-coil pickups, and the brite and deep switches added just the right amount of punch and sparkle, while the jazz/rock switch gave the amp some added drive and attitude in the rock position.

With the gain turned up and the master volume turned down, we got a warm blues overdrive; but once we turned on the overdrive circuit, we were swimming in tons of very “British” distortion. A cool Richie Blackmore/Deep Purple tone – very fat, with smooth sustain and tight low end.

Switching to the Duncan humbucker-loaded Hamer went quite smoothly because, to our delight, we didn’t have to fuss with the settings to get the same great tone; we simply turned off the mid boost and made a slight adjustment to the accent control to clean up the high-end. The push/pull gain boost did thin out the low-end a bit, but with all the available gain, we didn’t really need it. And the reverb circuit was clean and lush-sounding and didn’t wash out the overall tone in the least.

Whether played clean or punched into overdrive, and regardless of whether you’re a single-coil lover or humbucker devotee, the Fuchs Audio Overdrive Supreme sounds great, with well-voiced controls and kick-ass smooth distortion.

The term “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery” has particular meaning in the music industry, where popular guitars and amplifiers have long been used as templates for the creation of “new” brands. This is particularly true in the boutique amplifier market, where probably 99 percent of currently available models are based on classic designs by Fender, Marshall, and Vox. Given that reality, it’s inevitable that some of the more recent amp builders who have managed to innovate and create truly original sounds will also see their designs cloned to one degree or another. The raison d’etre for copycat products is typically that demand for the real thing outstrips the supply, or that relatively few can afford to purchase the authentic product. Both are true of the amplifiers made by Howard Dumble, and the fact that the vast majority of guitar players will never get closer to one of his Overdrive Specials than the front row seats of a concert makes it no surprise that a small number of builders offer their own takes on that extremely rare and expensive amp (we’re talking around $30,000 these days). One of those is Fuchs Audio Technology, which with its Overdrive Supreme (a name that can also be conveniently abbreviated as ODS) makes no attempt to conceal where it draws its inspiration.

But Fuchs has packed plenty of cool things into this amp that any tube freak could appreciate. A peek inside the aluminum chassis reveals a mix of neat handwired and PCB circuitry, chassis-mounted pots, jacks, and switches (the mini toggles reside on one of the three PC boards), and chassis-mounted sockets for the four Svetlana 6L6GCs, two Ruby 12AX7As, and two Groove Tubes GT12AX7Ms. For low noise, the tube filaments are heated by regulated DC voltage, and regulated high-voltage supplies the preamp stages. The fan-cooled amp sports a high-quality Mercury Magnetics output transformer, and biasing adjustments are facilitated by the addition of bias trim pots and test points for each output tube.

Controls

Not that the Overdrive Supreme is overly complicated, but a few of its functions warrant explanation. In basic terms, this amp consists of Clean and Overdrive channels (or preamps), both of which feed a common set of tone controls, a reverb, and a Master volume. The Gain knob adjusts the amplification level in the Clean preamp, which in turn feeds the Overdrive preamp when you switch to distortion mode. Then there are three Overdrive controls: an internal (but user adjustable) trimmer that determines the amount of signal flowing from the clean preamp into the first stage of the Overdrive preamp, an Input knob that sets the amount of distortion (by adjusting the drive level between the two pairs of overdrive stages), and an Output control that’s essentially a lead master volume. This combination of controls gives you the ability to precisely tailor the amp’s gain stages to suit your guitars, pickups, and playing style.

The Overdrive Supreme also has a number of switchable functions that affect its tone. The Brite switch operates on the Gain control to provide a boost in treble (which diminishes in effect as the knob is turned beyond the halfway point), the Deep switch shifts the overall tonality of the amp to emphasize lower frequencies, and the Rock/Jazz switch alters the range and depth of the tone controls to provide for more gain and a more aggressive EQ in the Rock setting, or a smoother, more neutral response in the Jazz position. There’s also a Mid-Boost pull function on the High control that shifts the range of the circuit to emphasize midrange and a Gain-Boost pull function on the Mid control that bypasses the tone controls to increase gain on both channels. Lastly, turning up the Accent control reduces negative feedback at higher frequencies in the power section to increase edge and sustain.

Supreme Tones

Auditioned with several different speaker setups (including Marshall 2×12 and 4×12 cabs and a Celestion-loaded Dr. Z 2×12), the Overdrive Supreme never failed to impress. The closed-back Dr. Z cab worked particularly well with this amp (the cab’s width was a perfect fit too), and Fuchs also offers a matching 2×12 loaded with Fuchs FAT-1S speakers ($695 retail/street N/A). But even driving two 12s, the Overdrive Supreme is a loud amp that seems to find its “sweet” spot at levels that would be overkill in a small club. You can tame the blast with the Master Volume, but as this amp struts its stuff best when let off the leash, you might want to consider one of the lower-wattage Supremes if you don’t regularly gig on big stages (head and combo configurations are available in power ratings from 30 watts to 150 watts, and at prices starting at $2,395).

In its cleanest mode with the Rock/Jazz switch in the latter position, the Overdrive Supreme delivers crisp clean tones to the limit of its output stage. If you like to play clean at high volume, this amp does the trick. These tones sounded great with a Strat, though humbuckers also elicited a good degree of sparkle, as I discovered when playing it with a new PRS 12-string. The reverb is smooth and pleasing throughout most of its range, though the higher the setting, the more detached the effect seemed to become from the notes. I couldn’t obtain any sproingy surf textures either, even with the Reverb knob turned all the way up, but Fuchs probably intentionally voiced it for more “hall” and less “beach.” Interestingly, when the effects loop is set to Series mode with nothing connected to the Send and Return jacks, all you hear is output from the reverb tank. You either need to have a device in the loop for serial operation, or keep the switch in the Parallel position, which you’ll probably want to do anyway if you’re using a delay or a digital reverb.

Switching to the Overdrive mode, the Supreme delivers soaring lead tones that are ballsy and articulate. I had no trouble obtaining massive distortion from a Strat and a Tele, and even without kicking in the extra gain boost there was no shortage of creamy “forgiveness” in the dynamic response. Pegging the Gain knob is necessary for obtaining maximum grind from this amp, but the cool thing is, when you switch back to Clean mode the sound is dead clean. I didn’t notice any significant tonal difference between the Deep switch settings, but activating the Mid Boost fattens up the sound of single-coils quite effectively. The Overdrive Supreme has a strong midrange presence anyway, a quality that allows it to cut amazingly well in a loud band. (In fact, one tester reported being able to hear this amp clearly from the opposite side of a large stage, even when standing right in the blast zone of the other guitarist). The Overdrive Supremeis also louder and definitely more aggressive with the Rock/Jazz switch in the former position.

It’s very easy to get carried away with the sheer amount of distortion that’s available in Overdrive mode, however, by backing off on the Gain and Input knobs, it was possible to get killer medium-grind tones reminiscent of a cranked Fender Deluxe’s. This is a perfect mode for loud blues playing, especially with that output stage ready to leap into action like a cornered tiger when you dig in with your pick.

Supreme Court

There’s enough to like about the Overdrive Supreme that one can almost forgive its four-button Artist footswitch (an essential item that costs an additional $395; a standard 2-button switcher is no extra charge), which has a rather generic housing, label-machine stickers to ID its functions, and uses a fairly stiff type of high-tech cable with a multi-pin connector on the amp end — don’t count on an easy replacement if this baby fails in the field. (Fuchs states that the footswitch is being revised, and will have an aluminum bezel to replace the stick-on lettering.) A hip thing, however, is that its large LEDs are so intensely bright that you’d likely have no trouble seeing their indications even when playing at noon on the Bonneville Salt Flats.

The Overdrive Supremehas that rare quality of being able to draw you in immediately, yet continue to reward and inspire you the more you play it. Considering what it’s based on, it would be a surprise if the Overdrive Supreme wasn’t an impressive amp.

You’re are of the phenomenon… Suddenly a guitar, amp or some other new or pre-historic gizmo seems to come out of nowhere to achieve white hot, must-have status. The same thing can happen with previously unknown builders, too. Take Marshall 18W “clones,” for example… For the past 3-4 years these recreations of the rare originals were hot, hot, hot, with small custom builders sprouting and thriving from within the 18W Discussion Page. This was good for builders, good for players, and an unanticipated consequence was spawned — the rapid expansion of the cottage industry providing small amp builders with custom-made chassis, capacitors, transformers, cabinets, and just in time, an expanded range of guitar speakers developed by Eminence and Celestion. By the time Marshall jumped into the game with their own hand-wired 18 and 20W amps, the custom-built 18W wave had begun to crest and break, but there is now a new ripple on the horizon that we predict will soon form a formidable new wave among custom builders — the Vox AC30. Granted, Korg has already issued their own limited edition version of a hand-wired AC30 following the success of the British-made Vox AC30 TBX reissue, and we have reviewed the AC30 Custom Classic in this issue with backup color provided by The Radiators’ Dave Malone. While the Custom Classic is a very affordable and perfectly respectable alternative, it would be unreasonable to expect an economically built, mass produced amp to seriously rival a vintage JMI AC30 in original condition that has been competently serviced by an experienced tech. What about the original Matchless DC30 built by Mark Sampson? Great amp, but not the same. Players craving the authentic sound of an original AC30 have four choices today—find an restore an old JMI, buy a reissue and play it as is, have the transformers, caps and resistors in the signal path of your reissue amp upgraded, or buy booteek.

Well, it’s one thing to lovingly resurrect the rather Spartan Marshall 18W circuit, and quite another to tackle the original JMI design, which is much more complex, costly and labor-intensive. Furthermore, some builders may succumb to the temptation to significantly “improve” the original AC30 circuit. That would be a mistake. The successful builder will locate a vintage AC30 with truly bitchin’ tone (assuming they are capable of identifying said bitchin’ tone) and build more, per the specs revealed by blueprinting the old one. As far as we know, this has yet to happen on a meaningful scale. To date, we have located one potential candidate built by DST Engineering that will be reviewed next month. If anyone reading this believes there are more, please let us know.

Meanwhile, let’s address the common belief that 45 year old Vox amps are too unreliable — dangerous, even — for ecstatic thrashing, let alone regular gigging. While it is true that the design of the AC30 (and AC50) provide precious little ventilation (the top vents are stingy at best), we have seen AC30s used by touring musicians and there were no flames shooting from the back (Daniel Lanois didn’t even bother with a backup). So we asked ace amp tech Don Butler (Toneman) to precisely describe the steps he takes to make a vintage Vox roadworthy…

Don Butler: Vintage AC-30s suffer a lot from neglect. People are under the misunderstanding that all you need to do to any vintage amp is replace valves/tubes occasionally, but it requires much more than that. Here’s what I do when I get an AC30 or AC50 in for service that hasn’t had anything done to it since the day it left JMI in Darford, Kent…

Replace the dual 16uf @ 500v can, replace the 32uf @450v cap in the supply line that goes from the bottom power amp section to the preamp, and replace the dual 8uf can in the pre-amp. Replace the 32uf @ 450v cap for the Top Boost circuit (if the amp has integral Top Boost). Replace all the 25uf @ 25v cathode bypass caps (I see a lot of Vox amps where all of the main filters have been replaced but not the cathode bypass caps. It’s really just as important to replace these as well, as they set the gain for each area of the circuit they’re in). While I’m at it… Electrolytic caps have a lifespan of 7 to 10 years. After 10 years they start to deteriorate and slowly affect the way your amp functions (and not for the better, either). If you have an amp that 35-45 years old with original filters in them, well then, you’re asking for a lot of problems by not changing them. I’ve had a few vintage amps where the filters were not changed and they eventually shorted, taking the output tranny or choke of the mains tranny with them. To me they’re cheap insurance to keep your amp working properly and sounding good. By the way, the worse thing anyone can do to any amp is not turn it on for at least an hour a month. That keeps the electrolyte in it’s liquid form and prevents it from drying out and crystallizing.

Back to JMI-land — replace the output section cathode bypass cap (250uf @25v) and the four 100 ohm resistors on each EL-84 socket. These almost always drift way out of tolerance. Use 1 2att 100 ohm carbon film. On any voltage path resistor that needs to be replaced, use a carbon film. But, in the signal path, never use anything but carbon comp, otherwise it won’t sound the same. Vox always used carbon comps for everything. These days you can get 5% tolerance carbon comp resistors — in the sixties you were lucky to et 10%, and most used + or – 20% resistors.

Check each resistor with a meter. If the resistor is more than 20% off, replace it. Check the output tranny. Measure the primary side from center tap to each anode. The center tap is always soldered onto the main supply filter can. Be sure to discharge the cans before you do this!! The anodes are hooked up to pin #7, and they should read very close to each other from the center tap to each anode. Each era had different readings. A Haddon output transformer has a different primary reading than a Woden and different from an Albion as well.

Clean each valve socket, input jack and pot with Caig DeOxit D-5 contact restorer. And here’s a bit that is as important as everything else — make sure every nut, bolt, screw and pot nut is tight. You would not believe how much you can improve the noise and hum in an AC30 simply by doing this. I’ve had amps where every one of them is loose! On the 12AX& that is used for the Normal and Brilliant channels., JMI used a wire from pins 4 & 5 to ground to keep the filament supply grounded. Cut this wire off from the pins to ground. Take two 100 ohm resistors and attach them from each side of the filament supply at the pilot lamp to ground. This is what Fender did for years to make the filament supply quiet. It’s an easy “center tap” for the 6V AC filament supply.

Check all your valves/tubes. Always use a matched set of EL-8rs and good 12ZX7s and a decent 12AU7. Spend the money for a good rectifier! You have to look at the cost of valves as an investment in your tone. Good preamp valves should last at least 10 years for NOS. I’ve seen many Ac30s with perfectly working Mullard GZ-34s that were 40+ years old. EL-84s get beat-up pretty good, but still important to buy quality valves. This is also important: With any and every JMI Vox Amp, use a Variac! Why? My wall voltage reads anywhere from 114v to 122v A.C. Vox amps want to see 105v to 110v MAX! The voltage selector may say 115v, but Sergio at Mercury Magnetics has told me many times that the real input voltage of old JMI amps was 110v max. If you plug your AC50 into the wall at 1222v, instead of your B- supply reading 470v like it should, you’ll get over 500v D.C. Most of the components are rated at 400v-500v max. By putting more in you run the risk of shortening the life of most of the components if not frying them outright. If you follow this advice and servicing recommendations and use a Variac, you should have a happy AC30 that will work for you for years without trouble. It doesn’t hurt every few months to tighten up all the screws, nuts, etc. If you tour or gig with an old AC30, you have to know at least a little bit about how to maintain your amp. If you’re too lazy to do that, then buy a new Custom classic and send it to me to mod into one that sounds very close to a JMI-era amp. There’s a good book you can get from a guy named Stephen Grosvenor in the U.K. called “A Service Engineer’s Guide to the Vox AC30 Valve Amplifier.” This just came out in June (’06).

TQR: Not all power tubes can take the heat that Vox amps produce. What are your favorite choices for output tubes in old AC30s and AC50s and do you have any suggestions for keeping these amps running at lower temps?

Don Butler: AC30s — Tungsrams and Polem/Telem (same manufacturer — these are made in Poland) for NOS and EI Elites for new tubes. The Tungsrams are very clear, open sounding with nice chime on the top end and a good tight bottom. Same with the Polems, but the Polems have a bit more midrange. I find Mullards very dark and flat by comparison. I’ve tried just about all the NOS EL-84 types in my Voxes and Marshall 1974X. The EI Elites are a great sounding tube but lack just a bit of the detail and harmonics of the NOS. Still, a great sounding tube compared to the rubbish that’s being made these days.

TQR: You’re known for upgrading stock “reissue” amps. Describe the typical upgrades and modifications you make to reissue AC30s and the most recent AC30 Custom Classic.

Don Butler: I replace the output tranny with a Mercury Magnetics clone, same with the choke, as the choke is a very important piece of the puzzle. I replace every resistor and cap in the signal path with carbon comp resistors and Sozo caps. I have an audio “break-in” CD that I run into the amps after I’m done. About 4-5 times simulates the amp having been played for around 80-100 hours. I do this because every output tranny takes around 20 hours to break in, and the Sozo caps take around 100 hours to break-in. This way when my customer gets their amp back it’s as if it’s already been played for a bit and should be more open and touch responsive than if it hadn’t been played. I do also play through them when I’m done. I have to make sure they sound right. I play them again after I run the CD through them, and it’s fun to hear the actual difference!

Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/ToneQuest/_2007/TQRJan07-1.htm

Somewhere along the way, guitar amplifier tone got carelessly shoved into two broad categories – American and British. Fender being the quintessential American tone and Marshall being the obvious default for midrangey and reverb-less British tone. Within each, of course, there are distinct variations… Ampeg, Magnatone, Valco and Gibson, for example, are also American through and through, yet they remain distinctly different in sound and construction, and would rarely be mistaken for a typical Fender. Among British amps, Hiwatt, Sound City and Vox present equally diverse varieties of “British” tone that won’t be confused with a classic plexi Marshall head. But simply adding reverb or delay to a British amplifier will often throw listeners completely off as to its origins, while plugging into the Normal channel of a vintage Fender brown or blackface amp with the right guitar can produce an exceptional “Marshall tone.” Our recent experiment with our ’62 brown Vibrolux and a Goldtop Deluxe Les Paul with Lollar mini humbuckers rammed this point home with alarming clarity…. The point is, labels don’t always serve creativity and discovery well, and in the realm of supposed “vintage amp tone” where different examples can vary so dramatically, labels are worthless in generating much more than “skull chatter,” to quote Kye Kennedy. But, we still crave “Marshall tone,” whatever our individual perceptions of that sound may be. Well, since you asked….

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZT!Yes, Gear Page wankers, we just did it again. Careful you don’t get a scab on that thing… it might get infected and fall off. We’ve unearthed two alternatives that will give you the bigger, bolder version of Marshall tone that you remember from your early Jeff Beck Group, Zeppelin and Cream albums, but at a volume level you can easily live with and actually enjoy in 2008.

A reader alerted us to Roy Blankenship, oh, about a year ago, and it took that long to get an amp shipped for review and develop an interview. It was worth the wait. Blankenship builds a manageable range of custom amps in Hollywood, and he seems more interesting in building what he wants, the way he wants, than going big time. We like that. So here’s an introductory dose of Roy Blankenship – an entertaining and frank fellow to e sure. Our review follows Roy’s interview.

TQR: Can you summarize your experience with electronics and guitar amps? How did you get started initially with mods and repairs, and how did that evolve into actually building your own amplifiers?

RB: First, I was born in California. My father worked for North American Aviation, and was transferred to Columbus, Ohio when I was 6 months old. Therefore, I was born crazy, but grew up normal. My father was a genius – he could build anything, and, in fact, he built my first guitar amp. It was a single-ended 6L6 design and had a field-coil speaker. It wasn’t loud enough to play in a band, but I still have it and it still works. I later discovered the cabinet he used was the extension speaker for an old film projector.

I started playing piano when I was 3, and played brass instruments in the school band. When I was a Junior in high school, I bought my first guitar. A Kent solid body, for $49.95. I finally convinced my dad to let me buy a Health kit 2×12 solid-state kit so that I could play out, and that was my first experience with electronic assembly. I was the guy in the band who would dick with all of the equipment. We bought some PA cabinets that had JBL’s in them, I refinished and rewired them, having no idea what I was doing, but it always worked. My dad had a whole workshop including lathe and drill press, so I often did small projects and repairs, like building my own speaker box to house two Jensen 6×9 speakers for the car. I wish I would have had the vision to go into production….

I was a hobbyist for the next 20 years, getting into tube hi-fi and going through a dozen Dynaco Stereo 70s, not knowing anything about them, but doing little stuff like biasing and tube exchanges. I was employed in the music biz as a sales rep for four different firms, and the pinnacle of my career was as national sales manager of Symetrixin Seattle, WA. In 1991, I had a three-state sales territory selling body shop equipment. I stopped to see my friend, Dan Abell (of Abell Audio, 909 King Ave., Columbus, OH), best tech in the world, and drop off some octal sockets my dad had left me. Dan was all upset and expressed that his assistant had quit that day and he was in a bind because he had so much work. On a whim, I said, “Hire me. I have always loved this stuff.” “Can you troubleshoot a circuit?” I said, “Not yet, but I have people skills and can do any number of things so that YOU can work.” I knew his assistant wouldn’t answer the phone or wait on customers, so, after the first day, Dan said,“Man, I can’t believe how much I was able to get done. You’re hired!” Within two weeks, I was repairing circuits. The info that opened the door was the difference between negative and positive polarity transistors. We worked together for the next four and a half years, never an angry word between us. At one point, I wanted to live in California, so I went to a NAMM show and was hired by Groove Tubes as production manager. The learning curve was straight up – there is an incredible amount of information in that place. From there I started my own place in Santa Monica. To escape the chaos that is L.A., I moved to Florida to escape. I realized the repair biz was not a big money maker, so when two clients started encouraging me to build my own designs, I was up for it. We beat it around fora while, they finally ponied up and I built two EL84 amps.They loved them, I was shocked (they were nothing special),but they were the start. I still have number 1 that I bought back from the third owner. My experience with amp repair changed when I came to L.A. People in Ohio and Florida were happy when their amps worked… players in California wanted their amps to sound good. That opened a whole new area of learning. About the same time, I was running into a lot of overly-modified amps that oscillated themselves to death, so I added “demodification” to my business card. People would call me back and say, “Man, this amp really sounds great now,” and I would reply, “Yes, I made it stock.” The only mods I deem worthy are tone-stack bypasses on Fenders and one of two master volume circuits that actually work well. They each allow you to attenuate volume without losing everything, and they both originated with Ken Fischer, amp guru, God rest his soul. Tube amplifier technology stabilized in the mid ‘60s, and very few amp builders have done anything innovative since that time. In order to separate myself from the pack, I wanted to improve on the existing circuits. When these amps were made, people were playing clean, now everyone wants to crank them up,and in order for them to deliver, my belief is that they need a stiffer power supply. I get a lot of comments on how “loud” my amps are for a given wattage rating. One client said, “I have played a lot of these amps, they give up when you hit them, but yours sounds like a big amp.”

TQR: Describe the different models you build in terms of features, construction and tone, how they differ from vintage or other custom built amps, and what you specifically wanted to accomplish and/or improve on with each model.

RB: I build my own take on American and British circuits,and I employ a stiffer power supply than most. I am currently using turret and eyelet board construction, but a printed circuit board can be useful if made properly. The compromises made by volume manufacturers is where the “circuit board-is-bad” myth started. Proper CAD design can lend itself to a quieter, more reliable product as long as the bean counters don’t try to take a nickel out of it at every turn. All of my current product is hand-wired, and as you know, there is a lot of snob appeal and dick-measuring in this business. For example, some of my clients wonder why I do not use Clarostat potentiometers… I have tested all of these devices, and I have never had a bad Alpha pot, but the Clarostats I ordered for testing were 50% defective!

In the Leeds amp, I went with different trannies than most and a stiffer power supply; this gives it more beef. In the Fatboy, I discovered an output tranny that would allow me to use 6V6’s (for 15 watts) or 6L6’s (for 25 watts) without changing the speaker load. Though the tranny was originally designed for an 8 ohm load, it actually worked more efficiently at 16. Overall, using Mercury trannies has been one of the best decisions of this whole venture. Now when I hear an amp with any other tranny, they sound flat. I took one of my amps to visit a friendly competitor, he played it and enjoyed it, then fired up his own amp, and it sounded flat. He was looking at his amp as if,“Hey, what’s going on here?” I think that was his first side-by-side comparison and he could hear the difference, much to his own chagrin.

TQR: What inspired the use of a Variac with the VariPlex? Why not just build a master volume circuit?

RB: We wanted to create a cranked-up Marshall sound at lower volumes, but people have time and again expressed their dissatisfaction with the attenuators on the market and the smashed sound of a bad master volume circuit. I credit Dave Friedman of Rack Systems with the concept and the prototyping. We tried five different kinds of coupling caps, different types and brands of resistors, different trannies…you name it. Eddie Van Halen popularized the whole Variac concept, so we modified the circuit so you could go from full tilt boogie down to 1 watt and the amp would not shut off. We have sold 40 of those amps with no marketing other than clips on a forum. We are now introducing a similar amp with a master volume for those who want it whisper quiet, but saturated. There are two master volume circuits that I know of that sound great even when turned down to speaking levels. We are using one of those and a few other mods in the new model, the Custom 45.

TQR: You describe a process on your web site in which you A/B’d the VariPlex with a friend’s ’68 Plexi and you didn’t stop tweaking the design until 10 out of 10 guitarists chose the VariPlex in a blind test. Can you elabo-rate on how those tests progressed and the changed to the circuit that you made to achieve those results?

RB: I could, but I won’t.

TQR: In your experience, how much variation in tone and component values, including transformers, have you observed in vintage Marshall amps? Isn’t it necessary to listen to a lot of different examples and then choose an exceptional amp as a benchmark?

RB: Yes. We already had “the Holy Grail” plexi in house, so we compared to that one. Most amps will respond to love, but there are some that are just exceptional. The reason for this amp-to-amp variance is manufacturing tolerances. If your trannies are built with plus or minus 20% tolerances, that means your amp could vary as much as 40% from sample to sample.

TQR: The VariPlex doesn’t sound “new” in the sense that it isn’t shrill or bright and sharp like some replica Marshall amps. How did you accomplish this?

RB:That’s my secret.

TQR: How long is the wait for one of your amps once it has been ordered?

RB:We have Carry-Ons in stock for the first time. Generally, we like to say 3-4 weeks just to be safe. Most of this is the gray area of vendor delivery on cabinets.

TQR: What’s ahead? What do you want to accomplish in the future?

RB: I want to be a thorn in someone’s side so they will offer a butt load of dough, I will sign a non-compete, and go away. Then, I can sit on the beach and light my cigars with $100 bills and sip pina coladas. The funniest thing about that picture is that I don’t drink OR smoke. Actually, we are introducing a bass amp shortly. As we gain more exposure, I am sure we will have enough to do. I am happy with people’s response to my products. I do not want to get huge, and I will probably not offer many more models – it gets too confusing. But thanks for considering me as a worthy contributor to your magazine. www.BlankenshipAmps.com (818) 530-8853

Our experience with “vintage Marshall tone” was formed with two stout examples that we were fortunate enough to own and play for years. The first was actually a late ’60 Park ’7550 watt head, followed by a metal panel 1969 Marshall50 watt. Both amps displayed the classic tone, smooth distortion and touch-sensitive dynamics we love to love and eagerly oozed the warmth and dimensionality that reissues lack. This isn’t complicated…. We’d simply drag a newish Marshall clone of some sort into the music room, compare its sound to the old one and invariably say, “Not bad, but this one sounds and feels better.”

When we fired up the Blankenship, however, not only did it sound richer and fuller with more depth than our old Marshalls, but the tone controls actually produce changes in EQ that allowed the amp to achieve a level of versatility that has always been sorely lacking in the originals. And then, of course, there is the nifty Variac that allows the VariPlex to be played at nominal volume levels with no audible deterioration in the responsiveness or tone and the amp. Essentially equipped with features that mirror an original Plexi, the VariPlex is a 2 channel/4 input design with presence, bass, mid and treble controls. Channel 1 is the bright input; channel 2 is more bassy, and the two can be jumpered and mixed to taste.

We took our time developing an impression of the VariPlex, playing it for over two months. Bottom line – it produces an authentic, old-school Marshall voice with better EQ, clarity, and fresher, more vivid harmonic content. Its voice is exceptionally smooth, yet capable of acquiring the melancholy edginess of an early Clapton recording by simply managing EQ, and the Variac as a master volume control works brilliantly. The VariPlex impressed us as a near-perfect example of an overbuild, hand-wired, low-production amp inspired by arguably the best efforts of Jim Marshall and company, circa 1968. Just as the Balls M18 became our modern benchmark for low-powered, classic Marshall tone, so goes the Blankenship VariPlex in the 50-watt range. If there is a better-sounding modern alternative toa vintage Marshall, we have yet to hear it.

We also admired the neat, clean and easy-to-read design of the VariPlex silver control panel, somewhat reminiscent of our old Park. Among all the clones being cloned with Mojo boxes, this amp is a visual standout. And as far as internal build quality is concerned, let the pictures speak for them-selves. In all respects the VariPlexis a solid piece of work,returned to the builder with as much regret as any amp we have ever reviewed. In fact, we’re still thinking about it. Plex forth….

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Many of you are already familiar with our resident amp tech, studio owner/engineer and advisory board member Jeff Bakos. In his spare time, Jeff occasionally builds amps for clients on request, and lately he’s been asked to build… you guessed it – small little biters. Since his personal GA-5 has been featured so often on various recording projects, Jeff toyed with the idea of recreating the Gibson GA-5 Skylark for a minute, but given the fact that vintage GA-5s remain fairly plentiful, he ultimately decided to design his own simple take on a smallish amp – the 8 Ball. Housed in a Mojo Champ cabinet, the 8 Ball is built with one of our favorite tens, the Eminence Legend Alnico 1058 (that’s a hint), Mercury Magnetics trannies and choke, and premium components, including Sozo coupling caps. With the bigger Mercury Princeton transformer set, the single 6V6 / 12AX7 / 5Y3 design is capable of producing 10 watts of power. Features include dual inputs, volume and tone controls, a front panel line out jack, and a “vintage” / ”modern” toggle switch also conveniently mounted on the front panel.

The “vintage” setting produces pristine Fendery clean tones up to 12 o’clock on the volume control, gradually followed by a progressively thicker growl with intense distortion and sustain. In this setting, the 8 Ball surpasses all the other small amps we’ve reviewed in terms of practical versatility with stronger, louder clean tones and a more gradual It’s back! We are now resuming limited production of our meticulous recreation of the original 1959 DeArmond R15 1×12 amp. You may recall that we initially produced a limited number of TQ Clarksdale amps in 2006, before our supplier for the original chassis informed us that small runs would no longer be possible. We’ve found a new supplier, and the TQ Clarksdale “DeArmonds” will be built again by Jeff Bakos with our original specs – pin cabinet construction and design identical to the original, original Mercury Magnetics Tone Clone transformer set cloned from our original ’59 DeArmond, hand-wired chassis, premium components including Sozo caps, Celestion G12H 70th Anniversary speaker, premium JJ and Tung-Sol tubes, Evidence Audio speaker cable, custom gold grill cloth and blonde Tolex covering. This 22 watt design represents one of the rarest and most toneful combos ever built. The original 1959 DeArmond 1x12s were built for just one year in Toledo, OH, and a clean example recently sold on eBay for $7000. In 2006 Jeff Bakos meticulously blue-printed our original DeArmond, Mojo created CAD drawings from the original cabinet design, and we sent the transformers to Mercury Magnetics to be cloned. The result is a phenomenal 1×12 that will generally kick any tweed Deluxe straight to the curb with a bigger, bolder voice and lush, musical distortion cranked. The 4-input, cathode-biased Clarksdale can be operated with dual 6V6s and 5Y3 rectifier for optimum burn, or a pair of 6L6s and 5AR4 for slightly more power and clean headroom. Blonde Tolex only, simply because it’s the coolest color…

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Amp Transformers, Output Transformers & Chokes

Something very cool is happening the basement of Mr. Music, Boston’s favorite family-owned music store in Allston, Massachusetts.

After a lifetime of gigging, amp repair, studio building, and tone tweaking for stars like Joe Perry of Aerosmith, master technician Rob Lohr is building some of the finest boutique tone monsters to come along in a while.

I have always been impressed with anything I heard that was built in his shop, located in the basement of Mr. Music. Rob is a person of great detail. A technical question put forward to Rob usually yields a tutorial on the workings of electrons with respect to our favorite instrument, the guitar. Through the years, Rob and I  have had many conversations about what a practical amp should sound and look like. A veteran of the gig scene himself, Rob understands what the working artist needs. In my world, 50 percent of the reason why something sounds good is because it does not need a crew of roadies to transport it, set it up, and break it down. These days, as indie artists, even for high-profile shows in theatres, we usually show up with our own favorite rig. It had better be light and tone-worthy!

When I heard Rob’s Dumbalina, an amp inspired by the legendary Alexander Dumble’s Overdrive Special, I was instantly hooked. Here was an amp the size of a Fender Princeton Reverb that was a very high quality, point to point, hand-made tone machine that had a kick like amps twice its size. Rob Lohr had somehow managed to pack all of the essential features of the best Dumble-inspired amps into a space the size of a Fender Princeton Reverb. He did this with no sacrifice in power (45w) and the highest quality components!

There are many other great D-Style amps whose components are a cut below Dumbalina’s. Yet Rob charges a modest $1800.00 for the basic amp, with additional costs for any custom work. Okay, yes, I did have to pay extra for him to add my name to the front in vinyl lettering with Fender-style script. Don’t be confused though, this is not the “Thaddeus” amp!

With a switchable  4, 8, 16 ohm extension speaker output, the amp offered everything you might need to grow your rig. Small gig: use the onboard 12-inch G12-T75 and walk in with the amp in your right hand and guitar in the left. Large gig: take an extension cab and utilize all of the 45 available watts to rock the stage with two or more 12-inch speakers.

The footswitchable Overdrive channel sounded like the mating of a Dumble Overdrive Special and a Two Rock Custom Reverb Signature. Overdrive that sings without over-saturation and responds to tonal tweaks on your guitar or subtle finger ornaments. The quality of OD of this amp, I will testify, is simply one of the best I have played. The clean channel can be crystal, but if you push it, you can get a singe on the top notes and a roar on the power chords.

The +4 effects loop provides you with the opportunity to use the highest studio grade effects in the loop. Aside from being whisper quiet, plugging in a high-end effect processor seems to lend a three-dimensional quality to the amp that makes it sound much bigger than its physical proportions might suggest. Of course, you can use a dumble-ator or clone thereof to use line level floor pedals, but why not use some of the high-quality studio grade pedals that are coming out these days? TC Electronics makes a couple and so does Eventide. More and more pedal manufacturers are giving you the option of the studio level +4 signal, ready to plug into your D-style effect loop. (See previous post on Effects Loops).

The three switches that you normally find on D-clones for Bright, Mid, and Bass are neatly hidden in Dumbalina: Each  tone knob (Bass, Treble, Mid) has a hidden, whisper quiet, pop-less pull-boost feature which takes the whole thing up to a different kind of 11 heaven. The Volume knob has a presence boost. When the Tone Bypass is engaged (often called Pre-Amp Bypass or PAB in other Dumbl- inspired amps) the treble pull pot doubles as a bass boost. The result is the most useful “PAB” option that I have ever seen with a corresponding increase in low end that makes this feature a very practical and useful option for me. Usually I shy away from PAB because it might sound a little gnarly, or less friendly in lower volume settings, even though it works wonders for cutting through in the heat of the mix at high volumes.

My most recent gig was a power trio gig, a Hendrix tribute concert. I used Dumbalina’s overdrive channel for the solos that were not over-the-top, so to speak. When the band started really bashing, I could get away with using my Tone Bypass to cut through the mix. Really very flexible tones on this puppy! The 45w is just what you need to sing at lower volumes. Push the envelope a bit and you get great power amp overdrive without scaring the non-guitarists out of the room. In addition, there is a master volume/loop send level that allows you to get the tones you are using at lower volumes without changing the character of the settings. A well thought out amp for the working musician. At 34 pounds, the amp is welcome at any gig that I play!

In the studio, Dumbalina reigns supreme. I have just completed tracks for a tribute cd. R&B versions of Jimi Hendrix tunes. I used Dumbalina for many of the guitar solos and rhythm tracks and, well, tune in next year in the Spring to hear what I think are pretty amazing guitar tones.

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Rob builds every aspect of the amp. From the cabinet and grillcloth to the faceplate (painting and vinyl lettering)

the meticulously wired components inside this amazing amp.

Current wait time is only something like three months, since Rob is building each one by himself. I am sure as the word gets out, that list will grow and grow. It will still be worth the wait, I promise!

Here is the icing on the cake: roughly six months or so after you get the amp, after the amp has been broken in. Rob will sit there with you and do the final tweaking of the components WHILE YOU ARE IN THE SHOP! He will look at the levels and settings that you choose and tweak the internal components so that a great amp becomes an even greater amp, tuned to YOUR signature style of playing. This is an amazing benefit and it is the feature that pushes Rob to the front line of amp builders. (Isn’t that why Dumbles became so popular and expensive? Alexander Dumble would tweak them to the playing style of the owners). Rob recently spent 10 hours—yes folks, 10 hours in the basement at Mr. Music—tweaking an amp for client Alex Potts, so he could have it ready for his move to LA. In my Berklee Online course, Funk/Rock and R&B Soloing, I talk about signature tone. Folks like Robben Ford, who within a couple of notes, announce their presence on the recording whether or not you are even close enough to read the album credits. I believe that this amp can open a door to this concept, and with the post-build tweak, you just might be creating some new history.

Here is the latest version of Dumbalina that Rob is completing, with a couple of new tweaks and slightly different cosmetics on the faceplate, which include corresponding faceplate lights for the lighted footswitchable Overdrive and Tone Bypass features: Sweeeeeeet!!

Here is the scoop on Dumbalina, from the hand of the builder himself, Rob Lohr:

CABINET-The cabinet is Grade “A” pine joined with machine cut half blind dovetail joints and internally braced with poplar. I will cover the cabinet with any available tolex and grille cloth, and you have your choice of appropriate loudspeaker*. The standard faceplate is brushed aluminum with black letters, but I can do colors for a small upcharge and you have your choice of knobs**. The handle is a good quality faux leather that comes in brown, black, or blue, and I use 1″x2″  heavy duty rubber feet and stainless steel cabinet corners and hardware.

*speaker must be of appropriate power handling.

**knobs must fit 1/4″ shaft and comply with existing chassis hole spacing.

CHASSIS– The chassis is steel with welded joints and all hardware is stainless steel. The transformers are MERCURY MAGNETICS FBFVL-P 120v power transformer, FC-VIBROL choke and FBFVLR-OS Fatstack output transformer(4,8,16 ohm selectable). I can do selectable AC input for a small upcharge. The tube compliment is: 2x 12ax-7(pre), 1x 6sl7(PI) 2x 6L6GE(output) and a GZ34(rectifier). I use Belton tube sockets and retainers. I use a combination of Alpha, Clarostat, and Bourns potentiometers, Cliff and Switchcraft jacks, plugs and switches. All shielded leads are Mogami console cable. All unshielded signal leads are teflon coated solid copper core silver clad. All power supply wiring is PVC jacketed stranded copper.

ELECTRONICS– 100 percent hand-wired point to point construction. Hand made 1/8-inch fiberglass turret board, a combination of Metal oxide, metal film and carbon composition resistors, Oil and foil signal capacitors, and high quality electrolytics. There are some other solid state components, but they are related to the switching circuits and are not in the audio path.

LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY– I don’t warranty speakers, tubes, or output transformers for obvious reasons …but if anything else ever breaks I will fix it for free for ever and ever. Or until I die, which ever comes first.

Here is the bullet list of Dumbalina Specs:

Output power———–45 watts

Tube compliment——–2x 6L6GE, 2x 12AX-7, 1x 6SL7, 1x GZ34

Output Impedance——4,8,16 ohm selectable

Effects loop———— post pre/ pre power half normalled break out with send level.

Foot switches———-Over-drive and tone bypass(PAB). Both can also be controlled by front panel switches and are indicated with both front panel and foot switch mounted LED’s. The footswitch over-rides the front panel switches.

Controls—————-Volume, Treble, Middle, Bass, Overdrive, Level (ratio), send level.

Pull Pots:

Pull Volume————-Bright

Pull Treble————–Hi mid boost

Pull Mid—————–Lo mid boost

Pull Bass—————-Bass boost

Speaker Celestion G12T75, 8 Ohm

Rob Lohr can be reached at Mr Music in Allston Massachusetts at 617-783-1609 or at  robmadoak@hotmail.com

Here are few demo videos that I just did:

OVERVIEW:

In recent years I received many emails from readers about boutique amps. Often the writer complained that the manufacturers usually lack the courage to go in a new direction with a new design: “Is it not possible, today, to do it a different way than Marshall, Fender and Vox have done in the past?”

Too much gets copied and regurgitated. So wrong because, in general, boutique products are already moving along well-trodden paths. The manufacturers complain that a new design is just far too expensive to produce. This is correct, because boutique amps are purchased only in small quantities by buyers. They serve a market that does not really exist. Here and there a new chassis and cab are constructed, but they always remind us of the shapes of the traditional geometry of typical role models.

“A young Canadian residing in Rastatt, Germany, wants to change that now. Bold as a Bang & Olufsen designer, Irving Blacker has devoted himself to a design that immediately splits the guitarist community. The Tonehenge Monolith is already a more than respectable visual statement about tube amp design. Like the unusual guitar designs by Auerswald, Ritterand Teuffel, this product dispenses with all known forms and reinvents it-self according to its own desire. “You will either love it or hate it,” Irving admits laconically. “But I really wanted to do something new.”

The name “Monolith” seems to be in his design message. On the whole it stands 134 centimeters high and the slender column of sound towers above all other so-called stacks. Slim, elegant and thoroughly modern. At the front, solid aluminum ribs protrude like the grille of a Rolls-Royce towards the beholder. The deep-grained wood veneer is polished to a shine, like a high-end hi-fi speaker or a grand piano. That this should actually be a rock ’n roll tool be-comes only apparent after one ponders it for a moment.

How should it be transported? How to combine it with other amps? How does such a construction hold up after the first tour? All these questions can only be answered in the future. One thing is for sure though, something like the Monolith has never been seen before. And it happens to have caused mouths to water from a few pros, too. Carl Verheyen, Joe Bonamassa and Larry Carlton were curious about plugging into the luxury model and were more than pleasantly surprised, because this unique amp sounds damn good.

The Monolith is therefore not an amp, where only the glossy facade conjures quality. To use one of our examples again: Bang & Olufsen has simple Philips technology in-stalled. The Danish noble manufacturer is primarily known as a “wrapping artist.” On the other hand, the Monolith is equipped with the latest technology under the hood. The only things traditional about this amp are the tubes, Mercury Magnetics transformers and Celestion speakers. The rest corresponds to a quality that in guitar amplifiers was previously sought in vain. Irving Blacker and his meticulously selected technical team have literally spent years to put together an optimum in components, which is beyond all known standards.

For example the high-quality potentiometers are usually found only in the most expensive hi-fi systems, as well as the internal wiring, all of which promise high-quality signal processing.

Each amp is also comes fully equipped with cable from Evidence AudioSiren II speaker cable, Mono-rail shielded cable, choice of Lyric or Forte guitar cable, and a power cord that alone is more expensive than a small combo amp from the Far-East. Everything should match together and ultimately nothing should impede an optimal sound. Inside, it looks similar to a modern computer. Instead of solder lugs and vintage plastic-sheathed cables, here is a solidly-built modern high-quality board which is so perfectly made, and as luxurious in appearance, as the gracefulness of the entire Monolith. Even behind the power socket an opulent line filter extends into the interior. Literally everything has been thought through to completion.

The block diagram looks usual for a modern amp. There is a Clean channel with Volume, Treble, Mid, Bass, and a Crunch channel with Gain, Volume, Treble, Mid, Bass. Add to this a Master section with master Volume, master Presence and master Reverb. The latter controls a built-in digital unit that has been specially programmed in Germany for the Monolith. That’s it!

On the back there is a footswitch jack for channel selection, two switchable speaker outputs with 4, 8 and 16 ohms, a variable line-out and an effects loop. It is all just as much as only necessary, but normally enough for the majority of cases. The structure of the Monolith is clear and self explanatory… no voodoo switch, no push-pull pots and no mini-switches!

The towering speaker enclosure houses a CelestionHeritageG12H and a Celestion Alnico Gold, a blend, that according to Irving Blacker, fits perfectly to the sound of the Monolith. With speaker selection though, the customer has a hand in choosing. After all, Irving Blacker sells through his company Tonehenge the Weber speakers on the European market. “There’s always room for wishes,” says Irving. “The Monolith is only a basic framework in which the customer also has a hand in creating.” This also applies to the cabinet. There are numerous alternatives for color, wood and paint. Yes, even cabs painted or carved by artists are offered. On the sample we previewed, we had the chance to admire an airbrush design with attractive guitar art. On top of that is the stunning polished high-gloss varnish. Despite all the modern ingredients of the Monolith it is a cleanly laid out and thoroughbred tube amp.

I would find it easier if I could fall back on describing the sound of known reference samples. But the product vigorously denies this as there is nothing that reminisces Fender, Marshall or Vox.

The clean channel is, for example linear and unswervingly neutral in its tuning that it recognizes neither the strengths nor the weaknesses of the famous classics. Rather, this channel brings all samples to a design of an attractive tube clean sound to a wonderfully catchy blend. You hear the player, not the guitar and the amp! The amplifier is not primarily loud, nor does it roar, but bundles all the nuances of the guitarist. And that is the way it should be! From Volume at position 5 the sound goes into a very fine and pleasing crunch sound, which should enchant mainly blues fans. The tone shines with a fantastic mid-range without any weakness. It sounds warm, dynamic and assertive with a resolution so fine that one can represent all the nuances of his playing effortlessly. Likewise, the tone controls actually work with predict-able quality. From 0-to-10, the filters work continuously and are effortless to operate when dialing in your tone. The reverb unit is reminiscent of a good studio reverb Lexicon; long and deep, without noise and clatter. And perfectly enriches the sound as you would desire it to. The crunch channel offers exactly the same qualities and character as the clean channel, but with much more gain and a little more emphasis in the midrange. The bass sound is a bit slimmer and starts from volume on 3 to really growl. Depending on the gain setting, the Monolith produces a beautiful lead sound that is great for rock and fusion alike. It is a bit reminiscent an early Dumble amp or the tones of players like Larry Carlton, Lee Ritenour and Robben Ford. In this genre, the channel might be more at home than with AC/DC. A singing lead tone with a nice mid-range and very fine-selectable distortion characteristic is the focus of this unit.

As expected in such an exquisite boutique product, the Monolith thus offers not only finest ingredients for the eyes, but also outstanding tone in all parameters. I’m very curious how this conspicuous creation will place in the market but having never encountered something as original I find it hard to believe that this amp will not find its fans. The Monolith worthy of an award, not only in terms of design, but in its technical structure and its sonic possibilities. In any amp test I have rarely been allowed to develop as much curiosity and eagerness as with this amp. Simply brilliant!

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It doesn’t take too much digging to find a laundry list of boutique amp builders using Mercury Magnetics transformers in their products. From Mojave Ampworks to Joe Morgan Amps to kits from MetroAmp, builders have found that Mercury knows their iron. While transformers rarely receive the same level of attention of NOS tubes, speakers, or even guitar cables, they are a major contributor to tone. Think about it—the power and output transformers are the start and end of the line with any amp.

Based in Chatsworth, California, Mercury Magnetics has been building transformers for close to 60 years. I recently had a chance to talk with Mercury’s Sergio Hamernik to dig deeper into their roots, find out what one can expect from upgrading their iron, and what sets Mercury apart. Prior to our conversation, I had the opportunity to witness the remarkable transformation of an Epiphone Valve Junior modified from stock to hot-rodded, using one of their transformer upgrade kits. Not only was it a noticeable upgrade, it was a revelation in just how important the role of quality iron in an amp is. But because it is the single most expensive part of any amp, it’s no wonder we see so many modern amp manufacturers skimp on the iron to keep costs down. Let’s see what the passionate, and often hilarious, Sergio has to say about his part of the business.

PG: I’ve been seeing Mercury transformers in amps for at least a decade. When did you get into the amp scene?

SH: This happens to be one of our most often asked questions. Even though Mercury Magnetics’ roots go all the way back to the early 1950s, there are guitar players who are only now discovering us. But if an industry insider like you has been aware of us for at least a decade, then I suppose it means I don’t need to lay off any of our sales and marketing staff.

I would attribute most of our lingering anonymity to the old days. Back then, most of our clients from the audio community preferred to keep us as a trade secret from their competitors and the press. The typical transformer-savvy amp builder also didn’t usually want to share the credit with us, or reveal what their “unique” technical advantage was regarding audio and tone. Consequently, we were asked to maintain a low profile and generic look for our transformers for quite some time. On occasion, a customer in the know will spot a small “MM” mark on a transformer from an older piece of gear, and ask if it’s a Mercury. Odds are that it is.

It was the guitar amp crowd that pushed us to go above ground. Now Mercury gives any electric guitar player or amp restorer a taste of what the pros were using, talking about in their studios, and among themselves. Many players have told us their amps increased in value when upgraded with Mercury transformers, and this became evident when insurance appraisers began to contact us for verification. However, it wasn’t until the mid-1980s when we began to market our services and various brands to guitar players.

For me personally, I got into the amp scene around the mid- to late 1970s. I just found it to be a nice way to relax from the strain of oversleeping.

PG: Your website shows a large number of amp manufacturers you have replacement/upgraded transformers for. What are your best sellers and why?

SH: There are so many different camps loyal to their particular amp brand, so it would be difficult to single out the best sellers. The best sellers are transitory and change from week to week because guitar amp players are a fickle bunch. That’s why we’ve built the world’s largest catalog of guitar amp transformers where nobody is left out.

But trends tend to follow their own dynamics. And the current worldwide trend seems toward smaller wattage amps—regardless of brand. Conversely, the 100-watt heads are not selling like they used to. Players are gigging with no more than 15 watts and a few pedals. Regardless of playing style, they’re doing just fine abiding by sound level restrictions and kicking ass with the tone we feel Mercury upgraded amps deliver.

These players really get the fact that an amp lacking in tone can’t be fixed with higher power or covered up with a gain mod. An amp that coughs out an asthmatic tone at 50 or 100 watts easily fatigues both music listeners and guitarists. But the audience will stay until the bar closes if the band plays well and sounds great—even with as little as a few watts going through the available PA system.

PG: What can a guitarist expect to hear when upgrading their transformers in a newer amp?

SH: An amp’s transformers are the most important component in determining the quality of amplified guitar tone. And it’s no coincidence that they’re the most expensive parts in an amplifier. Many of the newer amps just don’t have the same “overkill” factor with their transformers as the amps in the ’50s and ’60s. Why? Ignorance and a bean-counter mentality. What’s good for accounting isn’t necessarily good for tone from an amp. Sadly, the people making these decisions are probably not players themselves and don’t seem to realize the damage they’re doing to the industry.

It’s not unusual to find a current production amp with a power transformer running hotter than hell, even without cranking the amp all the way. Or having an undersized, cheaply built output transformer whose sphincter begins to tighten the moment the guitarist reaches for the amp’s volume knob. An amp built around anemic transformers yields only to dull, thin, noisy, fuzzy mids and mushy bass. That’s what makes your notes sound more like farts through a pillow. This overkill factor is probably the only edge that some of the vintage amps have over the newer amps.

We have made it our mission to duplicate the performance of the best original transformer designs of all time. In terms of amplified guitar tone history, these transformers represent the best ever produced.—Sergio Hamernik

Have you ever noticed how most newer amps often weigh less, sometimes a lot less, than the older ones? That’s usually the weight difference between the old and new transformer designs. There is a direct relationship between weight and having transformers that seem to stay cooler and “loaf around” with power to spare, until a player demands more from their amp. It’s like they are waiting around having a card game, waiting for the player to do something. The best vintage tone was born that way. Newer amp tone can be easily improved—if the builder follows some of the same ideas.

Upgrading with quality transformers gives a second chance to a new amp owner to make things right with their tone, by reclaiming that overkill factor. Assuming there are no issues with the amp’s circuitry like bad parts or worn out tubes, a guitarist should hear and feel improvements with the very first pluck of the guitar. They should expect to hear the notes more detailed with overtones, and a quicker and more immediate response to their playing. Clean notes will have less sonic collisions with noise and reveal more bell tones, chimes, etc.

When more distortion is required, the player will sense better control of crunch and when break-up begins to happen. The coughing and hacking that happens when a stock amp is pushed, will vanish with a transformer upgrade. It will be replaced with longer sustains and notes that reach farther. The amp will also sound closer and bigger than the power it puts out—and the bass notes will have a tighter, rounder bottom end. And when pushed, she will still be able to hold that quarter from dropping—no matter how tall her high heels—something most musicians are looking for.

It’s not uncommon for guitarists to report that it took a few weeks of playing to fully realize what they’ve gained in terms of harmonic richness. These players have typically played longer and felt more inspirational emotions sucking them in, as they have invested more time into relearning and becoming reacquainted with their amps.

PG: Many players become very attached to the transformers in their vintage amps. When you create ToneClones or Radiospares and Partridge versions of these classic transformers, how close are they get to the originals?

SH: Radiospares and Partridge are our brand specific clones, whereas ToneClones are “best-of-breed” duplicates culled from the hundreds of other brands that have made transformers over the years.

We have made it our mission to duplicate the performance of the best original transformer designs of all time. In terms of amplified guitar tone history, these transformers represent the best ever produced. In the grand scheme of tone pursuit, these designs are incredibility important and deserve to be considered treasures.

This is an ongoing project for us, spanning almost three decades now. And it couldn’t have been accomplished without the enormous amount of assistance we’ve received from top players and amp collectors around the world.

What about Axiom transformers? Where do they fit in?

The Axiom transformer line takes over where the limitations of vintage transformer design ended. No bean counters here—simply the sincere pursuit of answering the age-old question: What if there were no constraints on budget, time, or material quality to achieve the best possible performance? That’s our objective with the Axiom line.

Axiom transformer designs represent many new approaches—new tone with the best materials and designs money can buy, so they’re not intended for the timid or the low-budget crowd. Check out our FatStacks and SuperStacks for the Marshall DSL and TSL families for interesting comparisons.

PG: Mercury’s vintage transformer restoration service has been gaining a reputation for quality work. Why would someone want to restore a transformer instead of replacing it? And vise-versa?

SH: Some vintage amp owners prefer to pay the extra cost of our restoration services, because it’s very important to them that their amps retain authenticity. Collectables or rarities are valuable. They’re of the “why take chances” mind. The high road. But on the flip side, we have pro musicians who insist on touring with their vintage gear. To play it safe, and not sacrifice the tone of their original transformers, they have their techs replace the stock transformers with Mercury’s. By doing this, they preserve the original transformers from road abuse while taking advantage of our reputation for tone, durability, and warranty. Restoration of vintage transformers is a tricky and highly specialized art. Sadly, too many of the great originals have been lost forever due to technically inept and musically disinterested people. We see attempts at “rewinds” here all the time.

Occasionally, it appears some people confuse “demolition” with “restoration,” and the preservation of the original tone is lost forever. There’s no shortcut to doing a proper restoration.

PG: I understand you’re doing all of your labor and get all of your materials in the USA. How does that impact your business aside from just the straight costs?

SH: Well, we figured that someone has to do it—and we really do make everything here with 100 percent American materials. There are plenty of products out there stamped with “Made in the USA,” but are actually assembled with non-USA, low-price materials. But yeah, we’re the real deal and proud of it.

Building transformers that make an amp sound good requires highly specialized technologies, highly skilled labor, and the right kind of materials. We love music and owe it to the players out there to do all the work “in-house,” so we can keep tight control over every aspect of our transformer designs. It’s really old-school military spec style, so our transformers don’t vary at all from batch to batch. If you need a replacement transformer 10 years from now, it’ll sound exactly the same as the one it’s replacing.

We’re hard-liners when it comes to not playing shell games with a musician’s hard earned dough and quest for better tone. Perhaps I’m a fool for doing it this way, but I was brought up in a musically minded family. From a very early age, I was taught that music is as important and necessary as food. If there is a day our services are no longer needed or appreciated, I’ll pursue my dream of owning a car wash in the valley, and get into the business of making money.

PG: Any new or exciting projects in the works at Mercury?

SH: Yes, but we’re planning on releasing the news sometime around summer. For quite some time, we’ve been fielding requests for accessories to accompany our transformer line. We’re being asked to apply our know-how to other aspects of guitar amps.

PG: Do you have any advice for guitar players and techs in their quest for tone?

SH: Don’t let anybody fool you—every player has the ability to discern the difference between good or bad tone. Unfortunately, there are a few too many self-styled “experts” who irresponsibly dispense advice without having a clue. As a result, we’ve all seen amps completely lose their tone by being modded to death.

There’s no excuse for the old “damn, I’ve done it this way for many years so it must be right” mentality. More than ever, it’s so easy to seek opinion, advice, and help online and elsewhere. I highly recommend the old textbooks from the 1950s and 1960s as a good place to start on vacuum tube audio circuits.

Do your homework and follow what the smart players are doing—improving your tone isn’t that elusive. If what you have sounds good to you, leave it alone. But if you know your amp’s tone could use some improvement, then start where it begins… the transformers. PG

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VG: Tell us a little about the background of Mercury Magnetics?

Sergio Hamernik: Although Mercury was founded in 1954 it was around 1980 that we fully recommitted ourselves to designing and building transformers specifically for tube-based electric guitar amplification.

Most of us know that by the late 1970s the audio electronics world was going solid-state. Although it now seems absurd, back then tube-based amplification was being abandoned. We were amongst a relatively small group of hold-outs. We were also acutely aware that if someone didn’t step in to preserve the technology that decades of know-how (not to mention the essence of tone) would be lost forever.

We put out the word about Mercury’s mission and immediately began to work directly with a select number of top players and amp designers who were like-minded.

VG: Who came knocking?

Sergio Hamernik: We were surprised that much of the early interest came from British artists. They had the resources and seemed to understand the transformer connection to great-sounding amps. But it didn’t take long for the word to spread. Soon artists from all over the world were bringing us transformers from their most prized amps to study and clone. The feedback from this period set the pace for Mercury and we haven’t strayed since.

Today Mercury’s friends and customers include pretty much the entire upper echelon of professional players and recording studios. In the builder community our friends range from the legendary Alexander Dumble and Ken Fischer, to passionate enthusiasts building amps on their kitchen tables. I’ve always been amazed at the caliber of talent we’ve attracted and the level of interest in our goals.

VG: How did Mercury determine which transformer designs had superior tone? 

Sergio Hamernik: Think of what we’re doing as transformer archeology — not unlike opening ancient scrolls for the first time. Over the years we’ve unearthed some real sonic treasures!

Artists and amp collectors continue to bring us transformers from their most coveted amps to analyze, restore, duplicate or upgrade. They’re hard-won converts because they’ve all tried other replacements only to discover that the magic was gone.

By tradition, transformers have always been hap-hazard and inconsistent in design and build quality. Many of these amps were the freaks, factory prototypes, or often with one-of-a-kind transformers that just blew everything else away.

These are the transformers we have always been most interested in studying. Unfortunately, when it came to analysis, we discovered that the conventional methods only gave us a piece of the puzzle. Mercury had to devise its own proprietary methods of determining what made these outstanding transformers sound so amazing. Their “recipes” if you will.

“… if someone didn’t step in to preserve the technology that decades of accumulated knowledge (not to mention the essence of tone) would be lost forever.”

It can take up to a week to properly analyze a single transformer. Aside from the need to catalog and replicate these gems, we’ve tackled these projects for other important reasons. What makes a great-sounding transformer tick is no longer mysterious. Prior to our research the engineering community did not fully comprehend the characteristics of a good electric guitar amp transformer. We’ve used this hard-won knowledge to look beyond the confines of conventional engineering to find the previously undiscovered rules behind the most desired electric guitar amp tones.

VG: If a transformer dies will a replacement change my tone? 

Sergio Hamernik: Until Mercury got involved if your transformer tanked there was a good chance that your sound would be lost forever. An amp tech could spend a lifetime fiddling around with caps, resistors and tubes and never find your sound again. The missing component in the equation was the transformers.

Oddly enough, duplicating build quality so that each and every transformer of a particular model, or period, sounds exactly the same had been a struggle in the past. Traditional manufacturing methods have always produced inconsistent-sounding transformers. Literally no two had the same sound. This only makes sense when you realize that few were aware of the transformer connection with tone. This also explains why the average amp tech uses random and generic transformers. They just didn’t know any better. The ability to buy an identical replacement transformer, or an upgrade for that matter, is a major breakthrough in amp tone — there’s no doubt about it.

There’s also a side benefit to consistent build quality that some players and amp techs are just beginning to discover. Mercury catalogs many design variations for all the popular amps. This means that you can easily and reliably experiment with the tone-enhancing qualities of other transformer designs and amp configurations.

VG: Why are transformer magnetics so vital to guitar amp sound?

Sergio Hamernik: Once you understand that generic “by the book” transformers can actually neuter your tone — the battle is over. Your choice in transformers opens the door to MAJOR tonal possibilities.

When you listen to all the different tube amps made over the years, it’s brutally obvious that the really bad-sounding variations had junky transformers (even though they were usually within design spec). We know this because when you simply replace the stock transformers with quality units they come alive.

There’s a curious phenomena associated with cheap magnetics — they tend to make an amp fatiguing to the ear — uninspiring to play or listen to. Boring, actually. With tonally dull transformers you just can’t get the other components to sound as they should. And the fun doesn’t stop there—inferior transformers result in amps that are unreliable, have a tendency to overheat, etc. You can easily identify them by their uninteresting, thin-sounding and harmonically anemic tone. Unless one is stone deaf, the sonic superiority of quality magnetics is obvious.

 “Once you understand that ‘by the book’ transformers can actually neuter your tone — the battle is over.”

It’s important to understand that the pioneers of the electric guitar amplifier and most of the techs that followed were self-taught. It only makes sense that much of what they came up with were results from happy accidents. But despite their trial-and-error methods with tubes, speakers, and other components, many of them misunderstood the role of the amp’s magnetics (transformers) as it relates to electric guitar tone.

Over the years there’s been an overwhelming number of hit-n-miss transformer designs used in guitar amps — even within specific models. Mercury has had the benefit of the rear-view-mirror, looking back over time, discovering what sounded great and what didn’t.

Mercury’s holistic approach has taught us that the unique nature of the amplifier seldom lends itself to just one ideal set of transformers. Can you imagine that for the Bassman sound alone Mercury inventories over 2,000 transformer combinations? The differences may be slight, but we cover just about every conceivable tonal and configuration variation for that model amp — factory, mod or custom built. And that’s just one amp line out of hundreds — Mercury’s growing library is approaching every amp ever made (including the odd-balls!), from 1948 to 2006!

Our current library consists of hundreds of unique transformer designs and their variants. Aside from vintage, we also have our enhanced next-generation Axiom designs. They incorporate many of the discoveries we’ve developed for even better-sounding, more inspirational amps.

VG: I understand Mercury has three separate electric guitar amp transformer lines? 

Sergio Hamernik: Everything we do has evolved from the real needs, wants and requests of our user base. Mercury’s products are all logical extensions of each other, but there are actually four separate offerings.

Mercury Vintage — our one-off service where we repair or restore otherwise valuable, usually vintage transformers. There are no modifications or enhancements added. These one-off restorations are ordered by players who are aware that their original (and valuable!) transformers are expiring but want to continue using the amp because they love its tone.

ToneClones are tonal duplicates of best-of-breed vintage amps. We have hundreds of designs and every one of them is from a stellar-sounding original. Indeed, it was our customers who helped to invent the ToneClone line. If you want to make your vintage-style amp sound as close as possible to the best-sounding amp of a specific period — you need to hear our ToneClone series transformers.

The Axiom series is a totally new concept in tube-based amp transformer design. They marry the best of the vintage-era and Mercury’s breakthrough discoveries. Axiom-ized amps give you more tonal “bloom” — vintage-sounding but more, a lot more. There’s a growing group of boutique amp builders, as well as tech-savvy players, that have been working with them. Of all the raves and testimonials we receive daily, the most emotional are those by our Axiom users. I’m particularly proud of the Axiom series because we believe they represent the future of tube-based amp designs.

And finally, custom transformer designs. Non-disclosure agreements prevent us from discussing our clients, but there are quite a few boutique as well as major brand manufactured amps out there with our custom designs in them.

“Think of what we’re doing as transformer archeology — not unlike opening ancient scrolls for the first time. Over the years we’ve unearthed some real treasures!“

All of our products are built like no other transformers in the world. We may be the only manufacturer who uses custom-formulated, American-made materials. Every single transformer is handmade, hand-tuned and tested by us before it leaves Mercury. Our proprietary processes and expertise are unique. We design and make every one of our transformers here in California — no work is farmed out to other countries.

VG: Where do we go from here? 

Sergio Hamernik: Our work is fascinating, and as our advertising reflects, we’re having a good time doing it. But we wouldn’t have gone through all the drama of creating these exceptional-sounding transformers if it wasn’t for the support and encouragement we’ve received from so many brilliant artists and passionate players. Their passion has fueled our drive.

We view Mercury is a catalyst — reintroducing what inspirational, non-fatiguing real tone is all about. We’re also confident that we’ve also raised the bar for the “old” guys who long for the tone they grew up with. Can you imagine playing modern equipment that sounds even better than you remember it did back then? It was transformer and tube-based sound that originally turned the world onto electric guitar tone — the tonal qualities you feel more than just hear. At Mercury we believe that transformers are the last key to the tonal puzzle.

Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/VGmag/VGbuilderprof06.htm

I have always had a passion for music and audio. Guitar tone through an amplifier aroused my curiosity early on because many of the design rules for hi-fi equipment didn’t apply to producing great guitar tone. In the case of vacuum tube amplifiers, transformer design has a significant influence on the characteristics of tonality. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of reference material available and many of the original designers have either retired or passed away. In the early 1980s my partner and I purchased Mercury Magnetics, a transformer design and manufacturing company, from one of the early pioneers who founded this company in 1954. Our close proximity to the Los Angeles recording industry gave us access to studio technicians and many well-known musicians. Out of necessity, and to meet the demands of this level of clientele, we had to develop precise, “no compromise” methods of documentation and assembly techniques to rebuild and replicate these transformers to exacting specifications. A past example of this was when a legendary guitarist sought our services to help solve a frustrating problem. A technician had replaced the original output transformer in his amp with a generic copy, which resulted in completely changing the character of the amp. Several breakthrough albums from the late 1960s and early 1970s were recorded using this particular amplifier, and the sound of that amplifier really had helped define his signature tone. Needless to say, most musicians are very concerned about maintaining the character and unique tonality of their amplifiers. We ended up rebuilding his original output transformer and we provided two additional clones as backup.

TQR:Are you referring to all types of guitar amps, or more specifically British amps rather than, say, vintage Fenders?

I think that in all guitar amps, regardless of origin or brand, you also supplying custom transformers to amplifier manufacturers. Our extensive collection of vintage transformer designs really began to take off at that point in time. The ongoing accumulation of the finest sounding examples we could find inspired our line of ToneClone® transformers.

TQR: What is it about those particular transformers that make them so special, and how do you evaluate them? Do you install them in an amplifier and A/B them, or is it done more or less on paper?

We do have the necessary test equipment and software to check various parameters, but ultimately the ear has to make that decision. We also plug in, play, and conduct A/B testing at our facility. I have a dedicated sound room at home that has been tuned for the purpose of testing and evaluating audio equipment. We are lucky, because the Los Angeles area offers us an amazing amount of guitar playing talent that continues to help us maintain a level of objectivity. Also, some of our best listeners are avid tone enthusiasts who work in and for the local studios. These people understand good tone and give us their experienced opinions.

TQR:And can you describe what it is that makes these transformers special? What would we hear, specifically?

Having a detailed transformer spec is only the beginning. Breaking down into fine details what materials and assembly techniques were used decades ago helps us assure our customers an accurate reproduction of vintage tone. We have carefully selected the best of new and old technology to put performance and quality ahead of economy. Our transformers are hand-wound and the cores are hand stacked. Some materials we fabricate in house, and others, like our steel laminations, are custom ordered. Because we build them one at a time, the Axiom and ToneClone series are only available in limited quantities. Consequently, there is an audible difference between a budget transformer and an Axiom or ToneClone.

TQR:Can you describe the audible differences?

A good output transformer should go beyond its job of impedance matching, and an amplifier’s overall personality depends on it. A desirable output transformer’s distortion has more detail. The harmonics seem even and smooth. Played clean, the transformer should sound natural without harshness, obviously within the boundaries of the authentic tone characteristic the player is eeking. Better said, we still can’t make an apple into an orange.

TQR: What are some of the comments that you hear from players when they hear the Axiom or ToneClone transformers that you build? Is it a matter of touch dynamics, harmonics, all of that?

Yes, and let’s not forget musicians’ colorful tone speak, such as: The amplifier sounds more open, glassy, sweet, brown, fat, with more notes perceived. Barred chords are not muddy or squashed. Chimes and bell tones are much more apparent. Good note separation, sustain improved, more definition, etc…

TQR:And these things can all be affected by the output transformer in some considerable detail….

It is pretty much the last tone filter in a series of components. Other factors like tube quality and speakers can play an important roll as well. Also, if you were to look at an amplifier circuit as a modulated power supply, then the quality of a power transformer and choke, if a choke is used in the circuit, also affects tonality. The ghost note phenomenon would be an example.

TQR:Like a few amplifier builders we know, you have taken the direct route of precisely replicating the materials and tolerances that comprised the industry standard decades ago…

I remember having a conversation with Leo Fender a number of years ago and getting a chuckle out of him as he told me how amazed he was that so much scrutiny was being given to how things were done in the early days of Fender. He said that they had taken what they were doing in the ’50s and ’60s so matter of fact back then. They were hardly thinking at the time that they were building future classics. They were trying to make an affordable, good sounding, quality amplifier while still trying to make a buck. Leo also mentioned that for reasons of cash flow and/or inventory problems, they would resort to using alternate vendors from time to time. They kept a careful eye on cost of materials, and their supply, rather than hand picking components with alleged magical tonal qualities.

TQR:They weren’t matching tubes, either. All of this can and does get out of hand, but when your rig sounds so good that you can get lost in the magic of it, as a player, wonderful doors can be opened.

Years of research led us to the conclusion that not every aspect of a vintage transformer needed to be copied. There were problems and limitations in their day, so why repeat them? We achieved better results by combining old and new technologies. Making the math work for the best tone characteristics together with improved consistency and longevity is the formula we chose to follow. There are a lot of vintage amps today with transformers that are going bad simply because they have aged. The tonal quality of the amp is deteriorating along with the transformer. Paper and certain types of varnishes used in these transformers tend to have hygroscopic properties. Moisture is absorbed over time, affecting the insulation system and increasing the chance for high voltage breakdowns. To make matters worse, the primary winding voltage is high enough to produce a corona effect whose ions help oxidize this insulation. Over time, reliability and tonality will suffer. Do you believe in transformer cancer?

TQR:That leads us to an interesting situation in which the original output transformer in our ’60s Pro Reverb died, and we noticed how much better the amp sounded when we had installed a new transformer, which was a commonly available unit sold by MojoTone. Now, the amp sounded great before the old transformer went out, but it sounded significantly better with the new transformer. I asked our tech and advisory board member Jeff Bakos if it was possible for an output transformer to gradually decay over time, dying a slow death while you continue to lose ‘tone’ in a very subtle fashion over years of use. Is that possible? It seems as if that was the case with our amp, which we had always considered to have a rather legendary vibe.

Not only is it possible, it is probable. Keep in mind that if high voltage insulation breakdown has started, there is no reversing it. Assuming that the transformers insulation system is intact, we have in the past reversed some tonal degradation in original transformers under controlled laboratory conditions. I’ve proven that point with my more cynical, high-end customers. One example of this is an amp (a Marshall JTM 45 or a Plexi – I forget which) that had been used in England for years and then brought over to the United States. The owner felt that the tone had decayed over time, seeming darker, lifeless, and the higher frequencies were less pronounced. We asked him to remove the transformer and all we did when he brought it in was to re-bake it in an oven to drive out the moisture. We then vacuum impregnated the transformer with our proprietary resin to hermetically seal it before the final bake. He put the transformer back into the amp and the results were pretty amazing… it became a lot brighter and more detailed from the upper midrange to the upper frequencies. I’m not recommending that anyone start baking their old transformers, however….

TQR: No, but it seems to be a fair statement to say that it’s possible that your good sounding old amp might sound significantly better with a new output transformer. At least that was our experience, and in hindsight, we didn’t realize what we had been missing.

That’s true. The tonal degradation I’m speaking about is very slow and gradual. Your results would be even better if you had used ToneClone transformers. Any of our transformers should outlast older vintage transformers because each are put through the same process during production.

TQR:Doesn’t it become particularly more problematic with amps like AC30s and Hiwatts, where repro transformers have typically been poor compromises at best?

I believe that Marshall, Vox and Fender, to name a few, are doing an outstanding job of building affordable vintage reissue amplifiers. When an owner of one of these fine amps wants to take his/her tone to the next level, they will usually consult someone like a Don Butler (Toneman) for example. Don is an expert in the field of amplifier upgrades and the art of tonal improvement. Don is also one of the key figures in this mini industry, which is similar to the aftermarket for automobiles and motorcycles. Much like an engine tuner, Don will replace transformers and other components in the signal path to give the customer an upgraded, outstanding sounding amp that comes much closer to capturing the original tone they were seeking.

TQR:Your website seems to be very comprehensive, but can you be contacted over the telephone for customers that either don’t see their amp listed or perhaps have additional questions?

Yes! Paul Patronete, an accomplished guitarist who has a good ear for vintage tone and heads our MI division, is happy to help those customers when I am unavailable. Our website is constantly being updated with vintage and modern transformer versions. We will probably always be two or three pages short of having all of the various models listed that people may be interested in. Of course, we can’t possibly list every one-off we’ve done. Another cool thing we offer are modern, updated versions of many of the classic transformers. We have added output impedance taps for many of the classic Fender transformers, which were never originally offered. For any make of amplifier, we offer various mounting styles from the original. We can, in addition, alter tonal characteristics to fit the unique needs of each customer.

TQR:Are you building transformers for many small builders?

Yes. If you own a high end, small production amplifier, there is a chance you will find a Mercury Magnetics label on the transformers. Some exceptions are when certain amplifier manufacturers remove labels in an effort to keep us and other vendors a secret. We do maintain a confidentiality agreement with all of our customers if this is their desire.

TQR:Schumacher was a primary supplier to Fender during the tweed era, and they are still operating, although we understand that you generally have to be capable of placing a fairly large order to get geared up. That seems to be a significant barrier to many would-be amp builders.

That company is doing a good job of supplying inexpensive transformers to a high volume market. When a lot of emphasis is placed on meeting price points, something has to give. The cost of labor and materials are logically their first consideration. The end result is a compromise, and who could blame them? Ultimately, end users will determine if the resulting tone is adequate. Someone who has paid several thousand dollars of their hard earned money for a “high end” amp is expecting to have something that excites their senses along with a build quality that justifies their investment. This is where we can assist the amp builder. It goes beyond Mercury Magnetics “sending in the clones.” We have made every effort to break those barriers by eliminating minimum buy requirements. We work closely with today’s designers and builders to provide them with a thoughtful, next-level approach to their signature tonal requirements.

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In late 2009 I had the opportunity to talk with Sergio Hamernik about the history of the Mercury Magnetics, how he became involved in making transformers for guitar amplifiers, and the difference a high quality transformer can make on your tone.

How did Mercury get its start?

The company’s roots date back to the early ’50s. Mercury was started by an old General Electrics transformer engineer who was working there pre-World War II. He then went on to do a bunch of design work for the war effort. And in the early ’50s, hung a shingle and became self-employed.

The name “Mercury” came out of his passion for Mercury cars, he always drove a Mercury since the late ’40s — he loved those cars — and eventually moved from the East Coast to the West Coast where he found that there was a lot of military and aerospace work. A booming economy in the early ’50s gave him a lot of business.

I met him in the 1970s when I was an engineering student and an audio enthusiast. Back then the electronics world was well into its solid-state “evolution,” and interest in tube gear was quickly disappearing. Not for me, however. I found myself in demand as a guy who knew about those “old things”; not only the math, formulas and specifications but I also had the “ears.” I could fix and keep the old gear running. So, I worked as a hired gun for a bunch of studio heads and pro musicians.

Typically when an amp’s output transformer blew. No one seemed to know any better so it was just swapped by whatever “factory” replacement or an off-the-shelf “equivalent” catalog transformer was handy. The invariable result was that the amp’s characteristic sound was gone. And no matter what resistors, caps or tubes were used, it could not be rescued or returned to its original sound. It was the transformers, it turned out, that were the key. The problem was coming up with a way to remedy the blown transformer replacement or repair that wouldn’t alter its tone.

To further complicate things, most transformer people I dealt with just didn’t want to bother with the music industry. For the most part the established electronics industry considered the needs and opinions of the audio and MI (Music Industry) communities as subjective, run by kooks, and occupied by people who didn’t know what they are doing. Audio and MI had always been considered the illegitimate stepchildren to the rest of the industry.

Out of pure necessity I had to got involved with transformer design and manufacture. As a customer of Mercury, they had built many custom transformers to my specifications — although we had many heated, on-going debates on the subject because the company owner hated audio! He never did understand what made guitar amp transformers tick, or how musicians thought and reacted to them.

That aside, he pestered me for almost a decade to take over the company because he felt I was the only one qualified. Eventually I did, and that was when Mercury got serious about the guitar amp connection. Sometimes you end up becoming an expert at something when no one else wants to do the job.

By the time I took the helm we were developing a really good and workable understanding of the relationship of transformer design to decent tone and how amps should behave. And around 1980 we began the long and arduous task of collecting and cataloging transformer specifications for every vintage amp, from all over the world. The deeper we dug, the more apparent it became that there were all kinds of factors that no one had previously suspected that affected guitar tone. And likewise, no one seemed to be paying attention to such things.

In turn, we invented proprietary technologies to aid this work. Even after three decades, we’re still innovating and discovering new things. From that fundamental research came our now famous ToneClone series, and later the Axiom line, which is probably the most significant advancement in toneful guitar amptransformer designs since the ’50s. Both product lines, we’re proud to say, have distinctly different niches in the annals of guitar amp tone.

We’ve not only cured the old transformer tone issues, but made it possible for musicians to upgrade their existing amps. And we’ve also made it possible for amp builders to reproduce amps of the same or better grade than even the most outstanding vintage amps of the past.

When did you become involved with making transformers for guitar amplifiers?

Back in the ’70s I worked for people on a one-to-one basis, usually under confidential arrangements, with certain rock stars that just didn’t want to be bothered by their names being flaunted around. What they want was their amps running right for recording, projects, touring, etc.

The problem was that when technicians would fix the amps they’d often loose their tone. It turned out that the culprit was the replaced output transformers. A changed output transformer would completely alter the character of the amplifier. So as I was the guy doing most of the work to resolve this issue, this expertise was brought to Mercury where we began a special division to cater to the guitar heroes.

Word got around rather quickly that Mercury was able to repair, rewind, and restore the original transformers and it just grew from there. The whole “Tone Clone” thing came from artists who had these amazing irreplaceable amps, amps that often made recording history. They didn’t want to take these amps on tour. So we came up with the innovative idea of cloning their original transformers that they’d fallen in love with. With the clones we could now easily make, for the first time ever, several identical amps for them. Or they would assign their techs to drop-in the cloned transformers so they would have, for example, six amps that would all sound the same as that first perfect amp.

These artists could now go on tour and not worry about breakdowns or theft, and keep their prized-originals back at home.

I worked with Ken Fisher, the whole Trainwreck thing, and a lot of the early boutique guys — and still do with Alexander Dumble. They preferred to keep things confidential and not let too many people know who their sources were because there were so few transformer designers that catered to the guitar amp market.

There was also a slow-but-steady dumbing-down occurring in audio and all that had been the post World War II momentum. Many of the ex-military components we’d been using were high tolerance parts, with mil-spec formulations of iron and copper and so on, that had been used to win the war effort. During the ’50s and ’60s we enjoyed the benefits of those high quality components at surplus prices. But by the late ’70s, and definitely in the ’80s, steel manufacturers started to change recipes to make the iron and other materials much more affordable.

You can hear the differences between a late ’60s Marshall, a late ’80s Marshall, and a Marshall today. A good listen will really help you to understand what changes took place. Unfortunately they made so many of those changes more out of economic considerations than anything else. The amps were loud but they seemed to be losing sight of the fact that their tone was disappearing — the “recipes” had been changed.

In addition to many other factors, the iron that Mercury uses is custom-formulated specifically for us. We buy enough of it to be able to dictate the exact recipe from the foundries. And all of our iron is literally from American ore processed right here in the USA. 100% American madeto the original specs. Are there drawbacks? Well, some of the iron rusts more easily, but that’s actually a good thing because rust is a natural insulator. But the opposite is also true. When you see a modern transformer with a silvery or a shiny core just know that they aren’t worth a damn when it comes to tone.

Can you tell us more about guitar amp transformer history?

Here’s an amusing anecdote that may help explain our case for guitar amp transformers: There’s a great deal of documentation, from back in the mid-’50s, where engineers, and other technical people, were writing really scathing reports on how awful the transformers were in the audio industry. Those darn transformers! When tubes were plugged into them there was a tendency to distort! And they couldn’t have any of that! Likewise with harmonic distortion — especially even-order harmonic distortion.

Many amp builders, techs and players, today, don’t understand that tubes were originally designed to run dead clean, linear, and be efficient voltage amplifiers. That the tone we’ve all come to know and love is caused by the transformers literally “irritating” the tubes into distortion.

Which is, of course, the whole point of what we are looking for in guitar amps. Back in the ’50s, they were fighting to get rid of those nasty distortion tonal characteristics. Now we embrace them. But that was audio – guitar amps were still in they’re infancy and yet to be realized. It took a generation or two of innovative musicians to take those “undesirable” tonal characteristics and create music; to work with distortion and make it into something musical.

Ironically, it was that no-distortion engineering mindset that ushered in solid-state, and why it was so openly embraced in the ’60s. It was solid-state electronics that eliminated the output transformer.

In the late ’60s, Vox went to Thomas Organ to have solid-state amps built. They were very proud of this state-of-the-art amplifier. Curiously, I met a few of the musicians from the late ’60s that were sponsored by, and using, those amps. The tone was so awful and unbearable that they used the enclosures but hid their old tube gear inside! As you may already be aware, the vacuum tube industry is alive and well, and we’re still waiting for the solid-state industry to catch up.

Part of the confusion is that musicians assume it’s the tubes that give them their tone. There’s a lot of synergy going on in an amp, and the tubes certainly contribute, but let me illustrate this another way. Did you know that there is what we call “output transformer-less” amplifiers in the HiFi world?

These amps basically parallel a bunch of power tubes together until they get down to 16, 8, or 4 ohms. There is no output transformer, so you literally connect the speaker directly to the tubes. If you ever get the opportunity to do an audio demo with this style of amp, you will find that while it works, it sounds nearly solid-state. The output transformer is what provokes a tube into giving the characteristics that we find desirable as far as tone. Audio engineers didn’t want the tubes to distort, as tubes are basically nothing more than very clean voltage amplifiers. But when you have a reactive element like a transformer, you irritate the tubes into harmonic distortion.

Therefore, the difference between a good and mediocre transformer is based on how it works and syncs with these tubes to produce the kind of tone or distortion we are looking for. It is not as easy as winding some wire around a steel core, if it was then we would not be having this conversation.

How does a Mercurytransformer made today compare to the transformers made in the golden age of amps (the ’50s and early ’60s)?

One of the biggest mistakes existing in today’s amplifier community, especially amongst hobbyists and do-it-yourselfers, is to blindly copy every aspect of a vintage amplifier hoping to get a piece of that golden tone. At best, this method still produces very random results. One of the key reasons for this is the often-overlooked missing transformer formula. A builder will fuss around with the tiniest of other details but completely miss how the transformers fit into the equation. In short, get the transformers right, then the rest is much easier. Here’s another look at theses deceptively simple devices:

For vintage-style transformers, Mercury starts by duplicating the transformer design, build errors and all. We use the best grade components like they did in the ’50s and ’60s. We wind every layer and every turn as if it were a circuit in itself. In fact, the diagram on the left shows an output transformer circuit equivalent. Most people would think it is an audio circuit. These things are fairly complex, and all the numbers have to be right in order to get the tone we want as musicians.

We really do follow the recipe to a point. Although we don’t repeat any of the mistakes or inconsistencies that were prevalent, but didn’t affect tone. For example, if you were into Fender tweeds or late-’60s Marshalls. To do this we would literally put the word out to rent or borrow dozens of amplifiers to find the one or two that had thesound, and dismiss the rest. There were typically many inconsistencies as well as “happy accidents” in the best-sounding examples we’ve auditioned. A lot of this has to do with the sloppy tolerances of the original transformers.

For our transformers we extract the best parts and virtues of the original best-of-breed transformers and remove all of the obstacles to tone. Perhaps just as important is that we adopted a “cost is no object” approach, making our transformers equal or better than the originals — and then add consistency. We now have this so finely tuned that if you bought a transformer from us five years ago, and then the same one today, it would sound exactly the same. You don’t want good batches and bad batches, which is precisely what made the original production runs vary so much.

Another issue is the so-called controversy between paper tubes and nylon bobbins. In the vintage years they used both. Some people think that somehow, some magical quality comes from using a paper tube winding form over a nylon bobbin. Tonally it made no difference at all. Paper tubes were widely out of tolerance most of the time because of how they were made. They would wind multiple coils on long sticks then use a saw or blade to cut off the various coils. In order for these long tubes or coils to come off of their winding forms they had to be conical. So this invariably meant that the first coil would be larger in diameter and the last coils smaller. As you can see, it’s easy to see why each of these inconsistently-made bobbins had a greater difference than the material they were made from. And there are other issues that occur over time, like paper has a tendency to disintegrate, collect moisture, etc.

When we switched to using nylon bobbins the tolerances were within 3,000’s of an inch of each other, as opposed to the wildly varying amounts found in paper tubes. If you were ever to take apart a really old transformer (pre-’70s) sometimes you’ll find wood wedges that are jammed between the paper tube and the core because that piece of paper was too wide and too sloppy to fit into the core correctly! They would force a wedge in there so the darn things wouldn’t rattle!

Which method, paper or nylon, made for the best tone? It’s the luck of the draw. We’re fortunate in that we have all these stars as clients who have these amazing-sounding amps. They went through the hassle of culling and choosing and picking the special amps that inspired them. The amps they recorded with. When we analyzed their transformers we sometimes found happy accidents or other little anomalies that would set a transformer apart from already sloppy tolerances of the standard production run.

There are little subtleties and changes from one transformer to another that make a heck of a difference tonally. So when you look online at our list of ToneClones, just know that they are from the hand-picked, best-of-the-best amps of their model and era. We continue this “weeding” process every day — and there’s apparently no end in sight. And that’s why, with some amps, we have several versions — each with its own tonal qualities — and others only a single set to choose from.

We use this process to establish new benchmarks. And you never know, tomorrow a new variant may arrive that totally blows away what we already thought was as good as it could ever get.

It is interesting that you take that approach to upgrading — the never-ending search for better-sounding benchmarks.

There is no real money or glamour in what we do, it is really all born of a passion for music. I come from a musical family, my Mom taught me as a little kid that music was a form of “food.” And that hasn’t changed. Everyone who works at Mercury is just in love with playing and listening to music, and we all believe that there is always some room for improvement or a way to raise the bar somehow.

Back in the ’70s and ’80s there wasn’t really a need for a company that designed and sold transformers to the public, so I stayed away from the general public for as long as I could and really only worked with professionals.

But at some point I realized that it was the average player who was getting ripped-off. Things were getting dumbed-down, the tone is slowly and steadily being vacuumed out of the amps. They were becoming duller-sounding, less interesting and more noisy. So, we decided to formally launch this product line so the average guy could have access to our technology. It takes an extreme amount of labor and effort it takes to build them to this standard. You know, even if someone wanted to buy 1000 transformers we would have to no-bid them because we really don’t have any way of doing things quickly.

Automation isn’t a practical solution. Everything we do is wound by hand, one at a time; it is the only way it can be done. Say you have 100 turns and 10 layers, well that would mean 10 turns per layer — that is how a machine would think of it. But what if a rock legend’s best transformer was 9 turns on one layer, 11 turns on the next, 7 on the next, 3 after that and so on, but the sum total ended up being 100 turns. Sometimes one layer can have a different winding style than the other; sometimes it is non-symmetrical meaning, if it is a push-pull, that one side of the primary doesn’t have the same turns as the other side. If that was the recipe that created the magic, we’d have to duplicate it. It’s just not practical to build machines to do that, so we end up having to do it by hand. It’s the proud old-school craftsmanship way of doing things. Something I think we could see a lot more these days.

We have a reputation for nailing tone. Our Fender transformers don’t sound like Marshalls, they sound like Fenders — and vice versa. In fact, we’ve become the industry’s new standard. If you were going to design or create a tube-based amp, it’s clear that we’re the folks to talk to.

Can you explain how a Mercurytransformer can improve an amplifier’s tone and how they outperform the stock transformers found in most amplifiers?

In designing toneful transformers specifically for guitars (and that’s all we’re talking about here, not necessarily transformers for HiFi or any other purpose), the trick is in the magnetic field and how it behaves. The nature and the speed with which the iron reacts to the changing of an alternating current, in an alternating magnetic field, is what makes tone happen.

If you have “slow” iron, you’ll have a dull, non-sparkly sound with no bell tones — no matter what you do with the amp it will always be kind of noisy and fuzzy.

Where others have tried and failed they’ve blindly followed generic transformer formulas without understanding that guitar amps are different animals. They’ve somehow missed that point despite all the evidence to the contrary. The fact is that transformers for guitar amps do not necessarily follow textbook rules.

Indeed, it should probably be noted that we’ve developed a whole new technology around transformer design specifically, and only for the guitar industry. And that these designs are essentially irrelevant to any other use. But Mercury is also in a highly unusual position. Our decades of transformer “vivisection” have revealed all manner of unconventional tips ‘n tricks to us. And we’re now the keepers of this new, but proprietary, technology.

I seriously doubt that we could have done it without the, let’s call it “archeological benefits,” of our observations. Decades of studying the good, the bad and the ugly of guitar amp transformers have revealed a great deal.

Nothing that I have found in the reissue market, transformer-wise, even resembles anything that was made during the “the golden age of tone.” They are unrelated. The inductance, magnetic fields — all of that is just completely different and far removed from the original designs and recipes. So there is no way that a reissue amp is ever going to sound vintage unless they bother putting in the right ingredients.

With our Upgrade Kits, for example we’re trying to show people that we can move forward into new sonic territory from where vintage designs and tone left off. And our Axiom series transformers are the definitive showcase for this technology. Their tone is just amazing.

To push the point even further, we don’t include any “voodoo” parts in our Upgrade Kits. With the exception of the transformers, the Kits use only common, everyday, and off-the-shelf components. And most of our Kits also include a Mini-Choke. When the circuitry is correctly designed a Mini-Choke will make a huge improvement in an amp’s tone because, in terms of its power supply, it changes the way the amp works.

A good guitar amp is only as good as its power supply. If you have a dynamic and moving power supply that reacts to the demands of the audio end you’ll get get great note separation and good bass dynamics. You start to hear chimes and other phenomenon, and even the harmonics between the strings like a “5th note.” What the heck is the “5th note”? In barbershop quartets, if they get their harmonies right, they hear the “5th note” which is basically a harmonic of all four singers. We are doing that with our guitars thanks to distorted amplifiers.

Where did the idea for offering an Upgrade Kit for amplifiers like the Champ “600” and Valve Jr. come from and who designed the Upgrade?

I designed all of the magnetics (the transformersandMini-Choke) and the general concept behind the Upgrade in league with Allen Cyr from the Amp Exchange. He is one of the most competent, finest amp designers I know of; there are only about five in the world that are true masters of the art — those who really know the math, how to read tone, how to listen to the subtleties of clean and overdriven sounds and tones, design circuits, and understand tube behaviors. As a bonus to those who appreciate this kind of thing, we always try to throw in some interesting tweaks and tricks that are unorthodox.

The idea is to spark some interest and perhaps get more people involved in tube-based amp tone and evolution. We expect some folks to study our Upgrade Kits, learn from what we’ve done, and take off into new territory from there. No one is offended by that.

But our initial concept was to take an inexpensive stock amplifier, one that cost no more than $100 or so, and modify it into a professional- or recording-quality amp for very few bucks. The Valve Jr. was the amp that gave us the inspiration for this project. Epiphone broke the mold with their little Valve Jr. amp. Out of the box it’s a remarkable value. So, although it was a bit of a challenge I thought it was interesting because we were not stepping on anyone’s toes — we were just taking something that already existed and designing an Upgrade Kit around it. A simple proof of concept that made the case of transformers and guitar tone. It just seemed like a cool thing to do. The project was validated when pro players began demo’ing our prototype amps — they couldn’t believe how amazingly great such a tiny amp could sound, it freaked them out, and they all wanted one of their own!

Our intention was to give the kid who was practicing guitar in his bedroom, whose parents are on a limited budget, REAL guitar tone. In a typical scenario, the parents buy a cheap little amp and guitar combo because they want to see if their kid will stick with it. But the kid doesn’t understand that the sound of the amp is fatiguing. He doesn’t understand why the amp doesn’t sound good. And he doesn’t realize that the amp is fighting him, tiring him out. I know that happened to me and so many of my friends when we were kids. Struggling with hard-to-play guitars and poor-sounding amps is probably the single-most reason so many budding young (and old) guitarists give up the pursuit of their dream. But some are rescued. One day they visit a guy, or hear someone play, who has the amp with the tone and with just the sweep a few chords they experience the “My gawd!!! I want to sound like this!” phenomenon.

That is what we’re trying to offer with these Upgrade Kits — where thetone is accessible to just about anyone. So they could have an amp that wasn’t dull or desensitized. An amp that allows them to make that real connection to the tone. Tone is not just about noise and volume, it is rather complex, and undeniably emotional.

At the LA Amp Show we had our Upgraded Fender Champion “600” running into a full Marshall stack. Here we had this little amp powering eight 12″ speakers and it sounded great. People kept asking to see the back of the amp thinking that we had somehow rigged up something, but it was just the little Champ “600” with our Upgrade Kit.

When you have a nice open tone it is not about counting watts because the window is so big and wide and the soundstage is so deep that it gives you the impression of more power. We are not putting out more power with the Upgraded “600” — but it sure sounds like it! It’s about opening up that tone window and giving you more.

It’s kind of like taking a radio whose volume is set to half way and having it placed about 20 feet away from you then bring it right next to your ear — the volume has not changed but you hear a lot more of its content.

One of the things we do when modifying a circuit is to lower the noise floor, which a lot of people overlook. Many amps, like the Valve Jr., have a nasty hum in standby. We had one that would just start to howl if you left it alone for a while! So whatever high noise floor it had would eventually feedback on itself and cause that noise.

Our focus is on inspiring people. We are trying to show people that they really can get great tone today, that there is no age that has come and gone. There is still a lot of fun things left to do with your amplifier when you are on the search for great tone.

Hearing how much these Kits improve upon the tone of the amplifiers, and how well thought-out they are, will a Mercury amplifier that is designed and built by you ever make an appearance?

No. We are a supplier of key components to the boutique industry and to several of the large amplifier companies, and that is a comfortable spot to be in.

There is no shortage of amplifier companies out there and it really is a conflict of interest if we were to start selling amps and transformers. I would rather stay out of it.

The whole point of the Upgrade Kits was an area where I didn’t see any conflict with the people who were in the amplifier business. In the end the Kits really represent a transformer demonstration. If you were to just show someone a picture of a transformer or even had one in your hand and tried to explain how much better their tone would be, no one would care — it’s a yawner. But when you build one of these inexpensive Upgrade Kits and you actually hear the difference that the transformers make, it really drives home our point that transformers are important, that they are the building blocks of guitar amp tone.

And in the end we do this because we love it, we really love what we do. We get to create all of these products that help people find their tone, and who wouldn’t what to do that?

Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/GuitarFixation/SHinterview/index.htm

Last month, we dropped off a toasted output transformer from a 1950 Vox AC15 with Sergio Hamernik and the team at Mercury Magnetics. From a suspicious pin-sized burn in the transformer’s outer paper insulation, they were able to determin probable causes for the transformers untimely demise. Then it was onto the rewind process! So, is it over for this amp’s output transformer?

VG: What goes into the process of rewinding a transformer?

We begin the restoration process with a thorough testing of the transformer’s electrical performance. Then we put the transformer’s insulation system through its paces – checking its integrity, making sure the voltages inside the transformer stay where they belong and not going wonky by arcing over to neighboring windings.

Consider these steps a weeding out process to find the proper candidates for restoration. If the transformer in question passes, then we return the transformer back to its owner or tech. Believe it or not, about 1-in-4 transformers we receive pass our testing! We offer free-of-charge transformer testing to anyone – all they have to do is cover the shipping costs. Some of these transformers are sent to us simply to make sure that all is operating well within specs – essentially for a second opinion.

We consider it a “sin,” a violation of our sense of professional ethics, to tamper with a perfectly good transformer. Rewinding or restoring transformers is a service born out of our passion for preserving tone at its highest standards. Properly rewinding transformers is a time-consuming and costly endeavor. The reality is that our rewinding service is not exactly a profit center. Who knows, maybe one day we’ll sober up and quit doing it altogether. But it does break our hearts when we find vintage transformers ruined by feeble attempts at rewinding by people who do not posses the necessary skills, or who do not have an interest in or knowledge of guitar tone.

If the transformer does fail our testing in any way, then we deem it unsafe to be put back in its amp. Now the process of rewinding begins. A large part of this process is akin to archaeology, or perhaps autopsy. We want to find out precisely how it was made and discover who or what killed it. So the first thing we do is remove the core stack and catalog each plate for original position and sequence. Check out the photo of your core completely apart and tagged. We did find some rust and will do our best to preserve it.

it. So the first thing we do is remove the core stack and catalog each plate for original position and sequence. Check out the photo of your core completely apart and tagged. We did find some rust and will do our best to preserve it.

We actually talked about that in an article we did back in the August 2009 issue of VG.

Yes that’s right. That patina of rust on the core of your transformer is an indicator of better quality iron that is ideally suited for guitar tone. The rust itself is working in league with the iron to assure that level of tonal performance. Modern day technology messes with the original iron processing recipes by adding rust inhibitors and other fillers. They’ve short-cut the more time-consuming and costly metallurgical processes – just like how auto makers are putting in more plastic than metal in their cars. Iron is an amazing magnetic conductor until it gets diluted or polluted with things that are better suited for non-audio applications. So if I had my choice, I’d prefer to play an amp with rusty transformers delivering the tone I want rather than an amp with pristine rust-free transformers that make the amp sound like it’s got a sock stuffed down its throat.

So the original core will go back in the transformer?

Yes. Since you have the right kind of iron core we’ll reassemble it the way we found it, then retune it to the original factory specs. If you were stuck with a transformer that had inferior core material, then we would suggest swapping it with Mercury upgrade iron.

It’s come to our attention that many current production transformers marked with “Made in the U.S.A.,” are actually using offshore materials, i.e. magnet wire and steel. More accurately they should read “Assembled in the U.S.A.” These self-defeating transformers are good candidates for our upgrades rather than rewinds.

Cores are the first component out and the last in during the course of restoration. An interesting fact: cores are never at fault when it comes to a transformer breakdown. The core is removed solely for us to gain access to the coil of the transformer. Taking apart the coil is a surgical process that begins our forensic investigation – like the crime shows on TV. Unpeeling a coil is quite revealing and will tell us the story of what happened. Under interrogation the coil always tell us the truth. A body of a man is wheeled in to the morgue. His wife insists that he shot himself while cleaning his gun – but the autopsy’s evidence proves otherwise. Now she’s under suspicion.

Well the coil of your transformer quickly spilled the beans. Remember that small black spot we noticed on the outer wrap of the coil? Sometimes there are innocuous blemishes in the form of spots that may appear on the surface of paper and are nothing to worry about. However, what we normally find in fried transformers is that the burn begins somewhere in the middle of the coil and works its way out – causing an exit wound. In your case the failure was not typical. Yours was an entry wound.

This is important because it indicated to us that it was killed by a sharp instrument that penetrated the outer insulation that broke through and severed two turns of the fine wire that make up ½ of your primary winding. Meaning that only one of the two power tubes was operational. The damage to the entire transformer was limited to that spot and only the very top layer of the magnet wire. Those broken wires were arcing across each other and taking advantage of the oxygen available from the perforation of the outer wrap to form that black spot. Further evidence to support these findings is the fact that the rest of the winding, all the way down to the bobbin, was unharmed.

This type of injury is caused by the usual suspects – the installer or remover of the transformer. The smoking gun possibilities are: the tip of a soldering iron, the tip of a Phillips screw driver… or rough handling (dropping or bumping the transformer against something sharp, etc.) with enough force to puncture it to cause such a failure. And finally, we cannot rule out beer as another possibility.

You can now relax. Your tubes and speaker are now ruled out as possible components of interest.

What gets burned out in a transformer that you’re actually replacing?

The magnet wire. When its insulation gets over taxed the fuster-cluck begins as the insulation system of the overall coil progressively losses its integrity (dielectric strength) and begins to arc or burn.

Can you ever rewind a transformer with its original wire?

We certainly wouldn’t do it. When the tires of your car are worn out, do you go out and buy used ones to replace them? Unless you’re a former stockbroker, what’s the point?

Magnet wire is not bare copper wire. There is a micro thin coating of plastic insulation that protects it from shorting. That very thin layer of plastic is susceptible to microscopic spider web-like cracking. And the process of unwinding the magnet wire virtually assures it’s going to get damaged.

Check out the photo of what the magnet wire from your transformer looks like after it was unwound. Does this look like something you’d want to put back in your transformer?

Has any of the machinery used for rewinding changed over the years?

Most of our methods and equipment for rewinding transformers we consider proprietary. So I’m going to stay away from specifics. However, the basic concept of winding equipment hasn’t really changed for over the last 100 years. Today, of course, we see more computerized machines. But we chose to stick with the gold standard of vintage equipment

Aside from ours, I’d be surprised if there is any precision equipment available that is dedicated for the sole purpose of unwinding/rewinding. Most attempts at rewinds today just use run-of-the-mill winding machines that produce, at best, haphazard results.

So if someone gives you a prized “mojo” tranny, do you have the capability of rewinding it exactly the way it was before?

You know I’m not a big believer in mojo. I maintain that all things to do with amps and their respective tone can be easily explained and reproduced, and dare I say it… improved. But yes, we do have the capability. We treat all transformers with the respect and the dignity they deserve. Most people in this business wouldn’t treat these transformers with such reverence. Likewise, they may not have any musical background or an appreciation for electric guitar tone. We’re more than just a transformer company. If the original transformer included magical “fairy dust” or whatever that made it sound unique and desirable, we wouldn’t overlook it or change anything. That’s our promise.

We must be doing something right because we receive mountains of mail, email and phone calls from players all over the world who thank us for giving back (or preserving) their amp’s mojo.

When you begin rewinding, are you using the same wire that was used in the ’50s and ’60s?

That brings up a couple of interesting and important points. First, Mercury is probably the only company in this industry that uses high-purity OFC (oxygen free copper) magnet wire made in here the U.S.A. – which we use exclusively because of its guitar tone (as well as our hi-fi audio) properties. This type of wire is clearly sonically superior and more consistent than the wire that was used in the ’50s and ’60s. Wire technology back then was limited to about half of the temperature and electrical performance of Mercury’s standards. As a result, transformers using our materials last longer, take more abuse, are sonically more revealing, and follow a closer musical path when over driven into harmonics.

The second point is that we, as players, would much prefer the original wire from the ’50s and ’60s to the offshore and south-of-the-border suppliers of magnet wire. We gave them a chance, thinking we’d save some dough for our customers. The tested results yielded dull tone, inconsistent batches with too many instances of insulation breakdowns. Not even up to the standards of the vintage wire. Further, in real life tests of putting amps through their paces, the sonic differences were quite noticeably inferior to the guitar players here at Mercury and the players working for the recording studios here in southern California.

Have you ever seen a negative effect of age on a transformer?

In some cases yes. Sometimes your ears may pick up on affects of transformer aging before you realize what is happening. Dark, dull and fuzzy tones with a general sense of lower output volume.

If anything suffers from aging it will most likely be core. There are two major contributors that cause a negative effect of aging and affect your tone. Before World War II the science of processing iron was not up to snuff. It seemed that it was difficult then to boil out residual carbon from the iron. We are carbon-based life forms that age. We also rely on carbon for dating or aging organic compounds. Even a miniscule amount of carbon left in the older iron causes it to age. As the iron core ages, the magnetic conductivity begins to poop out, slowing the transformer’s responsiveness with increasing losses. The result is less output with only lower mids breaking through.

During WWII there was a shortage of iron for the war effort. So many transformer companies, in order to survive the hard times, made their cores out of soup can sheet metal! Transformers made this way were naturally plagued the wrong kind of iron and harboring plenty of carbon to boot. Do not confuse iron with steel. Finally, when silicon was implemented to help force out the carbon from post war iron, transformer iron became much more stable. Stable enough to out last us all.

Another contributor to transformer aging comes from humidity. Amp owners who live in humid climates have noticed their tone changing over the years. This is especially true if their older amps had transformers built around paper tubes. Paper-bobbins have always run the risk of moisture absorption affecting and changing tone. Conversely, we found that amps built with premium transformers that utilize plastic bobbins weren’t likely to suffer tone degradation via moisture saturation. A couple excellent examples would be the original Partridge and Radiospares transformers from England. With all the fog and rain they experience, these transformers have held up quite well.

Maybe this explains why coating paper in wax was attempted early on? To verify that dew point (humidity) affected output transformer tone, we had transformers from amps made in the ’60s, that had never left the U.K., flown in. They were provided to us by some of the best legendary players their country had to offer. They knew what their amps sounded like originally.

We put their transformers (all with paper bobbins) through a dehumidifying process, then re-sealed them in a generous varnish dip and a full bake. All these guys freaked out and thanked us for giving them their original tone back! And one of the player’s even called with a personal thanks that we had reaffirmed that he had not actually suffered hearing loss! He said that as time passed he noticed less treble tones and a lot less note separation and definition. Note attacks seemed impeded. Other players also had this mistaken belief that their amps were getting too old to play.

Obviously this new transformer won’t be dipped in wax like some of the old experimental ones. What will you use to insulate it?

Well, I wouldn’t call your transformer new. It’s still a 1960. If we had restored a 1960 Corvette for you, does it change the year, make or model? Instead of a fresh coat of paint for the car, your transformer will receive a fresh dip of glorious varnish. A non-flammable sexy coat of see-through clear. Something that may last long enough to pass along to your grandkids.

What can I expect the tonal differences to be between the rewound transformer and the original?

It should sound as good as when it left the showroom floor in 1960.

Your only other option, as far as upgrading the tone, would be to try one of our ToneClones. These are copies taken from some of the finest specimen celebrity-owned and played “pick of the litter” amplifiers. And it’s likely that you’ve heard these transformers in action on your favorite recordings.

Have rewinds come back to you shortly after you’ve sent them out?

On occasion, yes. Installer error happens, and if you don’t find and fix the problem that caused the transformer to blow in the first place, you’re just setting yourself up for a repeat performance.

Another thing that’s fairly common is the use NOS tubes. Usually purchased from eBay. We had a situation once where a customer, after installing his rebuilt transformer, decided to re-tube his amp with 40-year-old American-built originals. As luck would have it one of the NOS tubes shorted and caused a different failure in the newly rebuilt output transformer.

Is a rewind in store for every old transformer, or will they go on forever?

No, not every old transformer will need to be rewound if taken care of properly. Perhaps most may outlast the “Iron Age” of guitar amplifiers which we’re living in now. The push for solid-state technology is tenacious enough to replace tubes/transformer-based amps in the long term (perhaps within the next 50 years?). Tubes may go but they’ll have to pry the transformers from my cold dead fingers before I’ll give them up.

We recently put transformers of all kinds, old and new, to the test by volunteering to help out the flood victims in Nashville. We offer to test and restore any flood damaged guitar amp transformer sent to us free of charge. We encountered some pretty nasty stuff. Yet, less than 5% of them needed to be rewound! (Namely, transformers with paper bobbin insulation, or amps that had been turned on before the transformers were tested.) Some of the transformers that came in were from amps that had been submerged in raw sewage for weeks! The odor was so fowl that we had to air them out, and the staff actually had to draw straws to determine who was going to work on them.

Talk about your shit jobs.

Man, you got that right! Ah, but there’s nothing like the fresh smell of varnish in the morning to help one deal with that challenge. We did manage to extract the moisture and reseal these transformers with varnish. The sacrifices you have to do to help out fellow musicians….

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A few months back, we restores a 1960 Vox AC15 to it stellar sonic signature. But as with all vintage amps, you never know when something might go on the fritz!

We had just tightened the last screw and powered up the amp to unleash some ear candy when – major bummer – there was a noticeable loss of signal. After a diagnostic check, everything pointed to the output transformer. So it was off to Mercury Magnetics and the meticulous mind of its founder, Sergio Hamernik, to re-wind this 51-year-old piece of harmonic history back to spec.

VG: So… is it all over for this output transformer?

Sergio Hamernik: Well, it appears that it’s given up its ghost. A major bummer to say the least! Replacing a transformer in a guitar amp is a similar feat to heart surgery. But it’s NOT “All Over Now Baby Blue” because we’re going to fix it. And when we do, it’ll likely sound better than the original.

This output transformer is an original, from 1960. The late 1950s into the early 1960s was a transitional period for VOX. And one in which their transformers were known to have various failure rates, depending upon which batch ended up on the chassis.

In your case, someone from the original transformer company had the bright idea of using low-cost wax instead of a varnish dip. No doubt to save their six-pence. To be fair, most transformer companies back then were somewhat ignorant to the unique demand placed on transformers by the guitar amp builders. As a means to inhibit rust on the iron core and also to fortify the insulation of the windings, the industry standard is to dip and bake transformers in varnish, NOT wax. And you know what happens to wax when it heats up!

When we originally opened this amp up, there was wax all over the chassis that had to be scraped out.

There is some merit to using wax if the component doesn’t generate much heat above ambient temperatures. Output transformers do not generate much heat by them themselves. Especially when they’re working within their design specs – even with the amp cranked. But what the original transformer maker failed to take into consideration was all the tubes packed in there next to the transformers on a limited size chassis. As you might have already experienced when you try to pull a tube from a powered up amp – they do get really hot.

Class A amps run hot because they’re designed to run wide open, no matter where you’ve set the knobs. Now enclose this or any amp into a box and you have created an ideal environment for a large temperature rise above room temperature. You can practically see the wax dripping off the transformer.

Plus, VOX amps are notorious for getting hot inside the cabinet anyhow.

Yeah, but VOX wasn’t the only company that stuffed wax transformers into their hot boxes. As we discovered during the course of rebuilding transformers from old Dynaco, Sunn, Marantz, and a few others, they tried this idea and had their share of failures, too. Using wax as an insulator would never fly today because it’s is extremely flammable. Is there such a thing as a nonflammable wax candle? Today’s amps though are probably the safest they’ve ever been.

How long did this wax-period last?

A few years of trial-and-error seems to have put a stop to that practice. The interesting thing is that among the first VOX amps built they used Radiospares transformers. Radiospares were extremely well constructed, varnished and expensive for their day. VOX amps with these transformers are highly sought after (“pre-wax debacle era”). However, I don’t believe VOX ever intended on using Radiospares for anything but prototyping and the earliest short-run productions.

Back then Radiospares catalogs were essentially England/Europe’s equivalent of the American Allied/Radio Shack catalog stores. We’ve run across a few early AC30s that came with their full compliment of Radiospares transformers. If they had failed it was due in part by operator error and not the construction of the transformers themselves.

It seemed that shortly after the Radiospares era VOX began to solicit other transformer companies. An early one that comes to mind was Parmeko. Based upon our forensic investigations, Parmeko seems to have been a low-bidder – which was clear by their rather feeble attempt to copy the Radiospares. Also, the Parmeko output transformers were dumbed-down with cheap materials and short-cut winding methods. Their transformers were in no way even close to the Radiospares quality, as their lack of tonality proved.

The engineering of the original Radiospares designs and workmanship are highly respected by us. They’re extraordinary, and for that time they really raised the bar – as demonstrated by Eric Clapton’s sound on the “Blues Breaker” album – a JTM-45 Marshall using the same Radiospares transformers!

What time period are we talking about?

This was during the first year of production for VOX of these amplifiers.

So… the output transformer in this AC15, is that a Parmeko?

No. It’s definitely after Parmeko, which once again marks another transitional period in the company’s history. Soon after Parmeko, VOX found another transformer supplier, Woden, a former military supplier who bid low to get the VOX order. Your transformer shows all of the tell-tale signs of it being a Woden.

Woden had some problems with quality and consistency. So the performance of their amps varied from transformer batch-to-batch. I wouldn’t be surprised if Woden was behind the idea of changing their production run to wax the transformers. Many amp players and collectors are quite fond of these Woden-era amps.

The Beatles era marked another transition for VOX. From Woden to Haddon, and Haddon is generally what people recognize when they think of that Beatles sound. Haddon was another former military contractor, but a step UP in build quality and consistency and probably cost from the Wodens.

If I were to purchase a vintage AC30, for example, I would look for the ones with Haddon transformers, although I still prefer Radiospares because they consistently give that benchmark tone. When the Beatles and the British rock seen took off in the early ’60s, VOX grew into a big corporate thing. At that point the Haddons were becoming just too expensive – so enters another transition in their transformer suppliers – a lower-cost company called Albion.

Although VOX saved money with Albion, their transformers created an interesting and more aggressive new VOX tone. Sadly, right after the Albion era the company went to Thomas Organ and shifted over to solid-state circuitry. And as we all know those were a part of VOX’s darker years.

The Albions do have a small group of followers that really dig that sound. But when I’m thinking “VOX” I’m really talking about the goose bumps that the Beatles era gave me with the Haddons. George Harrison had no problem overdriving his VOX amps into that unmistakable jangle and sparkle tone. Nor did Brian May with his signature thick and creamy textured sound.

For the record we have cloned Radiospares, Parmeko, Woden, Haddon and Albion transformers from that era and make them available in our catalog.

Did this transformer die because the wax had melted away?

Probably not. This transformer lost its wax at least 40 years ago. But even that’s okay. I have built amps and prototypes in the past where I used unvarnished transformers and they performed just fine. The main purpose varnish or wax is basically to coat the iron core. Rust proofing it because the better the grade of iron the greater the chance for rust to settle in. London fog didn’t help things either. Actually the coil’s insulation itself doesn’t always depend upon the use of varnish. So your transformer probably led its life mostly free of the wax, and it still performed well.

So why did the transformer die?

Transformers are not apt to commit suicide… no matter how poorly one plays the guitar. Transformers in general are not subject to the effects of aging. Instead, they usually die at the hands of others.Consequently, it’s almost always some outside operating condition or an offending part.

There are a few exceptions though. These come from some well-known and liked amplifiers that over the years have fallen victim to self-destructing transformers. Time bombs of a sort stemming from historically problem-laden transformer designs. More often than not inadequate internal insulation systems. An amp that comes to mind is the first generation of Marshall Majors. Their power transformers would frequently fail from voltage breakdowns. These transformers were a bit oddball since they didn’t appear to follow the build methods of the Drake transformers which are found in the 50 and 100 watt amps of the same production era. Jim Kelly amps another oddity, they came with power transformers with screaming high B+ voltages and an output transformer built with no insulation other than the coating on the magnet wire itself! I believe these were made by the now defunct Time Magnetics.Even the transformers from AmpegB15s are frequent visitors/patients to our rewinding / restoration lab. Since these transformers are in cans, and extremely expensive to repair, most clients choose our ToneClone replacements as upgrades in tone and reliability over the stock transformers. It’s only a matter of time, depending on how many hours are clocked on these amps, before we get that phone call. We see firsthand the failures of transformers like these that are designed without enough insulation to survive the demands a guitar player can put on them.

So was it something else in the amp that’s making the transformer work harder or the wrong way?

For your particular transformer we’re going to take a series of photographs showing you the rewind/restoration process from beginning to end. In the first photos we’ll show how we received the transformer from you. Take a look at the view of the bottom of the transformer. Notice that there is a tiny, pin-sized burn mark on the outer-wrap of the winding. This bothers me. It looks similar to a bullet entry wound.

Transformers in general can withstand a lot of abuse. But if there is something making the transformer work harder or the wrong way, then something in its operating environment has changed or failed leading to a breakdown. First of all, we noticed fresh re-soldering on the outside of the transformer. The only soldering that should take place are the lead wires to the terminals. There are very fine wires underneath the outer wrap that may get damaged from a lingering soldering irons. We prefer that people keep their dick skinners away from any original solder joints on the transformer.

With regards to your particular transformer we can narrow the problem down into three categories of investigation:

1. The condition of the components that connect to the input of the transformer.

2. The parts and connections that connect to the output of the transformer.

3. The possibility of rough or mishandling of the transformer

Could the transformer have failed from a shorted tube?

Not likely. A shorted tube failure will create a different witness mark on the transformer. A shorted tube usually causes half of the primary winding to light up like the heating elements of a toaster. Scorching a larger section of the input coil. Your transformer does not show any signs of that type of failure. Remember you still had some audio coming out of your amp. You’d be hearing crickets instead if the primary winding was shorted or melted.

On the speaker side?

I have a tendency to believe that it’s a voltage breakdown due either to a lack of load (no speaker connected), broken connection, or some defect or damage done to the winding itself. Another bit of evidence of course is that your amplifier had partial output – it wasn’t completely dead quiet.

Based on how you described the amp sounding it leads me to believe that the failure will be isolated to a small spot on the primary winding as opposed to the coil being completely burned. And I wouldn’t be surprised if the output winding still looks like new. Amps that end their life with noisy output generally don’t suffer from current (short-circuit) related problems.

That’s exactly what I heard when I turned on the amp.

Sometimes if you catch it on time by turning the amp off ASAP you have a chance of saving the transformer. If not, the transformer will eventually fry itself.

So the transformer didn’t see a proper load on it.

It probably was exposed to some form of open or partially open load or a connection. Which will cause out-of-control voltage spikes/arcs to take place beyond what the transformer’s insulation system is designed to withstand. “Transformers Gone Wild” is not a DVD I would recommend. There are no girls in it!

We can restore the transformer to better-than-new condition. But if you don’t find, fix or replace the offending part or bad connection that took it out to begin with before you re-install your resurrected tranny, you may to blow it all over again.

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It doesn’t take too much digging to find a laundry list of boutique amp builders using Mercury Magnetics transformers in their products. From Mojave Ampworks to Joe Morgan Amps to kits from MetroAmp, builders have found that Mercury knows their iron. While transformers rarely receive the same level of attention of NOS tubes, speakers, or even guitar cables, they are a major contributor to tone. Think about it—the power and output transformers are the start and end of the line with any amp.

Based in Chatsworth, California, Mercury Magnetics has been building transformers for close to 60 years. I recently had a chance to talk with Mercury’s Sergio Hamernik to dig deeper into their roots, find out what one can expect from upgrading their iron, and what sets Mercury apart. Prior to our conversation, I had the opportunity to witness the remarkable transformation of an Epiphone Valve Junior modified from stock to hot-rodded, using one of their transformer upgrade kits. Not only was it a noticeable upgrade, it was a revelation in just how important the role of quality iron in an amp is. But because it is the single most expensive part of any amp, it’s no wonder we see so many modern amp manufacturers skimp on the iron to keep costs down. Let’s see what the passionate, and often hilarious, Sergio has to say about his part of the business.

I’ve been seeing Mercury transformers in amps for at least a decade. When did you get into the amp scene?

This happens to be one of our most often asked questions. Even though Mercury Magnetics’ roots go all the way back to the early 1950s, there are guitar players who are only now discovering us. But if an industry insider like you has been aware of us for at least a decade, then I suppose it means I don’t need to lay off any of our sales and marketing staff.

I would attribute most of our lingering anonymity to the old days. Back then, most of our clients from the audio community preferred to keep us as a trade secret from their competitors and the press. The typical transformer-savvy amp builder also didn’t usually want to share the credit with us, or reveal what their “unique” technical advantage was regarding audio and tone. Consequently, we were asked to maintain a low profile and generic look for our transformers for quite some time. On occasion, a customer in the know will spot a small “MM” mark on a transformer from an older piece of gear, and ask if it’s a Mercury. Odds are that it is.

It was the guitar amp crowd that pushed us to go above ground. Now Mercury gives any electric guitar player or amp restorer a taste of what the pros were using, talking about in their studios, and amongst themselves. Many players have told us their amps increased in value when upgraded with Mercury transformers, and this became evident when insurance appraisers began to contact us for verification. However, it wasn’t until the mid-1980s when we began to market our services and various brands to guitar players.

For me personally, I got into the amp scene around the mid- to late 1970s. I just found it to be a nice way to relax from the strain of oversleeping.

Your website shows a large number of amp manufacturers you have replacement/upgraded transformers for. What are your best sellers and why?

There are so many different camps loyal to their particular amp brand, so it would be difficult to single out the best sellers. The best sellers are transitory and change from week to week because guitar amp players are a fickle bunch. That’s why we’ve built the world’s largest catalog of guitar amp transformers where nobody is left out.

But trends tend to follow their own dynamics. And the current worldwide trend seems toward smaller wattage amps—regardless of brand. Conversely, the 100-watt heads are not selling like they used to. Players are gigging with no more than 15 watts and a few pedals. Regardless of playing style, they’re doing just fine abiding by sound level restrictions and kicking ass with the tone we feel Mercury upgraded amps deliver.

These players really get the fact that an amp lacking in tone can’t be fixed with higher power or covered up with a gain mod. An amp that coughs out an asthmatic tone at 50 or 100 watts easily fatigues both music listeners and guitarists. But the audience will stay until the bar closes if the band plays well and sounds great—even with as little as a few watts going through the available PA system.

What can a guitarist expect to hear when upgrading their transformers in a newer amp?

An amp’s transformers are the most important component in determining the quality of amplified guitar tone. And it’s no coincidence that they’re the most expensive parts in an amplifier. Many of the newer amps just don’t have the same “overkill” factor with their transformers as the amps in the ’50s and ’60s. Why? Ignorance and a bean-counter mentality. What’s good for accounting isn’t necessarily good for tone from an amp. Sadly, the people making these decisions are probably not players themselves and don’t seem to realize the damage they’re doing to the industry.

It’s not unusual to find a current production amp with a power transformer running hotter than hell, even without cranking the amp all the way. Or having an undersized, cheaply built output transformer whose sphincter begins to tighten the moment the guitarist reaches for the amp’s volume knob. An amp built around anemic transformers yields only to dull, thin, noisy, fuzzy mids and mushy bass. That’s what makes your notes sound more like farts through a pillow. This overkill factor is probably the only edge that some of the vintage amps have over the newer amps.

We have made it our mission to duplicate the performance of the best original transformer designs of all time. In terms of amplified guitar tone history, these transformers represent the best ever produced. – Sergio Hamernik

Have you ever noticed how most newer amps often weigh less, sometimes a lot less, than the older ones? That’s usually the weight difference between the old and new transformer designs. There is a direct relationship between weight and having transformers that seem to stay cooler and “loaf around” with power to spare, until a player demands more from their amp. It’s like they are waiting around having a card game, waiting for the player to do something. The best vintage tone was born that way. Newer amp tone can be easily improved—if the builder follows some of the same ideas.

Upgrading with quality transformers gives a second chance to a new amp owner to make things right with their tone, by reclaiming that overkill factor. Assuming there are no issues with the amp’s circuitry like bad parts or worn out tubes, a guitarist should hear and feel improvements with the very first pluck of the guitar. They should expect to hear the notes more detailed with overtones, and a quicker and more immediate response to their playing. Clean notes will have less sonic collisions with noise and reveal more bell tones, chimes, etc.

When more distortion is required, the player will sense better control of crunch and when break-up begins to happen. The coughing and hacking that happens when a stock amp is pushed, will vanish with a transformer upgrade. It will be replaced with longer sustains and notes that reach farther. The amp will also sound closer and bigger than the power it puts out—and the bass notes will have a tighter, rounder bottom end. And when pushed, she will still be able to hold that quarter from dropping—no matter how tall her high heels—something most musicians are looking for.

It’s not uncommon for guitarists to report that it took a few weeks of playing to fully realize what they’ve gained in terms of harmonic richness. These players have typically played longer and felt more inspirational emotions sucking them in, as they have invested more time into relearning and becoming reacquainted with their amps.

Many players become very attached to the transformers in their vintage amps. When you create ToneClones or Radiospares and Partridge versions of these classic transformers, how close are they get to the originals?

Radiospares and Partridge are our brand specific clones, whereas ToneClones are “best-of-breed” duplicates culled from the hundreds of other brands that have made transformers over the years.

We have made it our mission to duplicate the performance of the best original transformer designs of all time. In terms of amplified guitar tone history, these transformers represent the best ever produced. In the grand scheme of tone pursuit, these designs are incredibility important and deserve to be considered treasures.

This is an ongoing project for us, spanning almost three decades now. And it couldn’t have been accomplished without the enormous amount of assistance we’ve received from top players and amp collectors around the world.

What about Axiom transformers? Where do they fit in?

The Axiom transformer line takes over where the limitations of vintage transformer design ended. No bean counters here—simply the sincere pursuit of answering the age-old question: What if there were no constraints on budget, time, or material quality to achieve the best possible performance? That’s our objective with the Axiom line.

Axiom transformer designs represent many new approaches—new tone with the best materials and designs money can buy, so they’re not intended for the timid or the low-budget crowd. Check out our FatStacks and SuperStacks for the Marshall DSL and TSL families for interesting comparisons.

Mercury’s vintage transformer restoration service has been gaining a reputation for quality work. Why would someone want to restore a transformer instead of replacing it? And vise-versa?

Some vintage amp owners prefer to pay the extra cost of our restoration services, because it’s very important to them that their amps retain authenticity. Collectables or rarities are valuable. They’re of the “why take chances” mind. The high road. But on the flip side, we have pro musicians who insist on touring with their vintage gear. To play it safe, and not sacrifice the tone of their original transformers, they have their techs replace the stock transformers with Mercurys. By doing this, they preserve the original transformers from road abuse while taking advantage of our reputation for tone, durability, and warranty. Restoration of vintage transformers is a tricky and highly specialized art. Sadly, too many of the great originals have been lost forever due to technically inept and musically disinterested people. We see attempts at “rewinds” here all the time.

Occasionally, it appears some people confuse “demolition” with “restoration,” and the preservation of the original tone is lost forever. There’s no shortcut to doing a proper restoration.

I understand you’re doing all of your labor and get all of your materials in the USA. How does that impact your business aside from just the straight costs?

Well, we figured that someone has to do it—and we really do make everything here with 100 percent American materials. There are plenty of products out there stamped with “Made in the USA,” but are actually assembled with non-USA, low-price materials. But yeah, we’re the real deal and proud of it.

Building transformers that make an amp sound good requires highly specialized technologies, highly skilled labor, and the right kind of materials. We love music and owe it to the players out there to do all the work “in-house,” so we can keep tight control over every aspect of our transformer designs. It’s really old-school military spec style, so our transformers don’t vary at all from batch to batch. If you need a replacement transformer 10 years from now, it’ll sound exactly the same as the one it’s replacing.

We’re hard-liners when it comes to not playing shell games with a musician’s hard earned dough and quest for better tone. Perhaps I’m a fool for doing it this way, but I was brought up in a musically minded family. From a very early age, I was taught that music is as important and necessary as food. If there is a day our services are no longer needed or appreciated, I’ll pursue my dream of owning a car wash in the valley, and get into the business of making money.

Any new or exciting projects in the works at Mercury?

Yes, but we’re planning on releasing the news sometime around summer. For quite some time, we’ve been fielding requests for accessories to accompany our transformer line. We’re being asked to apply our know-how to other aspects of guitar amps.

Do you have any advice for guitar players and techs in their quest for tone?

Don’t let anybody fool you—every player has the ability to discern the difference between good or bad tone. Unfortunately, there are a few too many self-styled “experts” who irresponsibly dispense advice without having a clue. As a result, we’ve all seen amps completely lose their tone by being modded to death.

There’s no excuse for the old “damn, I’ve done it this way for many years so it must be right” mentality. More than ever, it’s so easy to seek opinion, advice, and help online and elsewhere. I highly recommend the old textbooks from the 1950s and 1960s as a good place to start on vacuum tube audio circuits.

Do your homework and follow what the smart players are doing—improving your tone isn’t that elusive. If what you have sounds good to you, leave it alone. But if you know your amp’s tone could use some improvement, then start where it begins … the transformers.

Source: https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/Builder_Profile_Mercury_Magnetics